82 Vanagon hunting cold idle ~ FIXED

bus71 · Post by **bus71** » Tue May 19, 2009 6:04 am

Our vanagon had a simular problem. temp. sensor 2 was loose. Tightning solved the trouble.

airkooledchris · Post by **airkooledchris** » Tue May 19, 2009 10:21 am

What is this hose and is it plugged up now?

On mine this hose has no connections, it just goes from the plenum to the FPR directly without this T in the line going seemingly nowhere.

Lanval · Post by **Lanval** » Wed May 20, 2009 4:36 pm

Kris,

That you spotted that is "sick" as my students would say.

It's actually the line to the deceleration valve. That big disk above the engine... mine doesn't work apparently, and rather than fix/replace it, the guys who built my engine suggested just blocking the line that goes to the decel. valve.

So that's what they did (waiting for Colin's wild teeth gnashing wails...), and yes, the hose is blocked off. I checked it to make sure there's no leak there. It's quite clearly at the FPG. I burned through today, and have a lot of grading to do, so I'll probably have to get back to this on Friday. When I do, I'll do a video showing the effects of the carb cleaner.

Thanks,

ML

airkooledchris · Post by **airkooledchris** » Thu May 21, 2009 10:23 am

That sort of makes sense, but you still have the other two hoses going to the decel valve connected. I ditched mine as well as it was the cause of my 'hunting idle' and maybe it still is the cause of yours.

What if you complete the process and disconnect and block the other two hoses going to/from the decel valve like this:

I got those little plugs at ACE for 20 cents or so each. Probably didn't need to put the clamps on, but just in case I did anyway.

Lanval · Post by **Lanval** » Fri May 22, 2009 10:06 pm

Kris,

I like your idea, but the current setup precedes the current problem, so it can't be the cause.

I haven't had the time to try the $7 replacement from the junkyard. tomorrow AM perhaps.

Best,

ML

airkooledchris · Post by **airkooledchris** » Fri May 22, 2009 10:11 pm

the problem is I don't know why that being left like that would be problematic, but anytime *ive* ever said "that cant be that cause" - it often was. buuuut, thats not to say it is here. it'd be nice, thats all.

Lanval · Post by **Lanval** » Mon May 25, 2009 3:05 pm

point taken. It should be fixed, anyhoo.

Wrapping up Spring term this week, will be able to spend some time on it, between panicking and looking for a job.

Best,

ML

Lanval · Post by **Lanval** » Wed Jun 10, 2009 7:56 pm

Follow~up:

Since I didn't have time to deal with this myself, I went to a local VW pro to sort it out and get the damn van smogged.

The problem was the intake manifold gasket on the left side; no surprise there, eh Colin? Since we did the right side last year, about six months after the engine was built.

The garage leaned the AFM way out, and then took it to the Smog station next door that they work with. Got it smogged, but not before another "gotcha"...

Now, in California, they do a pressure test on the gas tank, to make sure it's not venting fumes into the atmosphere. The same guys who did the engine (poorly) also sealed my gas tank (poorly); so that was re-done as well.

Sheesh. Anyway, I now have some time to fix a few things (like the vacuum hoses which should be replaced, and a couple of other things.)

Best,

ML/Lanval

Lanval · Post by **Lanval** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 8:34 am

Colin, et al. ~

I'm resurrecting this thread since the problem has resurrected itself; I'll check the intake manifolds (both sides) for leaks, and then on to other things. No commented needed today, I think, since I've done nothing.

The basics: van starts cold idles correctly for about 10 seconds, then begins hunting at idle, bouncing from 900-0. While driving it will die at stop lights when taken out of gear until engine temps exceed about 290. From 290-320 degrees it still hunts in the same range, dropping to near zero and stumbling before picking up again. At 330+ it idles essentially correctly, with some very minor hunting between 900-700 rpm.

Lanval

Post by **Amskeptic** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 9:22 am

Lanval wrote:Colin, et al. ~

I'm resurrecting this thread since the problem has resurrected itself; I'll check the intake manifolds (both sides) for leaks, and then on to other things. No commented needed today, I think, since I've done nothing.

The basics: van starts cold idles correctly for about 10 seconds, then begins hunting at idle, bouncing from 900-0. While driving it will die at stop lights when taken out of gear until engine temps exceed about 290. From 290-320 degrees it still hunts in the same range, dropping to near zero and stumbling before picking up again. At 330+ it idles essentially correctly, with some very minor hunting between 900-700 rpm.

Lanval

Likely a newly split vacuum hose . . . somewhere . . . just out of view.
Colin

Lanval · Post by **Lanval** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 11:39 pm

Blankety-blank vacuum hoses. I'm going to the MB dealer and getting scads of vacuum hoses. Replace 'em all.

Blankety-blank.

Lanval

Robert Berglund · Post by **Robert Berglund** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 9:07 am

I dont think you need scads of hoses, nor do I think you need to go to the dealer for the hoses.

Check out ratwells site for the correct size hoses and the legnth of hoses you need.

My 82 air (oil) cooled Westy had every imaginable hose replaced and I got them from Napa. Good German hose too.

The only vacuum hose I got from a dealer (VW dealer) was the wire reinforced brake vacuum hose.

Allthough its really not necessary I put a fuel injection hose clamp on all the fittings.

The hose from the crankcase breather valve over to the air-flow meter is a 21mm ID hose and even though you can use a 19mm ID heater hose and some WD40 to make it fit, I went with the correct size. The part number for that hose is N0203491.

That one might be hard to find but if you run into a jam, German Supply carries it, otherwise go with the 19mm ID rubber heater hose. Keep in mind the regular heater hose is not braided..the 21mmID hose is braided.

When replacing hoses its best to use the exact size, type (braided/unbraded). Same precautions apply to the fuel injection rated hoses as well.

Ask not what your Westy can do for you....but what you can do to your Westy.

Happy and safe trails.

Randy in Maine · Post by **Randy in Maine** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 9:58 am

Have you inspected the aux air regulator?

Lanval · Post by **Lanval** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 2:43 pm

Seem to work when I checked it awhile ago, but not sure, I guess. In this case, I left in the van on a day with 100+ ambient temps. Opened up. Took it out in the shade, closed down to a pinhole.

So it's changing, but truthfully that doesn't mean anything. Since I don't know how big/small the holes are supposed to be, the fact that it's adjusting doesn't tell me much.

I don't recall it being this big, but then it was only at 130+ degrees or so in the van...

http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/servl ... ator1a.jpg

They're kind of expensive so I don't want to just order one. Before someone says it, no I will NOT put that thing in an oven I use for food, in order to test it. The residual chemicals on it are not for eating...

I'm going to spend some time over at Ratwell, and with my Bentley to see which sizes I'll need.

L

Randy in Maine · Post by **Randy in Maine** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 5:39 pm

Use a hairdryer.

Great read here....

viewtopic.php?t=6867

Itinerant Air-Cooled

Itinerant Air-Cooled

82 Vanagon hunting cold idle ~ FIXED