1967 Sandrail (Beetle) Won't Start

[mcmatt]

Hopefully someone here can help me figure this one out because I am at wits end.

First off, The Patient- It's a home-assembled sand rail that's been sitting 10 years likely because the previous owners couldn't get it running either. All casting numbers seem to indicate the engine is a '67 Beetle powerplant. Intake is stock though the "car" does have you standard "bundle of snakes" unmuffled exhaust, perfect for a little payback to my neighbor with his collection of bad tempered, hyper-vocal Rotweillers.

The Doctors- My friends and I are not completely mechanically inept. Oer the decades we have restored and hot rodded all manners of cars from muscle cars to Model As, from snowmobiles to monster trucks.

Diagnosis and treatment to date:

All four cylinders have good compression

Plenty of fuel to the carb.

Nice fat blue spark to all four cylinders.

Fresh tank of high test gasoline

Valve train seems to be operating normally...no broken rocker arms etc.

Since this miserable buggy refuses to start I have done the usual when dealing with an unyielding problem; I've thrown money at it like I hate the stuff.

New parts include; distributor with points, condenser, rotor, cap, wires etc. New carb. New fuel pump. New coil. New battery. New zillion candlepower driving lights on roll cage (No, I didn't think they would help it run any better....I just figured a little jewlery might convince the car to run)

Present condition: It just doesn't want to run. It has started on more than one occasion but quickly stalls out. One time we had it running and idling for five minutes and there was great rejoicing at which point it grew petulant again and went back into hibernation. At which point there was much cursing and hurling of tools.

When installing the new distributor we verified engine was at TDC and the little mark on the flywheel was in the notch at the top of the engine.

Based on the numbering on the shroud here's how we attached the plug wires: (Imagine you are standing behind the vehicle beer in hand scratching your greasy chin wondering why it won't run)

3 1
4 2

Wires are attached 1,4,3,2 starting clockwise from the right rear terminal on the cap. Points are gapped at .016 (have tried everything from .010 to .025)

Latest troubling symptom: During the periods it does manage to run there is large amount of white smoke coming out of the breather. No smoke coming out of exhaust to indicate bad rings or valves.

I can't figure out what to try next. The local priest says exorcism of automobiles or something appearing to be somewhat automobileish isn't part of the cathecism.

Some questions:

The wires coming from the two electrical connections on the carb...which side of the coil should they be hooked to?

Do I have the firing order correct?

What's the deal with that white smoke belching out the breather? Plugs still look good though they indicate a slightly lean mixture.

This is driving me nuts. Several years ago we bought a '73 Beetle we use as a field car. It had been sitting a decade but we recharged the battery, dribbled a little gas in the carb, turned the key and it was running. It has run ever since and taught every kid in the neighborhood how to operate a stick shift and do tail out power slides in the mud. It has never required so much as new plugs. When we bought the buggy I figured it would be as simple. Any help greatly appreciated as right now I am frustrated enough I am thinking on dragging thing into the neighbors yard to allow his dogs to use it as a chew toy.

[Amskeptic]

Hopefully someone here can help me figure this one out

Sniff the white vapor if you can get enough action to generate it.
Also slap a vacuum gauge on any access below the throttle plate.
If you are certain of #1 firing position, verify anyway!!! Put it at #1 firing, pull the left valve cover and tell us right here that #3's valves were at overlap. i.e. exhaust is closing while intake is opening and vice versa as you move the engine with a wrench around the TDC #1.
Colin