I'm new to VW fuel injection systems. But this past Sunday, I picked up an over heated GD 007805 engine that included a FI system. During my upcoming Itinerant visit from Colin in June, it's our main goal to install this FI system onto a AW 023185 engine. My reasoning for this swap is because I believe that it'll be better tuned, more reliable, and a stronger running engine then my current set up of aftermarket Solex/Brosol carbs and their screwy pivot linkage.
So I thought I'd begin a thread to get help/document my preparation for Colin's visit. Hopefully, if all of the pieces are cleaned and in good working order, we won't get stuck on swap day because I forgot a part or I have a bad part.
So here's my new-to-me FI system.
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Last night, I began disassembling it.
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As you can see, everything is really cruddy. I was secretly hoping to forgo sending the injectors out the Cruzin Performance to save a few bucks but they look pretty bad. You can't tell it from the photo, but I can see that one of the injectors has some schmuck stuck up in the inside of the spray outlet.
Question: Is it safe to soak these injectors in a can of parts/carb cleaner? Something like this stuff? Would it hurt the plastic bits? What about the fuel rails and intake runners? Those should be ok to clean with this stuff, right?
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Fuel Injection Refresh - 1975 Bus
- BellePlaine
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Minnesota
- Status: Offline
Fuel Injection Refresh - 1975 Bus
1975 Riviera we call "Spider-Man"
- dtrumbo
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Mill Creek, WA
- Status: Offline
Re: Fuel Injection Refresh - 1975 Bus
When I sent mine in, they didn't look nearly as bad as yours (sorry!) and I felt it was money VERY well spent. I highly recommend it. Make sure you include your cold start valve ("fifth injector"). If nothing else, you'll KNOW that your injectors are clean and in good working order (you get a computer printout with the test results both before and after). Then if by chance your new-to-you fuel injection system has issues you can rule out the rebuilt injectors and continue on the path to finding/fixing the problem.BellePlaine wrote: [albumimg]3003[/albumimg]
I was secretly hoping to forgo sending the injectors out the Cruzin Performance to save a few bucks...
Welcome to the world of FI! You won't regret the swap!
- Dick
1970 Transporter. 2015cc, dual Weber IDF 40's
1978 Riviera Camper. Bone stock GE 2.0L F.I.
1979 Super Beetle convertible.
... as it turns out, it was the coil!
1970 Transporter. 2015cc, dual Weber IDF 40's
1978 Riviera Camper. Bone stock GE 2.0L F.I.
1979 Super Beetle convertible.
... as it turns out, it was the coil!
- BellePlaine
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Minnesota
- Status: Offline
Re: Fuel Injection Refresh - 1975 Bus
I think that you are right. I mean why go through all of this work just to cheap out on the injectors? I want to give my bus a fighting chance.dtrumbo wrote:When I sent mine in, they didn't look nearly as bad as yours (sorry!) and I felt it was money VERY well spent. I highly recommend it. Make sure you include your cold start valve ("fifth injector"). If nothing else, you'll KNOW that your injectors are clean and in good working order (you get a computer printout with the test results both before and after). Then if by chance your new-to-you fuel injection system has issues you can rule out the rebuilt injectors and continue on the path to finding/fixing the problem.BellePlaine wrote: [albumimg]3003[/albumimg]
I was secretly hoping to forgo sending the injectors out the Cruzin Performance to save a few bucks...
Welcome to the world of FI! You won't regret the swap!
1975 Riviera we call "Spider-Man"
- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
- Status: Offline
Re: Fuel Injection Refresh - 1975 Bus
Send 'em out. You really want equal spray volumes. Gives you time to clean all the rest up to our Itinerant Air-Cooled Standards.BellePlaine wrote:I think that you are right. I mean why go through all of this work just to cheap out on the injectors? I want to give my bus a fighting chance.dtrumbo wrote:When I sent mine in, they didn't look nearly as bad as yours (sorry!) and I felt it was money VERY well spent. I highly recommend it. Make sure you include your cold start valve ("fifth injector"). If nothing else, you'll KNOW that your injectors are clean and in good working order (you get a computer printout with the test results both before and after). Then if by chance your new-to-you fuel injection system has issues you can rule out the rebuilt injectors and continue on the path to finding/fixing the problem.BellePlaine wrote: [albumimg]3003[/albumimg]
I was secretly hoping to forgo sending the injectors out the Cruzin Performance to save a few bucks...
Welcome to the world of FI! You won't regret the swap!
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
-
- I'm New!
- Location: Hillsboro, OR
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
You will probably want all new fuel lines. You can get the hose at a local auto parts store. Make sure to get the high pressure hose as the FI systems runs at about 40 psi. I needed about 10 feet but you will want to measure all the hose and get that amount. Also, spend a little extra and get the good fuel line clamps. You want the solid metal ones with ears vs. the worm gear style with a slotted band. For the injectors, you can order new rubber seats from busdepot.com for around $5. A new fuel filter is a cheap buy also, around $6 at Napa (an auto parts store in Oregon) or other auto parts stores. I hope the install goes smoothly. Colin recently helped me out with my FI 75 bus and he knows his stuff.
- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
- Status: Offline
I meant to tell you (or did I already?) that your fuel hoses did not seem suitable. They appeared to be soft and balloon-y. I did not recall seeing the required nylon threads visible at the cross-section of the hose. They must have the dense nylon reinforcement visible at the hose ends. There are many outfits out there selling fuel hose to get the sale done, and they are not paying attention. You need a minimum of 60psi certified.AllensRiviera wrote:You will probably want all new fuel lines.
I buy modern hose at the German car dealers, it is good quality, ethanol resistant.
Also, the hose sections coming off your injectors need to be shortened so the fuel rails do not contact the sides of the engine compartment.
Ah memory, I used to have some.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles