1974 Super Beetle - Won't Start

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Sluggo
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1974 Super Beetle - Won't Start

Post by Sluggo » Sat Mar 27, 2010 10:34 am

I've narrowed it down to either the starter switch or the solenoid. I think it's the solenoid because if I whack it gently with a hammer a few times it will start (sometimes). Any suggestions on how to make sure before I buy & install a new one?
:vwgauge420:

1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
------------------------------------------------------

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dtrumbo
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Post by dtrumbo » Sat Mar 27, 2010 12:02 pm

Turn the key to the 'on' position and then AFTER MAKING SURE THE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL AND THE HAND BRAKE IS SET, crawl under the car and jump the terminals on the solenoid. If the car starts, and you can repeat this experiment multiple times with the same result, the solenoid is fine and either the switch is bad or you have a loose connection.

Since you say the hammer-whack does the trick sometimes, I'm suspecting a sticky solenoid, or just as likely, a loose connection on the solenoid. Make sure they're all clean and tight before you spend any money.
- Dick

1970 Transporter. 2015cc, dual Weber IDF 40's
1978 Riviera Camper. Bone stock GE 2.0L F.I.
1979 Super Beetle convertible.

... as it turns out, it was the coil!

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Amskeptic
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Post by Amskeptic » Sat Mar 27, 2010 7:17 pm

dtrumbo wrote:Turn the key to the 'on' position and then AFTER MAKING SURE THE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL AND THE HAND BRAKE IS SET, crawl under the car and jump the terminals on the solenoid. If the car starts, and you can repeat this experiment multiple times with the same result, the solenoid is fine and either the switch is bad or you have a loose connection.

Since you say the hammer-whack does the trick sometimes, I'm suspecting a sticky solenoid, or just as likely, a loose connection on the solenoid. Make sure they're all clean and tight before you spend any money.
Bad solenoids, unfortunately, can be inspired to behave after electro-shock therapy. There is no definitive proof of anything with the "bridge the contacts" method of starting the engine. It merely gets the engine running.

If the no-start occurs when the engine is warm, and it starts reliably when cold, you can be sure the solenoid is the culprit. The BobD gave me a no-start at a gas station in New Mexico at 1:15AM this morning. Electrical connections and switch are pristine. Solenoid.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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Sluggo
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Post by Sluggo » Mon Apr 05, 2010 9:35 am

Voltage regulator. Saw an article where the guy mentioned the same issue. The VR is going out and not charging the battery enough to start, but it is charging enough to show 12volts. It's just barely under the line. Jump start & replace the VR and all is good.
:vwgauge420:

1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
------------------------------------------------------

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