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Removing a Ratty Starter

Posted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 1:05 pm
by Lanval
taking some comments about the visual state of my starter together with a recent starting issue (occasional non-start) I had a few hours, and luckily an O'Reilly's nearby that stocked the starter.

For review, here's the rusty, rat-peed starter of old. Be glad you cannot see the large number of rat poops sitting on top of the transmission :?
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The bottom nut came off easily, but the top bolt wasn't so easy. It is a hex bolt, which threw me (why two different types of bolt/nut combos on a single part?), but fortunately I have these, which made getting that second bolt off easy:
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Here's the old and new starter together. Turns out the old starter wasn't OE; it was a Bosch remanufactured starter, done sometime in the 90's. New starter is an "Ultima" (O'Reilly's/Kragen house brand) with a lifetime guarantee; remanufactured in China.
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Putting the new one back in was pretty easy. I had to turn the starter a bit to get it slot in. Fit perfectly; well almost. The post for the positive connector (the bronze post at the top of the new starter) was just slightly smaller than the Bosch, which made getting the connectors on difficult. The nut isn't quite flush with the bolt, which I would have preferred; however, more than half the threads are on, and it seemed pretty solid. Since that nut isn't really carrying any weight, it should be OK. A few sweaty moments, though, figuring out if it was going to work.
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Fired right up ~ starter now clean and functional. Possibly more dependable too.

I did come across a question. This is a pic of the tail end of the shifter linkage/line. The part between the end and the circle/guide was covered in old, dried grease. I cleaned it off, and put new grease on, but it seems like there ought to be a boot or something covering that section... is that the case? Or is this section meant to be open as shown here?
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Coming up next week ~ Bercilak hacks the cooling pipes with a single whack of his axe!

Mike

/edit/ I couldn't figure out what that copper piece attached to the new starter was for, so I set it aside. Some reading about another starter question, and I figured it out ~ it's the bushing for the starter. So I ask, Oh Colin-San: Must I go back in and swap the bushing?

ML

Re: Removing a Ratty Starter

Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 7:12 am
by Amskeptic
Lanval wrote: So I ask, Must I go back in and swap the bushing?
No. If your old bushing was not horribly galled, it ought to be still serviceable.
Did you grease the end of the starter shaft or the bushing before installation????
Colin

Re: Removing a Ratty Starter

Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 7:16 am
by Lanval
Amskeptic wrote:
Lanval wrote: So I ask, Must I go back in and swap the bushing?
No. If your old bushing was not horribly galled, it ought to be still serviceable.
Did you grease the end of the starter shaft or the bushing before installation????
Colin
No, and there wasn't any grease on the old one to suggest it was necessary. I will remove and grease Monday. At that time I will check the bushing.

Mike

/edit/ In my own defense, the Bentley is unbelievably terse on this topic. Two pages cover the removal and installation in a syncro; 1 page only for the rest of us, which covers installation only; the page mentions neither the bushing nor greasing the starter. Finish your book, Colin. Help me out here! Please!!

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ML

Re: Removing a Ratty Starter

Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 6:33 pm
by Amskeptic
Yes, a little bitty bit of grease on the end of the starter shaft where it inserts into the bushing is good.
Big honking shovelfuls of grease glopped in there is bad
... when they get flung into the clutch disk.
ColinInChicago

Re: Removing a Ratty Starter

Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 9:22 pm
by satchmo
Regarding the tail end of the shift rod, there isn't any boot or cover between the rear rod bushing and the arm that goes up to the transmission input lever. You just need to grease that area occasionally. You may want to replace the boot and re-grease the junction between the arm and the input lever if your boot is torn (looks like it in the pic). Be nice to the accordion shaped boot on the input lever; the original part is NLA and no aftermarket replacement exists to my knowledge.

Tim