I swear it never ends...

[DurocShark]

This has been happening for a while, but I just diagnosed it today. :(

When cold the engine idles VERY low. Like barely above stall. It's perfect when warm. I finally decided to chase it down today while replacing the vacuum lines around the fuel pressure regulator.

It's the air regulator. What's it with me and regulators?

If I block the air regulator hose there is zero change cold or warm. Crap. It's stuck closed. And it's getting current when cold as it should. Worked fine until about a month ago.

I'm gonna pull it out and see if I can clean it to break it loose before I buy one.

Grumble grumble grumble.

So who's going to BBB?

[Randy in Maine]

Engine off.

Put your volt ohm meter on the AAR terminals to see what you are getting for internal reistance.

You want to see 30 ohms.

Might want to see what voltage the double relay is sending that way also.

[DurocShark]

I got 40 ohms, should be ok in and of itself. The connector lit my light, dunno actual voltage.

No, I'm gonna pull it and clean it. When I get a chance. Might not happen for a while. My weekends are pretty booked until BBB. And today I'm off to help Jason figure out his hard starts. Soon as the family gets out of the showers so I can get in...

[Amskeptic]

You can see the AAR rotating disk-with-window by looking through one of the nipples. If it is blocked, observe if there is any carbony black or tarry brown goop. If it is carbony black, you may have intake backfires pissing it off. If you have tarry brown, you may have a lot of oil coming in through the breather hose into the s-boot tht is getting sucked into the AAR. Carb cleaner followed by WD-40 does a good job of cleaning/lubricating. Keep the electrical end pointing up when you spray the carb cleaner, WD-40 doesn't matter. Do the freezer/stove trick to help free it up.
Colin

[DurocShark]

Good idea Colin, thanks. I haven't pulled him off yet. Shoot, he may not come off until after BBB depending on time. Only a problem when cold so no biggie.

Jason's bus seems to be running. I'll go post in his thread...

[scruffy]

Hey Skeptic,
Just how "Closed" should the AAR be? My guess would be absolutely NO air passing through when closed (warm) Correct?

You can see the AAR rotating disk-with-window by looking through one of the nipples. If it is blocked, observe if there is any carbony black or tarry brown goop. If it is carbony black, you may have intake backfires pissing it off. If you have tarry brown, you may have a lot of oil coming in through the breather hose into the s-boot tht is getting sucked into the AAR. Carb cleaner followed by WD-40 does a good job of cleaning/lubricating. Keep the electrical end pointing up when you spray the carb cleaner, WD-40 doesn't matter. Do the freezer/stove trick to help free it up.
Colin

[DurocShark]

Old thread resurrection! OH NO!!! ZOMBIESSSZZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Mine is visibly closed when it's cold. You can look through and see no daylight. However when warm I suspect it opens a bit. After the bus warms up the idle increases from 900-ish to 1100-ish.

[soulful66]

I may have a used AAR if you need one.
Best Regards,
John

[DurocShark]

Mine's fine, just a bit sloppy. Not enough to worry about. Bus runs awesome right now so I'm not touching a thing. heh

[Westy78]

Mine is visibly closed when it's cold. You can look through and see no daylight. However when warm I suspect it opens a bit. After the bus warms up the idle increases from 900-ish to 1100-ish.

This is the opposite of how the AAR should function. It should be open when cold to aid in cold idle and slowly close as the heater element warms and pulls the disc shut. In temps under 40° or so mine will operate for around a minute and you can hear the idle slowly drop to where I have it set.