Changing front shifter bushing

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dtrumbo
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Changing front shifter bushing

Post by dtrumbo » Fri May 09, 2008 7:35 am

Hi all,

I need to replace the front shifter bushing (nylon donut type) on my '78. I thought I had read somewhere that this can be done without removing the front shift rod. Now having tried it I can say that this is false. My first question is, can you remove the front shift rod without removing the gearshift lever inside the bus? If so, that would eliminate the adjusting-the-shifter procedure if you don't remove it in the first place. My second question is, what gear should you put the bus in before you take anything apart? Again, I've read the bus should be in second gear which makes sense for when you go to re-install the gear shift lever (if necessary). However, it seems the front shift rod could be removed easier if the bus was in first (or third) gear.

Has anyone done this procedure and what are your suggestions for doing it?

Thanks!
- Dick

1970 Transporter. 2015cc, dual Weber IDF 40's
1978 Riviera Camper. Bone stock GE 2.0L F.I.
1979 Super Beetle convertible.

... as it turns out, it was the coil!

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Westy78
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Post by Westy78 » Fri May 09, 2008 11:05 am

Done it a couple of times. I can't see anyway to do it without removing the shifter since the ball sits about an inch down into cup of the shift rod. It's really not a hard procedure to adjust the stop plate and shifter afterwards. Takes about two minutes. Yes, it should be in second as that's the gear you want to be in for adjustment after replacing the bushing. Get used to doing this job since the aftermarket bushings are crap for the most part and only last a couple of years before they fall apart again.

Next time I need to do the job I'll be fabbing something up from a small section of PVC pipe and a couple of hose clamps to hold it in place. Not only will it last a lot longer but should support the front shift rod better.

Make sure to clean the shifter ball and pin and then pack the cup with fresh grease (within reason) before reinstalling the shifter. Makes for a nice smooth shift.
Chorizo, it's what's for breakfast.

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dtrumbo
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Post by dtrumbo » Fri May 09, 2008 11:25 am

Thanks Jasan! That will be tomorrow morning's project.
- Dick

1970 Transporter. 2015cc, dual Weber IDF 40's
1978 Riviera Camper. Bone stock GE 2.0L F.I.
1979 Super Beetle convertible.

... as it turns out, it was the coil!

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dtrumbo
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Post by dtrumbo » Mon May 12, 2008 7:16 am

It went just as you described, Jasan, thanks. Now it shifts a lot smoother and no "clunk" going into reverse. It still rattles when in second gear at high RPM's so I'm thinking one of the rear bushings is shot as well. No plans to drop the motor/tranny any time soon so I'll live with it for now. Maybe Colin can have a listen to it next month.
- Dick

1970 Transporter. 2015cc, dual Weber IDF 40's
1978 Riviera Camper. Bone stock GE 2.0L F.I.
1979 Super Beetle convertible.

... as it turns out, it was the coil!

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Amskeptic
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Post by Amskeptic » Mon May 12, 2008 9:17 am

dtrumbo wrote:It went just as you described, Jasan, thanks. Now it shifts a lot smoother and no "clunk" going into reverse. It still rattles when in second gear at high RPM's so I'm thinking one of the rear bushings is shot as well. No plans to drop the motor/tranny any time soon so I'll live with it for now. Maybe Colin can have a listen to it next month.
Nope. The bushings are one of the most over-replaced parts on the car, and the new ones are always shoddier.

Rattles often come from the little spring-loaded pin that is stuck in the bottom of the shifter. You have to pop it free and clean it up and reinstall. Dirty Little Secret: many avoid this because it makes inserting the shifter back into the shift rod pocket a real PIA. But that spring loaded pin quiets the rattle interface between the shifter and the shift rod.

Rattles very often come from an engine that is not running equally on all cylinders or that has an imbalance.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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dtrumbo
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Post by dtrumbo » Mon May 12, 2008 9:34 am

I will try cleaning the shifter pin. I confess, I didn't follow Jasan's procedure fully and forgot to do this when I had the shifter out even though he suggested it. I'll do this when we get back from our big road trip this weekend. I'm in the "don't-f'-with-the-bus-before-the-big-trip" blackout period as I'm a believer/victim of Murphy's law. The rattle has been there since I bought it almost a year ago, so I don't think another week will hurt.
Amskeptic wrote:Rattles very often come from an engine that is not running equally on all cylinders or that has an imbalance.
Colin
I'm certainly not ruling this out, but since I changed the fuel lines and specifically the injector seals, this engine runs smoother than any I've ever known (all three!). I know we've semi-decided my '70 will be the focus of your visit, but hopefully we'll be able to take a few minutes to give the Riviera the once-over as well.
- Dick

1970 Transporter. 2015cc, dual Weber IDF 40's
1978 Riviera Camper. Bone stock GE 2.0L F.I.
1979 Super Beetle convertible.

... as it turns out, it was the coil!

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vwlover77
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Post by vwlover77 » Mon May 12, 2008 9:59 am

Westy78 wrote:Next time I need to do the job I'll be fabbing something up from a small section of PVC pipe and a couple of hose clamps to hold it in place. Not only will it last a lot longer but should support the front shift rod better.
Perhaps a hack repair, but I used a 1/2" piece of plywood, with a hole drilled just big enough for the shift rod. I lubed it with grease, and drilled a hole in the bracket that holds the bushing and bolted it in place. It works very well, and won't tear and fall off!
Don

---------------------------
78 Westy
71 Super Beetle Convertible Autostick

"When we let our compassion go, we let go of whatever claim we have to the divine." - Bruce Springsteen

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