2.0 liter Engine Build

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Amskeptic
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Re: 2.0 liter Engine Build

Post by Amskeptic » Mon Jan 29, 2018 8:18 pm

wild man smith wrote:
Sat Jan 27, 2018 1:53 pm
Going to need 2 gaskets, one for the oil filter mount to block , the other for the oil fill pipe to block. Any sources would be appreciated,
Is the O Ring on the oil pickup tube included in the full gasket set?

pressure regulator valve near the pulley end. Would a new stock spring be a good idea?
Thanks in advance, Mike
Get the factory gaskets here. Very hardworking joints. They will be in the stock gasket kit, green finish. Make sure mating surfaces are absolutely smooth and clean. Torque only to spec. Use Permatex Aviation on these gaskets.
O-ring included, yes.

New spring, hail no. Original German is more trustworthy. Check tension at prescribed height. Read below:
Colin

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=12459#p212979


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BobD - 1978 Bus . . . . . . . . . . . 111,155 miles
Chloe - 1970 bus . . . . . . . . . . . 206,820 miles
Naranja - 1977 Westfalia . . . . . 108,000 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,570 miles
Alexus - 1991 Lexus LS400 . . . 78,885 miles

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Re: 2.0 liter Engine Build

Post by wild man smith » Fri Feb 02, 2018 3:04 pm

Mike @ Halsey has the two needed gaskets on the way. Oil Pickup tube has O ring from gasket set. Will dig out the spring when the case halves are together. Crank and cam are bedded in the driver side half. Had the case halves in our kitchen sink after cleaning and drying with gasoline., hot soapy water, scrub pad, then in the oven to dry at low heat to prevent rust of the steel studs, etc. Rolled the assembly to see the cam lobe action, check for any interference. Case thru bolts are cleaned and prepped, ditto the bolt for the oil pickup . Halsey has one of the nylon pieces for the thru bolts, must have lost one. Ringed the pistons last night. Need to finish hone the barrels, and lap them to the head for each side. Nice suprize , the machine shop sized the big ends when he did the pin bushings, rod bearings had good plastigage clearance, the rods swing with that slow arc when let go really a thing of beauty. PO had pipe plugged all the oil gallery passages, Case bore miked out ok, I have a precision straight EDGE FROM SNAP ON tOOLS FROM THE OLD DAYS OF LINE MECHANIC, laid it in the main saddles, and the snap gauges were used with the micrometer to get the bore ID. Miked the mains to check the fit. All pins are in their proper holes in the bearings, saved the flywheel end shims to check end play when I get that far. I made some paper gaskets for the two covers over the metal flappers in the fan housing, have new oval copper port gaskets, new studs at the exhaust ports.

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Re: 2.0 liter Engine Build

Post by wild man smith » Fri Feb 02, 2018 3:54 pm

I want to thank you again for the tip on checking the spring, def doable!!. Have a new aluminum washer for the relief valve plug. This ED case has only the one pressure valve on the fan end, Going real well for my first time having a case apart, patience helps . My Son In Law lent me his mikes and snap gauges, he has the 650 lb. tranny jack I will use for installation. For 160 bucks, I like it. it was real easy to get her out complete. has fore and aft, and side to side tilt adjustments. Old electric fuel pump is out (spare) new needs plumbed and mounted to the frame. Got a meter of braided fuel hose to match the carb nipples, a brass "TEE" and the guage to test fuel pressure. Have a round regulator, made of aluminum, with a adjustimg screw, and lock screw. Brass barb fittings on each port. Got a handheld volt-ohm meter with a tachometer function, and a temperature function with a probe. Cam manufacturer recommends 20 minutes @ 2000 rpm for lobe break in. Will be useful for setting max timing advance at rpm also. Pertronix III, with a single vacuum advance can. Kept the old points type and coil for spares. Pushrod tubes are prepped, pushrods are straight, ends look proper, that stuff is in a gallon ziplok bag. Rocker arm pieces will be re-used, they always had good oiling. Adjusting screw ends have no chipping at the valve contact area. 8 new webcam hydraulic lifters, they worked well for me on the motor previously. Old Cam lobes were def on the way out, probably run a lot better with proper lift and duration. Have a new tube of Curil, is there any other case half sealer you like? Will set a TDC mark on the fan pulley, and a reference on the engine case when the #1 piston is in, can set her to the top. Call it a "Build TDC." . Have a new metal degree scale( old Eyes) and will make a tdc mark on the pulley for timing use. Final CC volume when piston height is mesyureable, and calc compressin ratio. New washers for the cylinder head studs, threads are good on those and the nuts. Curil on the inside the head washers? Thank you for the help. , Mike

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Re: 2.0 liter Engine Build

Post by wild man smith » Sat Feb 03, 2018 12:08 am

@ Bleysing, piston rings were purchased from Halsey VW store in Portland, I brought a piston with me to check the fit of the grooves, last thing I need is an extra set of rings which do not fit my pistons. They ARE USA manufacture, white box. Chrome oil scrapers, iron, no chrome on middle and top two. Oil ring gaps are between 10 and 2 o'clock at the top of the cylinder, expander piece is at 12 noon. Anchored a stud today for the oil fill metal tube/dipstick piece. will check the flatness on the case boss, looks pretty good, no gouges. can flie if needed. Spend after dinner IN the engine bay. The Masonite and plastic bagged insulation below the rear deck was falling out. crumbling. Two of the insulation bags are intact, however, show a label inside the bag. Kinda cool, 41 year old relics like this. The hatch door still has the OG factory bag, wire bale is working well so far. For insulation, went with some Harbor Freight anti fatigue mat, grey with a diamond plate pattern, about 3/8 inch thick. scissors, measuring tape, spray contact adhesive. got the back deck looking a helluva lot better than droopy Masonite. Take some pics when done, I like it. Do the rest of the roll sat., god willing, Good progress this week, I just realized I have been bending wrenches for 50 years this Valentines day. Had a 69 corolla fastback, believe it was around 2 k new. First vehicle was a WW2 era "WHIZZER" 1 cylinder engine powered Bicycle. Junk man gave it to me, some one had put it out to the curb. Needed a points adjustment. Had a couple of chicks ride on that one with me, age 16 and full of sap. Gail and Sharon, bless you two wherever you are.................

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Re: 2.0 liter Engine Build

Post by Amskeptic » Sun Feb 04, 2018 1:03 pm

wild man smith wrote:
Sat Feb 03, 2018 12:08 am
For insulation, went with some Harbor Freight anti fatigue mat, grey with a diamond plate pattern, about 3/8 inch thick.
Fire resistant?
Colin
BobD - 1978 Bus . . . . . . . . . . . 111,155 miles
Chloe - 1970 bus . . . . . . . . . . . 206,820 miles
Naranja - 1977 Westfalia . . . . . 108,000 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,570 miles
Alexus - 1991 Lexus LS400 . . . 78,885 miles

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Re: 2.0 liter Engine Build

Post by wild man smith » Sun Feb 04, 2018 9:33 pm

I do a lot of welding, grinding in the shop. I haven't lit it on fire yet. About 1/2 inch thick or less. The bagged stuff under the rotten Masonite looked like wadded cloth(horsehair)? I have ALL new in the past month fuel line from tank to where the fuel pressure regulator is mounted. Got a meter of the good Churmannn stuff at Halsey, gotta see where the carbs need fed. Nice Brass TEE to make one into two at the 3and 1/2 regulated pressure. Got the new electric fuel pump mounted, and plumbed, only need to hook up Neg wire. (Engine still under construction. ) cam and crank are set in the driver side case, want to have all the gaskets needed(Halsey) when ready to assemble. Need a day of Chill in preparation. Gonna go with the Curil, she is pristine in cleanliness, amped about the whole deal after about 200 days so far in this needed maintenance. thank you so much for sharing your experience with these 40 and 50 year old vehicles.

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Re: 2.0 liter Engine Build

Post by asiab3 » Mon Feb 05, 2018 1:47 am

Curils are fine sealants. Curils T and K are identical except for heat resistance. From the MSDS, Curil T is good for 50°f more than Curil K, so I went with the former on my first engine build. On the emergency rebuild, Curil K was the only sealant available, so I went with it and frankly don't notice a difference other than color. It should be applied thinly and evenly to every orifice that handles oil. For instance, the lower head studs inside the rocker area need sealant on both sides of each washer and on the threads. Some manufacturers insist on using sealant on ALL sealing surfaces, i.e. the head, washer, washer, nut, and threads. When using Curil on metal I find the tube applicator tip to be excellent. For spreading on gaskets, I prefer an acid brush.

Good luck with the new oval gaskets. I have found the aftermarket sizing to be variable; many will be too large to fit nicely into the oval cut-out, and some will be OK. I prefer them on the "perfect" side of sizing, where they fit into the oval with a slight press and light even coat of Permatex Ultra Copper RTV and Stay There until the headers or heat exchangers go on. Doesn't take much to file the gaskets down for that nice fit.
wild man smith wrote:Need a day of Chill
Don't we all?
Robbie
1969 bus, "Buddy."
119k miles with me.
296k miles on Earth.

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Re: 2.0 liter Engine Build

Post by tommu » Mon Feb 05, 2018 9:42 pm

asiab3 wrote:
Mon Feb 05, 2018 1:47 am
Curils are fine sealants. Curils T and K are identical except for heat resistance. From the MSDS, Curil T is good for 50°f more than Curil K, so I went with the former on my first engine build. On the emergency rebuild, Curil K was the only sealant available, so I went with it and frankly don't notice a difference other than color. It should be applied thinly and evenly to every orifice that handles oil. For instance, the lower head studs inside the rocker area need sealant on both sides of each washer and on the threads. Some manufacturers insist on using sealant on ALL sealing surfaces, i.e. the head, washer, washer, nut, and threads. When using Curil on metal I find the tube applicator tip to be excellent. For spreading on gaskets, I prefer an acid brush.
wild man smith wrote:Need a day of Chill
Don't we all?
Robbie
I need many days of chilling.

Raby on on his Bug Me video used Permatex Aviation on the case and thread sealant on the studs and washers. I read on the other site that people moved away from Permatex to Kuril due to the corrosive effects with ethanol contaminated fuel. Is that correct - or are we just appreciating newer and better materials?

I have some Joe Gibbs assembly grease for the.. assembly. I plan to use this on the bearings too. I'm going to see big pauses between component assembly and I don't want to use oil just to see it dry out.

A top tip for Monday - don't wash your rods in the dishwasher. They WILL suffer surface rust very quickly!

Robbie - I'm going to need to book a day with you in the next month or so to help drop my engine and transmission. Are you planning any expeditions?

Good luck Mr Smith, I'm eager to hear how your build goes!

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Re: 2.0 liter Engine Build

Post by asiab3 » Tue Feb 06, 2018 3:10 am

tommu wrote:
Mon Feb 05, 2018 9:42 pm
I need many days of chilling.

Raby on on his Bug Me video used Permatex Aviation on the case and thread sealant on the studs and washers. I read on the other site that people moved away from Permatex to Kuril due to the corrosive effects with ethanol contaminated fuel. Is that correct - or are we just appreciating newer and better materials?
Aviation is fine! I find it messier, though I do enjoy the smell. Where would fuel be contacting oil sealants?
\I have some Joe Gibbs assembly grease for the.. assembly. I plan to use this on the bearings too. I'm going to see big pauses between component assembly and I don't want to use oil just to see it dry out.
Have you considered "mock assembling" most parts with a light coat of engine oil or WD-40 so you can measure everything throughout the process, and acquiring all your parts over the time you have? Actual long block assembly doesn't take more than a day, with a head retoique the following day. I'm at this mockup stage this week… My crank has been in and out of its oily bag about twelve times now.
A top tip for Monday - don't wash your rods in the dishwasher. They WILL suffer surface rust very quickly!
Noted. :salute:

Good luck to you too, Mr. wild man smith!
Robbie
1969 bus, "Buddy."
119k miles with me.
296k miles on Earth.

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Re: 2.0 liter Engine Build

Post by Jivermo » Tue Feb 06, 2018 7:03 am

Interesting stuff here. Some pics would be a big plus.

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Re: 2.0 liter Engine Build

Post by wild man smith » Tue Feb 06, 2018 10:40 am

26814510_10211312903446804_8861667094938380288_n.jpg

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Re: 2.0 liter Engine Build

Post by wild man smith » Tue Feb 06, 2018 10:49 am

AMC cylinder head with manifold, I portmatched the intakes to the heads, drill, emery cloth wrapped around a split pipe.
,Came out real good. will dig up some more pics, they are in various spots.

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Re: 2.0 liter Engine Build

Post by wild man smith » Tue Feb 06, 2018 10:53 am

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Re: 2.0 liter Engine Build

Post by wild man smith » Tue Feb 06, 2018 1:30 pm

27545395_10211410036155061_3406423199026136479_n crankcase.jpg

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Re: 2.0 liter Engine Build

Post by wild man smith » Tue Feb 06, 2018 1:34 pm

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