Door locks

[Ritter]

I couldn't stand it anymore. Insert key. Turn [grimace], apply a bit more pressure [question: will today be the day?], turn, ack! open. Whewh! One more time gaining access to the interior of the beast without snapping the key off.

I pulled the locks, handles and the Rube Goldberg device that keeps the door closed or allows access, dependent upon which lever is operated in combination with the others. Degreased. Did I mention the PO (original owner) had big furry dogs? No? Well, the evidence was all over the 32 year old grease. Gads, no wonder they didn't unlock.

Cleaned, lubed and a new lock cylinder installed on the driver's side, my doors now open from inside and out, with and without the key. Thanks to Karl (who is still keeping buses alive) for providing the lock cylinder and keying it to code. I now only have one bus key instead of two.

For those who've wearied of the lock battle, I encourage you to give it a try. It's like buttah.

[chitwnvw]

A bid difference, right? Very satisfying.

[JLT]

Cleaned, lubed and a new lock cylinder installed on the driver's side, my doors now open from inside and out, with and without the key. It's like buttah.

My experience exactly. That old grease just turns into stuff like candle-wax after a while. Ain't it a pleasure to have locks that work?

[sped372]

Our locks work well, unless someone tries to open the front doors while they're locked. Then you either force the key or go in through the slider and pop it from inside. I seem to remember reading a procedure about fixing it somewhere or the other but we rarely lock the doors so I haven't bothered.

[Oregon72]

UUUGGGHHH!! Same thing, my front door locks are horrible. slider and rear hatch are a dream!!! Gotta jiggle the key and same deal as Sped-

[sped372]

Here's the procedure I was referring to for the record... anyone done it?

http://type2.com/rvanness/lock.htm

[Sylvester]

Here's the procedure I was referring to for the record... anyone done it?

http://type2.com/rvanness/lock.htm

I read that proceedure years ago, I may do this soon but have to find those springs.

[Ritter]

Here's the procedure I was referring to for the record... anyone done it?

http://type2.com/rvanness/lock.htm

Yup. That's what I dune alright.

[BellePlaine]

Dismantling, cleaning, and rekeying the door handles is a fun late-winter job. The inner workings of the barrel lock is pretty interesting too; I especially like how the little brass fingers all find their proper places when the key is inserted. Those fingers look sorta like Pez candy only with a rectangular hole in the middle. I was glad to clean up the whole operation because it was all pretty gummy inside and the inner-outside of my door handles had a bit of over spray from three paint jobs ago.

So, is the preferred lubricant for the barrel lock a bit of graphite?

[Amskeptic]

Dismantling, cleaning, and rekeying the door handles is a fun late-winter job. The inner workings of the barrel lock is pretty interesting too; I especially like how the little brass fingers all find their proper places when the key is inserted. Those fingers look sorta like Pez candy only with a rectangular hole in the middle. I was glad to clean up the whole operation because it was all pretty gummy inside and the inner-outside of my door handles had a bit of over spray from three paint jobs ago.

So, is the preferred lubricant for the barrel lock a bit of graphite?

I use WD-40 followed by a ploof of graphite powder followed by a quick insertion of the key. I do not use graphite on any lock like those found in Lexi and BMWs. The chance of shorting out the $297.98 door lock actuator position switch theft-deterrent lock-out over-ride sensor contact limiter switch . . . . is just too great.
Colin

[static]

I use WD-40 followed by a ploof of graphite powder followed by a quick insertion of the key.

How much of a ploof? A big ploof or a little ploof?