1977 Bus - Mid-Roadtrip, Bus Won't Start

[Daniels Big Mistake]

Alright, I set out yesterday from Olympia, going north on 101 around the Olympic Peninsula in Washington state. Drove through the rain for about 3 hours, stopped for lunch, now I cant get it to start????

I spent all afternoon yesterday tinkering with it, here are the issues and what I have figured out. This is all on a '77 FI with hydro lifters and an electronic ignition.

So I go to start and it will turn over and go for a second and then cut out and die, like its got a fuel restriction. I popped the AFM cover off and moved the contact inside, this turns the fuel pump on, but when I let it go and it falls back into the closed position the fuel pump stays on??? It will stay on until I turn the ignition off. Also the bus seems to run when the ignition is still in the starting position, and will continue to run until I let go and it returns to the 'on' position. Giving it gas will not do anything and it seems to kill it faster. I'm really scratching my head here. Cant find any vacuum leaks. Letting it sit for a while seems to let it run for longer. Since the bus stopped running while it was raining I have been assuming it's electrical this whole time but as I look at what I've been typing it looks like a fuel blockage? Why does the fuel pump keep running after turning it on with the AFM?

AAA towed me to a dealership in Olympia, and I guess my bus will sit there until Monday morning if I can't get it running this afternoon. I'd like to not give them my money though, plus I don't think I trust dealership mechanics. Does anyone have experience with Hansens VW, KIA, Subaru in Olympia?

This bus is really giving it to me, I love it, but give me a break. I've got an hour walk plus waiting for the public bus before I can even start tinkering

[spiffy]

I wouldn't let a dealership touch it if I were you....IMHO.

It does sound electrical in nature, almost like the fuel pump isn't getting juice when the key is in the 'on' position....did I read that right? When something wonky like this happens I start by ensuring every connection ( including grounds) are secure and then put your thinking cap on to follow the path.

[IFBwax]

Not always, but usually if the engine catches, then dies after a second or two.. it's a vacuum leak. A big one. Check your brake booster hose. Could be a quick fix.

[bretski]

Didn't you have an AAR elbow problem before? Check that, too. MAJOR vacuum leak when that sucker goes...

[Amskeptic]

it will turn over and go for a second and then cut out and die, like it's got a fuel restriction.

Let's be real specific with our descriptions and terminology and even dispense all together with throw away speculations like " like a fuel restriction."

It "will turn over" OK the starter is rotating the engine.
Then "cut out and die" what cuts out and dies? The starter? The engine has actually caught and fired and gotten up to an idle then stalls?

I popped the AFM cover off and moved the contact inside, this turns the fuel pump on, but when I let it go and it falls back into the closed position the fuel pump stays on???

Let's make sure this is fixed right away. With the ignition on, push the shiny metal rod that sticks out of the wiper and goes over to those little copper contacts. Push it to the right (carefully) and you will see it open the contacts and shut off the fuel pump. When you let go, it may spring back and the pump turns on again. So move the wiper away from the contacts so you can get some muscle into the bending without damaging the contacts, you want to bend the shiny metal rod only enough to reliably shut off the fuel pump when you let go of the wiper.

the bus seems to run when the ignition is still in the starting position, and will continue to run until I let go and it returns to the 'on' position.

Again, let's be descriptive and specific. If the engine stalls the instant you release the key, you might have a bum ignition switch or a bum connector under the steering column support (ask MissZora for the gory details).

it looks like a fuel blockage? Why does the fuel pump keep running after turning it on with the AFM?

I do not subscribe to "fuel blockage" just yet. But, for the record, you can have a fuel blockage and the pump running at the wrong time. Two different issues.

I'd like to not give them my money though,

Bring a hot wire. Run it lightly from the ignition coil #15 (+) terminal to the battery (+). See if it starts normally. Go back and pull the wire off the battery (+). Stalls? Something in the ignition switch/connector under the steering column support.
Colin

[Daniels Big Mistake]

Hey, sorry about the delay. I haven't had internet access for quite awhile.

Anyway, I got towed to the dealership, sat there all day Sunday, just poking and prodding not doing anything really. I checked all electrical grounds and connections, I read about wires running to the coil can short out on the block, so I moved all those, then tested fuel pressure which was steady at 35psi. Then Monday morning it just started up and I drove away right as the dealership opened, like nothing happened. I don't know, maybe water shorted something out temporarily? I've been driving this since and it starts up without a problem every time. I'm working at a job that has shop access so I'm going to go through the electrical system and clean all the grounds and the like, but other than that, I don't have any ideas. How could I track down this problem?

[Amskeptic]

How could I track down this problem?

Welcome! Welcome to the World of Intermittency.
Take your best guess (water-inspired short) and execute the cure for that as best you can. De-Ox gel on all electrical contact surfaces. See what happens. If you make it through your next rainy day without incident, yer good.
If it drops dead, congratulations!
You have a new chance to Find Out What It Really Is.
Colin