1971 Type 3 with f.i. condenser not grounding
- whc03grady
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1971 Type 3 with f.i. condenser not grounding
Okay, so I drove with the new points/condenser.
At ~105 miles there was a bad stuttering issue, to the point where I pulled off into a town, looking for a place to mull things over. But not long after getting into town, the car ran fine again. I ate some lunch or whatever and went on my way, which was another ~150 miles, with no problems. Over 28mpg even.
The car sat for over three days. I went to start it this afternoon, and it's stumbly and rough as all get out. Thinking I'm gonna have to mess with the timing again, I loosen the distributor. Hey! Fires up and runs fine now. I check the timing with a strobe anyway and, since everything seems to be in order, start to tighten up the dizzy. Oops, car's stumbling again. ALSO! There are little sparks down there at the dizzy tightening nut as I tighten it. Hmmm.
I think, there was trouble tightening that condenser down; the threads on that screw looked a little flat. Stripped? Probably. Sure enough, when it runs and I put some pressure on the condenser, little sparks dance around that screw. My verdict (tell me if I'm wrong): poorly grounded condenser is the root of my trouble.
So (finally) here's my situation: I'm 250 miles from home. The car runs well when the condenser is pressed up against the fan housing (grounding it, I assume), but when I tighten down the dizzy, it stumbles. I likely have no access to another one of those teeny little screws. Is there another way to ground the condenser if the screw isn't doing its job?
At ~105 miles there was a bad stuttering issue, to the point where I pulled off into a town, looking for a place to mull things over. But not long after getting into town, the car ran fine again. I ate some lunch or whatever and went on my way, which was another ~150 miles, with no problems. Over 28mpg even.
The car sat for over three days. I went to start it this afternoon, and it's stumbly and rough as all get out. Thinking I'm gonna have to mess with the timing again, I loosen the distributor. Hey! Fires up and runs fine now. I check the timing with a strobe anyway and, since everything seems to be in order, start to tighten up the dizzy. Oops, car's stumbling again. ALSO! There are little sparks down there at the dizzy tightening nut as I tighten it. Hmmm.
I think, there was trouble tightening that condenser down; the threads on that screw looked a little flat. Stripped? Probably. Sure enough, when it runs and I put some pressure on the condenser, little sparks dance around that screw. My verdict (tell me if I'm wrong): poorly grounded condenser is the root of my trouble.
So (finally) here's my situation: I'm 250 miles from home. The car runs well when the condenser is pressed up against the fan housing (grounding it, I assume), but when I tighten down the dizzy, it stumbles. I likely have no access to another one of those teeny little screws. Is there another way to ground the condenser if the screw isn't doing its job?
Ludwig--1974 Westfalia, 2.0L (GD035193), Solex 34PDSIT-2/3 carburetors.
Gertie--1971 Squareback, 1600cc with Bosch D-Jetronic fuel injection from a '72 (E brain).
Read about their adventures:
http://www.ludwigandgertie.blogspot.com
Gertie--1971 Squareback, 1600cc with Bosch D-Jetronic fuel injection from a '72 (E brain).
Read about their adventures:
http://www.ludwigandgertie.blogspot.com
- whc03grady
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Livingston Montana
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Re: 1971 Type 3 with f.i. condenser not grounding
O'Reilly's managed to get me a bolt the same size and with the same pitch as the screw, but it's way long. I bought a bunch of washers so hopefully that'll take care of the length. Since it's too dark now, I'll get on it in the morning.
But if the hole in the dizzy body is shot, I don't know what I'll do. Solder? JB Weld? Any ideas? Anything?
But if the hole in the dizzy body is shot, I don't know what I'll do. Solder? JB Weld? Any ideas? Anything?
Ludwig--1974 Westfalia, 2.0L (GD035193), Solex 34PDSIT-2/3 carburetors.
Gertie--1971 Squareback, 1600cc with Bosch D-Jetronic fuel injection from a '72 (E brain).
Read about their adventures:
http://www.ludwigandgertie.blogspot.com
Gertie--1971 Squareback, 1600cc with Bosch D-Jetronic fuel injection from a '72 (E brain).
Read about their adventures:
http://www.ludwigandgertie.blogspot.com
- vwlover77
- IAC Addict!
- Location: North Canton, Ohio
- Status: Offline
Re: 1971 Type 3 with f.i. condenser not grounding
Ground is ground. Mount the condensor anywhere you can get a good ground connection. Or, solder a wire or use a screw and nut to connect a wire to the condensor mounting flange and ground the wire.
Don
---------------------------
78 Westy
71 Super Beetle Convertible Autostick
"When we let our compassion go, we let go of whatever claim we have to the divine." - Bruce Springsteen
---------------------------
78 Westy
71 Super Beetle Convertible Autostick
"When we let our compassion go, we let go of whatever claim we have to the divine." - Bruce Springsteen
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Re: 1971 Type 3 with f.i. condenser not grounding
A self tapping screw that is slightly larger.
1968 Karmann Ghia - Driver
1969 Transporter - Project
1959 Karmann Ghia - Full Race Car
1969 Transporter - Project
1959 Karmann Ghia - Full Race Car
- whc03grady
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Livingston Montana
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Re: 1971 Type 3 with f.i. condenser not grounding
For the nonce it is held on by a much longer 4mm bolt, stacked with nuts.
The self-tapping screw is where I'm going next.
The self-tapping screw is where I'm going next.
Ludwig--1974 Westfalia, 2.0L (GD035193), Solex 34PDSIT-2/3 carburetors.
Gertie--1971 Squareback, 1600cc with Bosch D-Jetronic fuel injection from a '72 (E brain).
Read about their adventures:
http://www.ludwigandgertie.blogspot.com
Gertie--1971 Squareback, 1600cc with Bosch D-Jetronic fuel injection from a '72 (E brain).
Read about their adventures:
http://www.ludwigandgertie.blogspot.com
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- IAC Addict!
- Status: Offline
Re: 1971 Type 3 with f.i. condenser not grounding
Ya oughta open it up to the next larger size and tap it. A self tapping screw will eventually wear out it's hole.
changing the condenser once or twice a year, your bound to self tap an extra set or two of threads in the hole. I promise you that's what will happen. may take 2 or 3 years, but it'll happen.
changing the condenser once or twice a year, your bound to self tap an extra set or two of threads in the hole. I promise you that's what will happen. may take 2 or 3 years, but it'll happen.
1/20/2013 end of an error
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
- dtrumbo
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Mill Creek, WA
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Re: 1971 Type 3 with f.i. condenser not grounding
vdubyah73 wrote:Ya oughta open it up to the next larger size and tap it. A self tapping screw will eventually wear out it's hole.
changing the condenser once or twice a year, your bound to self tap an extra set or two of threads in the hole. I promise you that's what will happen. may take 2 or 3 years, but it'll happen.
x2. Drill and tap and be done with it once and forever.
- Dick
1970 Transporter. 2015cc, dual Weber IDF 40's
1978 Riviera Camper. Bone stock GE 2.0L F.I.
1979 Super Beetle convertible.
... as it turns out, it was the coil!
1970 Transporter. 2015cc, dual Weber IDF 40's
1978 Riviera Camper. Bone stock GE 2.0L F.I.
1979 Super Beetle convertible.
... as it turns out, it was the coil!
- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
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Re: 1971 Type 3 with f.i. condenser not grounding
Nuh uh. . . Arc weld it on.dtrumbo wrote:vdubyah73 wrote:Ya oughta open it up to the next larger size and tap it. A self tapping screw will eventually wear out it's hole.
changing the condenser once or twice a year, your bound to self tap an extra set or two of threads in the hole. I promise you that's what will happen. may take 2 or 3 years, but it'll happen.
x2. Drill and tap and be done with it once and forever.
Mitch, be careful that you are not actually having an issue where the wire from the coil #1 (-) enters the distributor. They can fray and short at the plastic grommet.
Still a great car though, right?
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
- whc03grady
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Livingston Montana
- Contact:
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Re: 1971 Type 3 with f.i. condenser not grounding
Arc weld the condenser to the distributor body? How will I ever replace it? Or is the old saw about the points and condenser being a team yet another piece of Muirian "wisdom" that we are better off ignoring?Amskeptic wrote:Nuh uh. . . Arc weld it on.dtrumbo wrote:vdubyah73 wrote:Ya oughta open it up to the next larger size and tap it. A self tapping screw will eventually wear out it's hole.
changing the condenser once or twice a year, your bound to self tap an extra set or two of threads in the hole. I promise you that's what will happen. may take 2 or 3 years, but it'll happen.
x2. Drill and tap and be done with it once and forever.
Mitch, be careful that you are not actually having an issue where the wire from the coil #1 (-) enters the distributor. They can fray and short at the plastic grommet.
Still a great car though, right?
Colin
The wires into and out of the grommet look fine. It's a new condenser and all.
Thinking about going to electronic ignition,
whc03grady.
Ludwig--1974 Westfalia, 2.0L (GD035193), Solex 34PDSIT-2/3 carburetors.
Gertie--1971 Squareback, 1600cc with Bosch D-Jetronic fuel injection from a '72 (E brain).
Read about their adventures:
http://www.ludwigandgertie.blogspot.com
Gertie--1971 Squareback, 1600cc with Bosch D-Jetronic fuel injection from a '72 (E brain).
Read about their adventures:
http://www.ludwigandgertie.blogspot.com