chachi wrote:what if i didn't have the correct clutch cable? again, this is a six rib i'm trying to put in a '74, and it is clearly longer than the original five rib (i measure about a half inch). long enough so that in the bottom gears, 2, 4 and R, i'm physically hitting a crossbeam forward of the transmission with the shift coupling cage.
before i replaced the donut in the nose cone, i could, without the clutch, wrench it through its gears and get it into neutral. but now, seemingly, it won't go actually into neutral at all.
Can you plan your course of questioning here?
I don't know where to begin.
i will say that the pressure plate on this engine looks pretty worn. i'm kicking myself now that i didn't just change it.
What is a "worn pressure plate" ?
also, can that big spring that is on the outside, forcing the actuating arm back, be too worn?
Why? What makes a spring "worn"?
i get the shifting nut and wire back in and i can feel the gears, but the transmission is in gear the whole time,
Then you honestly can't "feel the gears". What is "feel the gears". Do you mean that you can feel a discrete engagement in each of the four positions? Or do you just feel some resistance under the car as the shift coupler cage rides over the torsion tube or whatever you were saying?
i don't have the cv linkage hooked up and can see the trans-side dishes spin. but the clutch is more worrying to me.
CV linkages? trans side dishes? We need to speak the same language to communicate. If you have the least bit of an issue with the clutch disengaging, not having the CV joints bolted up absolutely works against you. The transmission needs the drag of the output shaft at a full stop, like any fully assembled car would have. You are trying to engage gears with cold transmission oil and no driveshafts? Forget it.
now i'm here, which is about where i had it before, way way in, almost to max
There is no "max" to it. I don't actually know if you meant you wanted to replace the "pressure plate" further up or "clutch plate", but for the record, if you do put in a new clutch plate, the pressure plate fingers will actually be much further in towards the flywheel, and you WILL have to take up more clutch cable slack. As the clutch wears, the fingers move out, taking away free play.
So at any rate, I have seen far worse at the wing nut than that. If you have adjusting room, take it! You have adjusting room in the photograph. I see threads out the front of the lever. You are aware that you can shim the bowden tube where it goes through the side bracket of the transaxle, yes? A couple of thick washers will add a little length/sag to the bowden tube and restore your adjustment range on the cable threads.
Do NOT take up any more slack than what is needed to get 1" freeplay. If the clutch is dragging and causing hard shifts (with the driveshafts bolted up), you can't try to make the pedal go further down to "fix" it.
091 transaxles are nice, but don't cram them in without knowing exactly what the issues are. People drill new grub screw holes in the shift rod coming out of the nose cone to bring back correct shifting in an incorrect application. I suggest that you know exactly what you are doing, or find someone who does, before you do anything.
2019 Annual Funding Drive!
https://itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewto ... 41&t=13755
BobD - 1978 Bus . . . . . . . . . . .111,145 miles
Chloe - 1970 bus . . . . . . . . . . . 206,812 miles
Naranja - 1977 Westfalia . . . . . 97,060 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . 55,510 miles
Alexus - 1991 Lexus LS400 . . . 76,650 miles