1970 Bus Front Floor Replacement
- Snap
- Getting Hooked!
- Location: Newberg, Oregon
- Status: Offline
1970 Bus Front Floor Replacement
Here are a few photos of the drivers floor replacement. I will continue to post updates of the progress I make this weekend.
This is the hole that the riveted aluminum patch covered.
Here's a closer look at the hole, the rocker is to rotted out. Looks like a new one needs to be made.
More of the floor removed. Notice just to the right is more swiss cheese needs to be removed and replaced with a sheet metal patch.
This little section will need a patch.
Slowly pulling the spot welds that held the floor to the wheel well. Also need to pull the master cylinder to keep fires to a minimum when welding the floor back in.
Formed up a new piece an tried to TIG weld it in and it did not work well at all. I got a MIG now and had no problems running a good bead.
I do not know if this post should go here or not. I thought I would start participating and post my projects in case anyone would have any questions for me.
This is the hole that the riveted aluminum patch covered.
Here's a closer look at the hole, the rocker is to rotted out. Looks like a new one needs to be made.
More of the floor removed. Notice just to the right is more swiss cheese needs to be removed and replaced with a sheet metal patch.
This little section will need a patch.
Slowly pulling the spot welds that held the floor to the wheel well. Also need to pull the master cylinder to keep fires to a minimum when welding the floor back in.
Formed up a new piece an tried to TIG weld it in and it did not work well at all. I got a MIG now and had no problems running a good bead.
I do not know if this post should go here or not. I thought I would start participating and post my projects in case anyone would have any questions for me.
-Snap
'70 Type II
9 Passenger
1641 DP
Solex- 34 PICT 3
'70 Type II
9 Passenger
1641 DP
Solex- 34 PICT 3
- hambone
- Post-Industrial Non-Secular Mennonite
- Location: Portland, Ore.
- Status: Offline
Re: 1970 Bus Front Floor Replacement
That is one lucky bus.
http://greencascadia.blogspot.com
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
your brand new leopard skin pillbox hat
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
your brand new leopard skin pillbox hat
- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
- Status: Offline
Re: 1970 Bus Front Floor Replacement
Yes, this is the place. Feel free to run commentary with each picture, pointing out any problems or victories as you go along.
Colin
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
- Snap
- Getting Hooked!
- Location: Newberg, Oregon
- Status: Offline
Re: 1970 Bus Front Floor Replacement
I have a sheet of 16 ga witch is a little easier to work with since the oxidized original 18 ga does not take much heat to fuse so it give you somewhere to concentrate your heat without blowing through the material.
The master cylinder has been removed.
I made my own rocker panel from a cardboard pattern I made prior to removing the original.
Top view. New rocker welded in.
After cleaning up the welds on the rocker, it is time to patch that hole. I started by again, using cardboad to make a rough pattern. The more accurate the pattern, the less time on the bench grinder it will take to make the piece fit.
With enough times back and forth between the bench grinder and the rocker, I finally got the piece to fit. Formed the piece on a vice and a body hammer. There is a gradual slope in the corner of the lower rock, the vise made it really easy to also put a twist in the patch. Tack in and weldout.
I like to use an abrasive flap wheel on the 4". It really give the surface a nice surface. However, the do take a lot more material off than you would expect.
When I tried smothing the surface of the patch off the right of the main replacement floor board, the disk actually ate through the original material and had to fill it back in with the welder. Grind some weld and bondo the rest to fill if you want a smooth finish. I don't know why I care so much in this case becasue the mat will hide it anyways.
After I complely welded the floor in from the top side, I welded the underside also to keep moisture from getting beween the two layers of material. With a light shinning down on floor, I could double check all my welds to make sure there were no pin holes from under the vehicle. In order to hide the welds in the rocker panel, I filled in the divits left over after the weld was smoothed out with Bondo.
I primed and painted the floor. I will apply many layers to form a thick durable surface. I will also seal the underside, as sugested, with a rust inhibiting paint.
I got most of this done but I am going to need a die grinder with a knureld bit to get in that tight corner to smooth the welds out. I don't think I could have done this without removing the door.
The master cylinder has been removed.
I made my own rocker panel from a cardboard pattern I made prior to removing the original.
Top view. New rocker welded in.
After cleaning up the welds on the rocker, it is time to patch that hole. I started by again, using cardboad to make a rough pattern. The more accurate the pattern, the less time on the bench grinder it will take to make the piece fit.
With enough times back and forth between the bench grinder and the rocker, I finally got the piece to fit. Formed the piece on a vice and a body hammer. There is a gradual slope in the corner of the lower rock, the vise made it really easy to also put a twist in the patch. Tack in and weldout.
I like to use an abrasive flap wheel on the 4". It really give the surface a nice surface. However, the do take a lot more material off than you would expect.
When I tried smothing the surface of the patch off the right of the main replacement floor board, the disk actually ate through the original material and had to fill it back in with the welder. Grind some weld and bondo the rest to fill if you want a smooth finish. I don't know why I care so much in this case becasue the mat will hide it anyways.
After I complely welded the floor in from the top side, I welded the underside also to keep moisture from getting beween the two layers of material. With a light shinning down on floor, I could double check all my welds to make sure there were no pin holes from under the vehicle. In order to hide the welds in the rocker panel, I filled in the divits left over after the weld was smoothed out with Bondo.
I primed and painted the floor. I will apply many layers to form a thick durable surface. I will also seal the underside, as sugested, with a rust inhibiting paint.
I got most of this done but I am going to need a die grinder with a knureld bit to get in that tight corner to smooth the welds out. I don't think I could have done this without removing the door.
-Snap
'70 Type II
9 Passenger
1641 DP
Solex- 34 PICT 3
'70 Type II
9 Passenger
1641 DP
Solex- 34 PICT 3
-
- IAC Addict!
- Status: Offline
Re: 1970 Bus Front Floor Replacement
get some of this and spray it into your voids after welding. Even if you have to drill holes and then plug 'em. Stick an air gun in there too, really get that stuff moving around in there.
http://www.dymon.com/product_images/image_79.jpg
http://www.dymon.com/product_images/image_79.jpg
1/20/2013 end of an error
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
- Snap
- Getting Hooked!
- Location: Newberg, Oregon
- Status: Offline
Re: 1970 Bus Front Floor Replacement
Is this to inhibit the rust from forming between the two untreated pieces of material?vdubyah73 wrote:get some of this and spray it into your voids after welding. Even if you have to drill holes and then plug 'em. Stick an air gun in there too, really get that stuff moving around in there.
http://www.dymon.com/product_images/image_79.jpg
-Snap
'70 Type II
9 Passenger
1641 DP
Solex- 34 PICT 3
'70 Type II
9 Passenger
1641 DP
Solex- 34 PICT 3
-
- IAC Addict!
- Status: Offline
Re: 1970 Bus Front Floor Replacement
yes, welds are prone to rust, the metal around the weld changes due to the amount of heat and also becomes more prone to rust. All the original paint sealant burns off around the weld as well. water will get into the voids, it just does.
1/20/2013 end of an error
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
- Hippie
- IAC Addict!
- Location: 41º 35' 27" N, 93º 37' 15" W
- Status: Offline
Re: 1970 Bus Front Floor Replacement
Cool thread, Snap! You go guy!
vdub is right. The crystaline structure changes with the welding and rust is next. I use 3M Rustfighter 1 myself. (from Carquest).
vdub is right. The crystaline structure changes with the welding and rust is next. I use 3M Rustfighter 1 myself. (from Carquest).
- Snap
- Getting Hooked!
- Location: Newberg, Oregon
- Status: Offline
Re: 1970 Bus Front Floor Replacement
I understand that the heat affected zone around the weld changes the metallic crystalline structure to become more martensitic, but what I don't understand is why would I put oil all over a surface I want to paint? It makes more sense to use a product that is a sealant like paint to cover the surface that has been recently been welded. What I think I am going to do in this case is prime and paint the top of the floor, prime and Zero Rust the undercarriage, and open up the pugs in both rockers and spay that open gear and wire rope oil and blow it around in the open crevice to stop any further oxidation. I know the rocker I did so much welding on is defiantly going to need a good coat inside, it got a lot of heat during the process.
-Snap
'70 Type II
9 Passenger
1641 DP
Solex- 34 PICT 3
'70 Type II
9 Passenger
1641 DP
Solex- 34 PICT 3
- Sylvester
- Bad Old Puddy Tat.
- Location: Sylvester, Georgia
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
Re: 1970 Bus Front Floor Replacement
Hey Snap, where did you get the replacement?
Up, up the long, delirious, burning blue, I’ve topped the wind-swept heights with easy grace. Where never lark, or even eagle flew. And, while with silent, lifting mind I've trod, The high untrespassed sanctity of space, Put out my hand, and touched the face of God.
- Snap
- Getting Hooked!
- Location: Newberg, Oregon
- Status: Offline
Re: 1970 Bus Front Floor Replacement
Hey Sylvester,
I bought both a left and right side from a friend of mine who originally got them from Wolfsburg West for his '72. The left panel I replaced fit very nice and made with the same gage material. I did however have to tack and form the panel a bit with a body hammer.
I bought both a left and right side from a friend of mine who originally got them from Wolfsburg West for his '72. The left panel I replaced fit very nice and made with the same gage material. I did however have to tack and form the panel a bit with a body hammer.
-Snap
'70 Type II
9 Passenger
1641 DP
Solex- 34 PICT 3
'70 Type II
9 Passenger
1641 DP
Solex- 34 PICT 3
-
- IAC Addict!
- Status: Offline
Re: 1970 Bus Front Floor Replacement
I meant in the voids. the areas that end up all boxed in once the welding is finished. the black oil/open gear lube will creep and seal with a rust inhibition you would want in a void. Don't forget to get an air gun in there at the same time you spray. It will blow the stuff into seams and back down to the surface you are spraying through.
1/20/2013 end of an error
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
- Snap
- Getting Hooked!
- Location: Newberg, Oregon
- Status: Offline
Re: 1970 Bus Front Floor Replacement
vdubyah73 wrote:I meant in the voids. the areas that end up all boxed in once the welding is finished. the black oil/open gear lube will creep and seal with a rust inhibition you would want in a void. Don't forget to get an air gun in there at the same time you spray. It will blow the stuff into seams and back down to the surface you are spraying through.
OK, that makes more sense. I will do that. Thanks for your advise! I will also, as sugested, drill a hole on each end of the enclosed void space, blow that stuff throuh. Thanks!
-Snap
'70 Type II
9 Passenger
1641 DP
Solex- 34 PICT 3
'70 Type II
9 Passenger
1641 DP
Solex- 34 PICT 3
- Hippie
- IAC Addict!
- Location: 41º 35' 27" N, 93º 37' 15" W
- Status: Offline
Re: 1970 Bus Front Floor Replacement
You used a big word.Snap wrote: ...martensitic...
That looks nice, bro. Good job!
- Sylvester
- Bad Old Puddy Tat.
- Location: Sylvester, Georgia
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
Re: 1970 Bus Front Floor Replacement
How thick is the metal on top of the rocker?
Up, up the long, delirious, burning blue, I’ve topped the wind-swept heights with easy grace. Where never lark, or even eagle flew. And, while with silent, lifting mind I've trod, The high untrespassed sanctity of space, Put out my hand, and touched the face of God.