Weber sprung a leak on the right port

Carbs & F.I.

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Amskeptic
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Re: Weber sprung a leak on the right port

Post by Amskeptic » Mon May 09, 2011 5:13 pm

steve74baywin wrote:
After five+ years of being proud (imagine that) at how smart and capable I was at keeping the FI system in my 78 Westy running, I removed it in 2009. I reflected on why "I" own, like and keep these vehicles. It was for the simplicity. The amount of times I had to look at the FI system in the 78 westy compared to the single carb in my 66 beetle or single weber progressive in my 74 bus was 100 times more. If a person takes the time to make the system like new, one could have many years of good use before he has to spend tons of time on it again.
I am not giving this one to you without a challenge.
While some have been flummoxed by the FI, many others here have had not a lick of trouble, never having had to rebuild accelerator pump diaphragms, replace vacuum breaks, find a new choke heater element, watch needle valves fill the crankcase with fuel, deal with throttle links that self-destruct like on the Kadrons.... fuel injection has maybe two moving parts. Replacing the temp sensor II takes five minutes and no adjustment.
:flower:
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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chitwnvw
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Re: Weber sprung a leak on the right port

Post by chitwnvw » Mon May 09, 2011 5:33 pm

Had the series resistor give out in the middle of a busy intersection though...

vdubyah73
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Re: Weber sprung a leak on the right port

Post by vdubyah73 » Tue May 10, 2011 1:05 pm

had a vacuum leak through the crankcase ventilation. sucked the right side valve cover gasket out of position. never figured it out till i put carbs back on, and discovered that without the fi crankcase ventilation sucking on it, it was a massive oil leak. only leaked at shut down with the fi. real happy with dual webber ict's almost set 'em and forget 'em. always starts right up. year round daily driver. temps get down into the single digits in the winter. i wish, in bitter temps, it would take a few more revolutions to start instead of just firing off at the touch of the key. i agree with steve74baywin on this one, too many parts made of unobtainium to make it practical for me.


steve74baywin wrote:If a person takes the time to make the system like new, one could have many years of good use before he has to spend tons of time on it again.
1/20/2013 end of an error
never owned a gun. have fired a few.

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ruckman101
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Re: Weber sprung a leak on the right port

Post by ruckman101 » Tue May 10, 2011 2:18 pm

I never once had FI issues on the '80 Jetta I ran into the ground. Thus I know nothing about dealing with any FI issues that come up here.


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72Hardtop
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Re: Weber sprung a leak on the right port

Post by 72Hardtop » Tue May 17, 2011 2:32 am

Amskeptic wrote:
steve74baywin wrote:
After five+ years of being proud (imagine that) at how smart and capable I was at keeping the FI system in my 78 Westy running, I removed it in 2009. I reflected on why "I" own, like and keep these vehicles. It was for the simplicity. The amount of times I had to look at the FI system in the 78 westy compared to the single carb in my 66 beetle or single weber progressive in my 74 bus was 100 times more. If a person takes the time to make the system like new, one could have many years of good use before he has to spend tons of time on it again.
I am not giving this one to you without a challenge.
While some have been flummoxed by the FI, many others here have had not a lick of trouble, never having had to rebuild accelerator pump diaphragms, replace vacuum breaks, find a new choke heater element, watch needle valves fill the crankcase with fuel, deal with throttle links that self-destruct like on the Kadrons.... fuel injection has maybe two moving parts. Replacing the temp sensor II takes five minutes and no adjustment.
:flower:


"never having had to rebuild accelerator pump diaphragms, replace vacuum breaks, find a new choke heater element"

No chokes on IDF's unless your a masochist. The IDF's don't come any better or simpler in terms of reliability & superiority. It will set one back $1500.00 min. to convert to FI. And it's not easy to find the parts for the old FI system if your in the middle of BFE. Weber parts are readily available. I've yet to have mine fail on me since 1988 new. I've rebuilt them twice since new. Once they are set up and dialed in you rarely ever need to toy with them.
1972 Westy tintop
2056cc T-4 - 7.8:1 CR
Weber 40mm Duals - 47.5idles, 125mains, F11 tubes, 190 Air corr., 28mm Vents
96mm AA Biral P/C's w/Hastings rings
42x36mm Heads (AMC- Headflow Masters) w/Porsche swivel adjusters
71mm Stroke
Web Cam 73 w/matched Web lifters
S&S 4-1 exhaust w/Walker 17862 quiet-pack
Pertronix SVDA w/Pertronix module & Flamethrower 40K coil (7* initial 28* total @3200+)
NGK BP6ET plugs
002 3 rib trans
Hankook 185R14's

72Hardtop
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Re: Weber sprung a leak on the right port

Post by 72Hardtop » Tue May 17, 2011 2:46 am

turk wrote:Was shooting gas onto the crankcase housing from the hole which I plugged with a screw and piece of rubber to get to drive it 100 mile back home with no incident. Image Thankfully, Indiana has awesome peopl,e willing to help in a pinch. I didn't have the screw or the rubber r the idea for this. Just some dude in a gas station a mile or two away did. :-)

If you feel around very carefully below the carb you'll find that lead plug. JB Weld is your friend. Be sure and clean the area very well before applying the JB Weld. Do this with all four of them. I find it's best to let the JB Weld set for 15 mins or so before actually applying. This way it won't sag.

Did you be sure and measure the float height with the gasket in place? This is important. No more than 3.5 for Webers in terms of fuel pressure. That brass inlet plug needs to be very tight. Otherwise it will leak. Be sure and use a mirror to look down the carb throats for fuel. You should not see any fuel drip-page from aux ports of the carb throats at idle or after shutdown. If you do see fuel that suggests either the fuel pressure is too high or float height is incorrect.

After you install the carbs it might help to tap the carbs on the side to help free a hung float. After having filled the bowls with fuel. It happens.

You should also not have to use any RTV sealant on the manifold gaskets. I don't even use it on the carb block off plate/s.
1972 Westy tintop
2056cc T-4 - 7.8:1 CR
Weber 40mm Duals - 47.5idles, 125mains, F11 tubes, 190 Air corr., 28mm Vents
96mm AA Biral P/C's w/Hastings rings
42x36mm Heads (AMC- Headflow Masters) w/Porsche swivel adjusters
71mm Stroke
Web Cam 73 w/matched Web lifters
S&S 4-1 exhaust w/Walker 17862 quiet-pack
Pertronix SVDA w/Pertronix module & Flamethrower 40K coil (7* initial 28* total @3200+)
NGK BP6ET plugs
002 3 rib trans
Hankook 185R14's

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