New Owner, 70' Fasty

[wdollie6]

This week went to NE PA to pick up a red 70' Fastback (at least on the outside) for $200 that used to be what I believe to be a 'deep sea green' at least based on 1970 brochure. While the outside is somewhat rough the inside is in fairly good shape. Cleaned/vacuumed out trunk/engine bay (saved original vinyl covering and insulation as it was perfect although wet ) to evaluate interior rust and was pleasantly surprised, minimal surface rust on visible surfaces. Moved to interior, removed rear seat bottom, old/dead Diehard battery and wet carpeting along with tar-board and found fairly immaculate floorboards, surface rust only. A first for me as I have replaced pans on every beetle, I own two (2). Unfortunately the rockers need replacement but pillars and floors look great.

The PO (for one year) had removed it from a dry barn, where it had been since 1985, into the environment without covering, hence the water intrusion, all glass seals had long ago dried out. The good news is that he saved anything he found and provided me with a box of parts and pieces that I will need to go through as most appear to be from engine; air cleaner and associated parts, shroud from fan housing to intake, lenses for lights, headlight housings, and misc. valves which appear to be for FI, etc..

A couple of early questions, sure there will be plenty more as I know nothing about FI. First and foremost need help opening the front hood as the PO apparently slammed it in an attempt to keep it closed. The vertical slider on the drivers side A pillar does nothing, assume at some point was attached to a cable that activates the latch, anyone have any thoughts as to how to resolve? Since the hood is in great shape don't want to destroy it by being too aggressive. When I first looked at the car several weeks ago the hood was open so won't be surprised by what is underneath, small rust hole under brake reservoir only issue i was able to see on my first visit (hole size will probably grow, nothing a patch and a welder won't fix).

Second question, how do I remove drivers and passenger seat? In a bug there is a spring tab which by simply depressing allows the seat to fully release, couldn't find that on the Fastback. By the way these seats slide back and forth with ease, adjustment knobs work as designed. Once I was able to sit in one, seat all the way back, I was very impressed with the space and comfort, something I can't say for my 72 or 66 beetle, at 6'2", 270 the bugs are a little tight, the bus on the other hand...

[wdollie6]

Third question, what would be the best way to remove the red paint, while keeping the below green intact?

[wdollie6]

Never mind on the hood opening question, I am an idiot, simply read manual and it explains release is in the glove box, just like 72 bug. Apparently I was sliding the knob for the foot well heater, never saw this type of fancy contraption before, doh. As embarrassing as installing by force and subsequently bending/jamming in engine wrong size fuel pump rod, Colin found this issue.

[tristessa]

Another Deep Sea Green/white interior '70 Fasty! I really, REALLY need to get cracking on mine...

For the red paint, try oven cleaner. The OE paint is tough stuff, re-sprays usually not as much. I've had it work wonders for getting off crappy rattle-can spray paint jobs.

[Amskeptic]

Never mind on the hood opening question, I am an idiot, simply read manual and it explains release is in the glove box, just like 72 bug. Apparently I was sliding the knob for the foot well heater, never saw this type of fancy contraption before, doh. As embarrassing as installing by force and subsequently bending/jamming in engine wrong size fuel pump rod, Colin found this issue.

Oh my GOD, really?? You were trying to open the front trunk with the footwell lever?
ColinTactfulAsEver

(great car, I'd love to see original color scheme again, but in Hunter Green small metallic with a proper "biscuit tan" interior with a white white white headliner, yummmm)

[wdollie6]

At least I looked for a non-destructive approach, i.e. reading the manual, my 94 year old father suggested a pry bar! By the way no one answered the question with regards to removing the front seats, hmmmph, thank you very much found that answer myself as well. In all reality another stupid question simply had to find the tabs next to the tunnel and wallah out they came, not even a smidgen of rust on the rails. The pans were also in great shape, the rockers/heater tubes not so much.

Found the two air cleaner pieces that were missing, elbow and fresh air connector, should have those in a few days. The keys I should have tomorrow, had them made based on matching door codes, crossing fingers that the ignition hasn't been changed. When I get back from my business trip will drain/pull the tank and see what lies inside and beneath. The tank has fuel (turpentine smell) in it so will be interesting to see the gunk that comes out. I will then move to changing all fuel lines and vacuum lines, followed by checking electrical connections, grounds, etc.. I did note that they had cut&spliced the three wires that come from the pickups below the distributor, with the twisted copper still visible, hmmm not sure that bodes well. Also they had piped a permanent fuel pressure gauge off the 3-4 side which definitely does not show up in the typical Type III engine photos...

I'll update as I dig in further. Should be able to hook a battery up next week at some point, which might prove to be interesting.

WayneWiththeThickSkin/Head

[wdollie6]

Actually can see the spliced wires in the top picture, just above distributor with green tape on them...

[wdollie6]

So with newly made keys in hand decided to test on doors first, worked perfectly, crossed fingers and moved to ignition switch... key worked great. So against better judgement connected a battery just to see what worked and what didn't; headlights, taillights, signals were fine, emergency flashers and radio a no go, didn't check wipers. Unfortunately, a no go on the starter so will have to dig into that one as well, hopefully disconnected wire or bad ground, we shall see.

Something new to me is that I hear a clicking when I turn the key, assuming a solenoid or relay something to do with FI? Came from under rear seat. So much too learn so little time to do it, especially with bus and bugs still needing love.

[Amskeptic]

So with newly made keys in hand decided to test on doors first, worked perfectly, crossed fingers and moved to ignition switch... key worked great. So against better judgement connected a battery just to see what worked and what didn't; headlights, taillights, signals were fine, emergency flashers and radio a no go, didn't check wipers. Unfortunately, a no go on the starter so will have to dig into that one as well, hopefully disconnected wire or bad ground, we shall see.

Something new to me is that I hear a clicking when I turn the key, assuming a solenoid or relay something to do with FI? Came from under rear seat. So much too learn so little time to do it, especially with bus and bugs still needing love.

You take good care of that car. The relay click you hear is the three-second prime that D-Jet gives the fuel pump!
Colin

[Bleyseng]

Yes, the fuel pump runs for 3 secs to build up pressure in the fuel lines (32 psi) so change all the fuel lines including the little pieces to the injectors with correct 7.3mm high pressure fuel line. Why? when you try to start it gas can spray all over the engine starting a fire as so many of these little cars did die from a fire.

[Amskeptic]

Yes, the fuel pump runs for 3 secs to build up pressure in the fuel lines (32 psi) so change all the fuel lines including the little pieces to the injectors with correct 7.3mm high pressure fuel line. Why? when you try to start it gas can spray all over the engine starting a fire as so many of these little cars did die from a fire.

We are working on a 1971 Squareback today. Resurrected the fuel pump last night . . . we think. Such a nice little car.
These cars have a tight engine compartment. It allows the "two trunks". Patience and deliberation is key.
Colin

[wdollie6]

Once I can actually work on the Fastback, too much patience no deliberation, first step will be to drain tank (something in there smells like turpentine) and clean/treat, replace fuel lines and determine status of pump. Will submerge pump in diesel fuel and attempt to run backward and forward, see where it takes me. Then will replace all remaining fuel lines (vacuum as well) around engine which will also provide initial education with regards to the injectors. Finally will return back to starter to determine why it doesn't react at all to the key, prob. something simple.

My guess based on current schedule demands is that none of the above will be completed by the time you arrive in August, mostly wishful thinking! If we have time during your visit you can educate me on some of the basics of the Type 3. She's in rough shape (rust belt vehicle) but much better than any of my other VWs when I first acquired. Already have the replacement heater channel/rocker assemblies and other misc. small parts that were missing.

[Amskeptic]

Once I can actually work on the Fastback, too much patience no deliberation, first step will be to drain tank (something in there smells like turpentine) and clean/treat, replace fuel lines and determine status of pump. Will submerge pump in diesel fuel and attempt to run backward and forward, see where it takes me. Then will replace all remaining fuel lines (vacuum as well) around engine which will also provide initial education with regards to the injectors. Finally will return back to starter to determine why it doesn't react at all to the key, prob. something simple.

My guess based on current schedule demands is that none of the above will be completed by the time you arrive in August, mostly wishful thinking! If we have time during your visit you can educate me on some of the basics of the Type 3. She's in rough shape (rust belt vehicle) but much better than any of my other VWs when I first acquired. Already have the replacement heater channel/rocker assemblies and other misc. small parts that were missing.

I look forward to seeing it. We can at least start it . . .
(edit. we at least did start it . . . viewtopic.php?f=77&t=13679#p230454 )

[wdollie6]

So fuel tank is out, drained and cleaned, (unfortunately have some pin holes to deal with), around 7 lbs of gooey tar like substance came out of the tank, most have been 1/2 full plus when it was parked. Fuel pump was soaked in diesel fuel overnight (actually 2 nights) but only ran sporadically after spinning motor in both directions, E2000 now in my hands and ready to install, now if I only could find the proper square fuel filter...

I have new fuel injection hose and FI clamps for reinstallation, is it necessary to reinstall the damper?

[asiab3]

…if I only could find the proper square fuel filter...
I have new fuel injection hose and FI clamps for reinstallation, is it necessary to reinstall the damper?

Note that the square FI filters for original Type 3 pumps have the same inlet and outlet size. About half the Type 3 cars I witness have converted to a bus-style pump with a larger inlet and normal 7mm outlet. Confirm which pump you have before ordering filters… ISP West sells them both if you can't find any local sources.

I would like to know the effects of the damper being missing; I just saw a hyper-original '68 Type 3 with original fuel lines and crimp clamps, and it did not have the damper like I am used to seeing. Anybody know if the damper came along later in the production run? D-Jet was still young that year… Either way, I would absolutely reinstall it. Smoothing out the fuel delivery to the injectors is a kindness to your engine.

Robbie