Gas in my oil, AGAIN!

[Sluggo]

It's different this time. Keep in mind this is all in the span of about 5 hours. Started the Bus up after replacing the input shaft seal, starter bushing and installing a 42 Draft Designs Oil Pressure Sender relocation kit. And running a whole new ignition wire from the dash to the starter. Ran great! Good power and acceleration. After about 20 miles I noticed a few leaks. Very tiny. No big deal. Then when I checked the oil, I smelled gas. And the marker read high. I compared the consistency of this brand new (20 miles) oil to some straight out of the bottle and it was thin. I had about a quart of gas in the crankcase. My original theory was that when I shut her down, the bowls were draining into the head and then the case. So i parked and let her sit for an hour. Took off the carb tops and checked the bowls. Perfect level. There goes that theory.

So now what? It must be coming through my heads/cylinders while driving. I did notice a small amount of oil between the cylinder & head on the 3/4 side. What could cause this?

[Amskeptic]

Good power and acceleration.
Took off the carb tops and checked the bowls. Perfect level. There goes that theory.

Not necessarily, gwasshoppa.
When you "let her sit for an hour", the fuel gets an opportunity
to drain down to the perfect level.

You must check immediately at shut-off

[Sluggo]

Good power and acceleration.
Took off the carb tops and checked the bowls. Perfect level. There goes that theory.

Not necessarily, gwasshoppa.
When you "let her sit for an hour", the fuel gets an opportunity
to drain down to the perfect level.

You must check immediately at shut-off

If that's the case, then I guess I would need new floats. How do you test floats?

[satchmo]

Geez, Sluggo, are you sure you just don't want to give up on these old VW dinosaur buses and get something like, you know, a nice Honda Odessey?

"I feel your pain." - Bill Clinton

Tim

PS: I agree with Skeptic; something is still wrong with your needle valves/floats in order for you to get that kind of gas in the crankcase. Did you ever put in that mechanical fuel pump? Might help. But then you are putting in CIS at some point, so perhaps a moot point.

[Sluggo]

Geez, Sluggo, are you sure you just don't want to give up on these old VW dinosaur buses and get something like, you know, a nice Honda Odessey?

"I feel your pain." - Bill Clinton

Tim

PS: I agree with Skeptic; something is still wrong with your needle valves/floats in order for you to get that kind of gas in the crankcase. Did you ever put in that mechanical fuel pump? Might help. But then you are putting in CIS at some point, so perhaps a moot point.

I have an '86 Corolla. I bought it as a temporary after I crashed my '91 Jetta GLI. Then I got the Bus and decided to put my money into fixing that. It's been a long journey but I've loved almost every minute. Soon it will be perfect mechanically. Then time for body & paint. I'd rather have a car I can fix on the side of the road than a car that requires a special computer and to diagnose it's problems.

Never put in the mechanical pump. I was going to when I dropped the engine but I became hooked on F.I after test driving a '79 Westy for someone. I can send it back if you want. Otherwise I'll just wait until someone needs one and pass it on.

It must be the floats. I've replaced the needles & seat with after market and then put back the original Weber ones. Could gas be slipping past a misfiring cylinder? How can I determine a misfire? I know the plug pull test. But that wouldn't really show a cylinder that's only firing half the time.

I was also told that short drives can cause this. Most of my drives are 3 miles or less.

[Sluggo]

How do you test a float?

[chitwnvw]

If that's the case, then I guess I would need new floats. How do you test floats?

Get a smallish bucket. Pull the top of you IDF, let the float hang free, hang in bucket, turn the key (if electric pump) so that pump turns on, should be seeing gas pouring into bucket, raise floats to turn off zone, probably 10 or 11 mm from hitting top of carb, should shut off and no more fuel. It's a somewhat simple switch.

It weird that you get these problems that don't seem like they could be related to you engine pull, right after an engine pull. They are 30+ year old vehicles though, it could just be a coincidence...

[Amskeptic]

How do you test a float?

If it is floating in the chamber, it is good. You can weigh it if you have specs. Now think of the physics involved. The float ballast has to push on the needle (pintle) at a slight angle as the float arcs. Is it possibly jamming a little with slight sideways pressure. That would give you a perfect test with the carbs apart and flooding when the carbs are together. These new neoprene seat needle valves can have a tough time seating. Try pushing the needle up firmly to shut off the valve. This will help create an impression in the neoprene. Does the needle drop down of its own accord? Does it go up smoothly with a little sideways pressure? Does the float pivot possible jam up during assembly, just check for appearance of potential interference. Do a blow test with needle valve and give it a good work-out. You are not likely getting crankcase dilution from a rich cylinder. That sucker wouldn't even fire if it was getting liquid down past the rings. You are likely getting crankcase dilution at shut-off. Have you checked your warm engine for drips from the metering orifice. You'll need a mirror to check. . . with a warm engine.
Colin

[chitwnvw]

You are not likely getting crankcase dilution from a rich cylinder. That sucker wouldn't even fire if it was getting liquid down past the rings. You are likely getting crankcase dilution at shut-off.

Colin

Wouldn't there be start up issues, or would the liquid gas just get shloshed out the exhaust port. Wouldn't you see that in the exhaust....

[Amskeptic]

Gasoline does not readily pool in the cylinder. It dribbles down into the crankcase long before it can leave an open exhaust valve which is several mm.s above the bottom of the barrell.
Colin

[chitwnvw]

Ahh, master, I learn new everyday...

[Sluggo]

How do you test a float?

If it is floating in the chamber, it is good. You can weigh it if you have specs. Now think of the physics involved. The float ballast has to push on the needle (pintle) at a slight angle as the float arcs. Is it possibly jamming a little with slight sideways pressure. That would give you a perfect test with the carbs apart and flooding when the carbs are together. These new neoprene seat needle valves can have a tough time seating. Try pushing the needle up firmly to shut off the valve. This will help create an impression in the neoprene. Does the needle drop down of its own accord? Does it go up smoothly with a little sideways pressure? Does the float pivot possible jam up during assembly, just check for appearance of potential interference. Do a blow test with needle valve and give it a good work-out.

Done!

You are not likely getting crankcase dilution from a rich cylinder. That sucker wouldn't even fire if it was getting liquid down past the rings.

That's a relief.

You are likely getting crankcase dilution at shut-off. Have you checked your warm engine for drips from the metering orifice. You'll need a mirror to check. . . with a warm engine.

By "metering orifice" do you mean the pump jets? Either way I haven't done it. So what do I do? Warm up the engine, shut it off, pull the air cleaners and look down the stacks/throats?

[chitwnvw]

By "metering orifice" do you mean the pump jets?

LOL. I'm sick this is funny for me....

[Amskeptic]

By "metering orifice" do you mean the pump jets? Either way I haven't done it. So what do I do? Warm up the engine, shut it off, pull the air cleaners and look down the stacks/throats?

You will see where the fuel is drawn into the center of the venturi. Look for drips. If you have separate accelerator pump jets, look for drips there too. Ignore Chitwnvw's giggling
Colin

[Sluggo]

It's a dead float. It's not lifting when the bowl fills. I'll be getting new ones on Monday. This probably explains why I seem rich & lean at the same time. Also probably has something to do with the crappy mileage too.