Itinerant Air-Cooled

awesome, thanks!

asiab3 wrote:

chachi wrote:so you're using 189c in this, no? Weddle lists that and a plain 189, the difference being the height, of course. if you could have your choice...?

That looks to be correct. I tried to install the 189c (17mm, THICK) on my '69 and they were a chore. A friend and I put the 189 (10mm, regular) seals on his '68 and they went in much easier. Both kept the output shafts dry.

Robbie

Chloe's sand rail seals never leaked in the 40,000 miles or so since the procedure. My rebuilt Rancho transaxle seals started drooling within a couple of thousand miles. Oy.

BobD is perfectly fine at 110,000 miles with 38 year-old factory seals, and this baby, Naranja, at 46,000 miles is likewise perfectly dry with 39 year-old seals.
Colin

My plastic lockplates are brittle and pieces are starting to break off. The seal doesn't seem to be leaking though. What will eventually happen when the plastic lockplates totally disintegrate? My bus came from Yuma, AZ and most of the plastic on it is crumbly from the desert heat.

My best guess is: nothing will happen. But there's always the option to replace before failure:
https://weddleindustries.com/products/n ... -vw-type-2

OK, I got the sealing caps for the flanges from Bughaus.com and replaced the plastic lockplates. Mine had thin washers under the circlips that held the flanges. Colin's trick of prying off the flanges with two screwdrivers using the lockplate screws as fulcrums worked great. They wouldn't budge if you pried one side at a time but if you pried both sides at once they came right off. When putting the circlips back on the ends seated right in but I had to tap lightly around the circumference with a screwdriver to get the rest of them to seat in properly. My seals weren't leaking so I didn't go any deeper than replacing the lockplates. There wasn't much left of the old ones.

Happyfolk wrote: ↑

Wed May 10, 2017 2:48 pm

OK, I got the sealing caps for the flanges from Bughaus.com and replaced the plastic lockplates. Mine had thin washers under the circlips that held the flanges. Colin's trick of prying off the flanges with two screwdrivers using the lockplate screws as fulcrums worked great. They wouldn't budge if you pried one side at a time but if you pried both sides at once they came right off. When putting the circlips back on the ends seated right in but I had to tap lightly around the circumference with a screwdriver to get the rest of them to seat in properly. My seals weren't leaking so I didn't go any deeper than replacing the lockplates. There wasn't much left of the old ones.

You gotta stop driving past all that ozone out there in the pastoral splendor.
"What ozone?" you ask.
I have no idea, because I have never seen brittle plastic up at the transaxle side covers.
Colin

Amskeptic wrote: ↑

Fri May 12, 2017 6:55 pm

You gotta stop driving past all that ozone out there in the pastoral splendor.
"What ozone?" you ask.
I have no idea, because I have never seen brittle plastic up at the transaxle side covers.
Colin

The brittle plastic is a result of it's previous life in Yuma, AZ. All of it's plastic is brittle. I've been gradually replacing all of it.

Does anyone know which WAY the spring washer that goes between the circlip and drive flange goes? In other words, is it positioned so the inner raised edge faces outboard? Or flipped so the OUTER raised edge faces outboard? Hope that makes sense ;o)

cheesecrackers75 wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 17, 2019 11:05 am

Does anyone know which WAY the spring washer that goes between the circlip and drive flange goes? In other words, is it positioned so the inner raised edge faces outboard? Or flipped so the OUTER raised edge faces outboard? Hope that makes sense ;o)
091-517-295_0.jpg

Rule Of Thumb

The Outer Raised Edge of a Dished Washer Needs To Contact The Larger Surface, i.e. The Flange.
The Inner Raised Edge Therefore Is On The Other Side Of The Washer and Contacts The Smaller Surface,
i.e. The Circlip.

Wow. That was formal.
Colin

Thanks to this post I have ordered all the parts to perform this repair on the passenger side of the transaxle. The transmission was rebuilt 13 years / 47,000 miles ago, and only the passenger side is currently leaking. I will change out the oil at the same time. I hope it all goes smoothly!

According to the article, you will change out the oil AFTER. ;D

I'm about to do this too, Rancho said they would honor the warranty and reseal it if I brought it to them, but they wouldn't give me seals to fix it myself…

vwlover77, were you able to find normal oil seals, or are yours YUGE like Colin's?
Robbie

asiab3 wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 10, 2019 8:06 pm

vwlover77, were you able to find normal oil seals, or are yours YUGE like Colin's?
Robbie

They should arrive Monday..... I'll let you know!

My parts arrived yesterday! Woohoo! Well, let's tone that down to yay. I was hoping to complete the job today, but a few complications have occurred.

First, I was just wiping down the area beneath the CV before starting when the paper towel caught a raised corner of the plastic locking plate. SNAP!


This thing is crumbly and extremely brittle. Since it has the VW logo molded in, I assume it's the original. Ugh. The local foreign auto parts store can get me one, but it will be a few days.

Some good news: i can report that the super wide seals CAN be removed, as that is what was installed. It has DPM GERMANY molded in the rubber, so I was a little sad to destroy it. The new one from CIP1 is the same width, and is made by NAK which is a respected Taiwanese OE seal supplier.



I think I found the cause of the leak. The drive flange has a really deep wear groove from the seal lip. It's still quite deep even after chucking it up to my drill press and working on it with emery cloth for quite a long while. So, I have a "rebuilt" one of those on order too.



I've installed the new seal and will finish the rest when the additional parts arrive.

Does this installation look OK? The 46mm socket would only get me so far and I finished it off with a wood dowel working my way around the circumference.

Do I see a divot at the 11:00 mark? Those are such pests to install…

Robbie

asiab3 wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 12, 2019 11:17 pm

Do I see a divot at the 11:00 mark? Those are such pests to install…

I cannot feel a divot when I run my finger around in there. I think it's just a trick of the lighting in the photo. And YES INDEED that installation was a pain!