whc03grady wrote:Amskeptic wrote:HEY MITCH . . . . update?
The new one came, it doesn't have the pinch clamp thing that the old one does; it has a big flat hex nut instead. I'm not sure if they're equivalent. Also, how do I determine the length to start it at? I'm afraid the details of June 24th's pre-briefing has markedly faded in my mind.
The "big flat hex nut" is called a jam nut; it's similar to the "locking" nuts found on some dual carb linkages and it uses the same principle as "double nutting" to remove a stud. The nut locks against an object, and the clamping force of the nut makes the object unable to turn down the threads. It's cheaper to manufacture than a clamp, which is why it's on your new part and not the original...
For starting length, there might be a more "official" method, but I start by removing the old one without allowing the steering, suspension, or tires to move. You should be able to put it back in without touching anything. So you know the car is set up correctly. From here, put the fixed the tie-rod-style end in a soft-jaw bench vise and put the new one identically parallel next to it in the vise as well. Hold them horizontally (parallel to the floor) and adjust the new one to match the old one, all the while "sighting" the adjustable ends to get the new one as close as you can.
Now, the way the bus is shaped, you'll want the ends rotated 90 degrees in comparison to each other. Not 75*, not 100*. 90 degrees. Which means adjustments to the entire thing can only be made in "full turn" increments on the adjustable end. This is bad, because there is no finite adjustment. This is good though, because if you're off you're probably not far from good.
At this point, you can go for installation, and see how well the new one matches up with the bus which you DID NOT MOVE, right? If it isn't lining up, your vise work was sloppy, try again. If it does line up, make it safe, and find a long flat parking lot or runway to test your bus on. I do not know the state of your bus, but I do know the steering box must be centered, and the drag link is adjusted to make the wheels straight, THEN the steering wheel get's indexed. Do not shoot for "straight steering wheel" as your target unless you KNOW and have verified your steering wheel and steering box are BOTH correct.
That's how I did mine, and I did not notice a difference in straight-ability of the wheel or chassis. I also use a smidgeon of anti-seize on the taper of all tie-rods, as I don't want them rusting in place over the next few decades. I always have either the cotter pin correctly installed, or clean threads for the locking nut to work on.
Good luck, I hope the old one didn't re-welded itself on the eleventh day.
Robbie