Need Help Fast! Alternator/Brake Light On & Low Voltage
- Sluggo
- Wishin' I was Fishin'
- Location: Portland, Or.
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
Need Help Fast! Alternator/Brake Light On & Low Voltage
A few days ago my alternator light & brake light started coming on when I'd first start up but went away after a minute.
Yesterday morning when I started her up she wouldn't stay running. Seemed like no fuel getting to the carbs and the lights were on again. In addition, the volt meter only read 12v (normal is 14v). After several attempts she held an idle. Then when it warmed up the lights went out and the volt meter read 14v. Went fine all day until I got a block from home and the lights came on again and the meter read 12v again.
This morning I had the same problem again. This time the lights came on a few miles later and the volt meter went back down to 12v. Still made it where I was going. When I went to leave a few hours later I made it one block and the engine shut off (lights on and 12v). Tried starting her up again and it seemed like I wasn't getting any fuel. Went back and screwed around with the wiring and she started up again (lights on and at 12v from now on). Made it another block and she shut down once more. Same thing. Started her up a few minutes later and made it about 1/2 a mile before it stalled. Waited, started again and made it home.
Once home I checked all the wiring to see if I could find any breaks or shorts. Nothing. Changed out the Voltage Regulator and no changes. Made sure all my wiring between the battery, starter, voltage regulator, fuel pump and ignition were good. I did notice a grinding sound coming from the alt while running.
What do ya think? Time for a new alternator?
Yesterday morning when I started her up she wouldn't stay running. Seemed like no fuel getting to the carbs and the lights were on again. In addition, the volt meter only read 12v (normal is 14v). After several attempts she held an idle. Then when it warmed up the lights went out and the volt meter read 14v. Went fine all day until I got a block from home and the lights came on again and the meter read 12v again.
This morning I had the same problem again. This time the lights came on a few miles later and the volt meter went back down to 12v. Still made it where I was going. When I went to leave a few hours later I made it one block and the engine shut off (lights on and 12v). Tried starting her up again and it seemed like I wasn't getting any fuel. Went back and screwed around with the wiring and she started up again (lights on and at 12v from now on). Made it another block and she shut down once more. Same thing. Started her up a few minutes later and made it about 1/2 a mile before it stalled. Waited, started again and made it home.
Once home I checked all the wiring to see if I could find any breaks or shorts. Nothing. Changed out the Voltage Regulator and no changes. Made sure all my wiring between the battery, starter, voltage regulator, fuel pump and ignition were good. I did notice a grinding sound coming from the alt while running.
What do ya think? Time for a new alternator?
1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
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- Sluggo
- Wishin' I was Fishin'
- Location: Portland, Or.
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
The mystery grows.....
Figured out that my fuel pump & heater booster fan are going on and off randomly (when the ignition is on). Both have relays switched by the infamous "Blue Wire" to the voltage regulator. This explains why the bus runs and then feels like it's getting no fuel. Have it wired to the coil as a very temporary fix. Running the pump directly off the Blue Wire does not work.
Since the blue wire is also what controls the brake and alternator idiot lights, I'm assuming this must be it. I just replaced the entire blue wire (idiot lights to VR) several months ago.
It's dark now. I'll be spending tomorrow down there. Hopefully I'll get this figured out so I can re-install my calipers with the correct piston orientation and install the brake pad backing plates. Then I can install my new Compufire which is replacing the 3 defective Hot Sparks and the Pertronix with 4 different magnet positions.
Figured out that my fuel pump & heater booster fan are going on and off randomly (when the ignition is on). Both have relays switched by the infamous "Blue Wire" to the voltage regulator. This explains why the bus runs and then feels like it's getting no fuel. Have it wired to the coil as a very temporary fix. Running the pump directly off the Blue Wire does not work.
Since the blue wire is also what controls the brake and alternator idiot lights, I'm assuming this must be it. I just replaced the entire blue wire (idiot lights to VR) several months ago.
It's dark now. I'll be spending tomorrow down there. Hopefully I'll get this figured out so I can re-install my calipers with the correct piston orientation and install the brake pad backing plates. Then I can install my new Compufire which is replacing the 3 defective Hot Sparks and the Pertronix with 4 different magnet positions.
1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
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- hambone
- Post-Industrial Non-Secular Mennonite
- Location: Portland, Ore.
- Status: Offline
Could your regulator be goin' bad too? Seems like classic symptoms.
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your brand new leopard skin pillbox hat
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
your brand new leopard skin pillbox hat
- Sluggo
- Wishin' I was Fishin'
- Location: Portland, Or.
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
I changed it out already. Same problem. Also, I just realized that I ran the NEW Blue Wire through the nose on the right side. Right where it's crushed in at. I bet the blue wire (which is actually red now except in the engine compartment) got pinched and is shorting. I'll check it out tomorrow.hambone wrote:Could your regulator be goin' bad too? Seems like classic symptoms.
1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
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- Sluggo
- Wishin' I was Fishin'
- Location: Portland, Or.
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
It's not the blue wire. I ran a jumper and still had the same problem. Replaced the fuse and checked it's wiring. I just finished pulling the alternator. The wiring on it checks out too. I'll be putting in my spare "of unknown working status" alternator in a few minutes. It actually looks to be in better shape than my current one. Except for the harness which I'll be switching out.
Wish me luck!
Wish me luck!
1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
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- Sluggo
- Wishin' I was Fishin'
- Location: Portland, Or.
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
I'll try that tomorrow. I know what bad brakes feel like.bus71 wrote:I had similar problems with our '74 bug. It turned out to be the brake light warning circuit. I pulled its plug, all o.k. Never fixed it because I know what bad brakes are. Good luck!
New alternator, new regulator, rebuilt the harness, new "Blue Wire" all the way to dashboard. Same F$&KING Problem!!!!
Here's one that will keep me from sleeping tonight. When I have the blue wire plugged directly into the voltage regulator (just like stock) with no splitter for the fan or fuel pump relays, the idiot lights don't work at all. But when I use a splitter and connect the fuel pump, the idiot lights work. Did this 5 times. It just started happening. Makes no sense whatsoever.
1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
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- Sluggo
- Wishin' I was Fishin'
- Location: Portland, Or.
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
Figured it out. The first thing I tried was replacing the voltage regulator. When that didn't work I replaced the alternator. Then I still had the same problem plus that wacky deal with the idiot lights not working unless the fuel pump was plugged in.
Well, the alternator was the original problem. Which was solved when replaced. But the old VR was good and the new spare was bad. I put the old VR back in with the new alternator and now all is well.
Well, the alternator was the original problem. Which was solved when replaced. But the old VR was good and the new spare was bad. I put the old VR back in with the new alternator and now all is well.
1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
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- Adventurewagen
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Seattle
- Status: Offline
Nice work. That sounded like a pain in the butt. Sometimes its' just so hard to figure intermittant problems like that out.
63 Gulf Blue Notch
71 Sierra Yellow Adventurewagen
71 Sierra Yellow Adventurewagen
DjEep wrote:Velo? Are you being "over-run"? Do you need to swim through a sea of Mexican anchor-babies to get to your bus in the morning?
- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
- Status: Offline
Get rid of or repair bad parts ASAP. It is extremely easy and likely that you will confound yourself if you are ADDING variables from a stash of parts where you don't quite remember why you pulled them in the first place. We want to narrow down the variables.
Colin
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
- Sluggo
- Wishin' I was Fishin'
- Location: Portland, Or.
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
*Noted*Amskeptic wrote:Get rid of or repair bad parts ASAP. It is extremely easy and likely that you will confound yourself if you are ADDING variables from a stash of parts where you don't quite remember why you pulled them in the first place. We want to narrow down the variables.
Colin
Problem is that I didn't pull most of it. I just acquired them from various sources in unknown states of repair. The Voltage Regulator and Alternator both came out of my '73 Automatic that hadn't been run since 1994. They both looked to have been replaced just before the engine blew. The alt was bright & shiny (unlike the rest of the filthy, oil soaked engine & tin). Same with the VR. I just bought a brand new spare VR just in case. $30 at Autobone.
I plan on going through all my parts and having them tested at some point.
1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
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