Itinerant Air-Cooled

Time-sert installation went smoothly!

Now to clean everything, replace the fuel lines, paint the tin, and reassemble.

drober23 wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 07, 2017 3:35 pm

Time-sert installation went smoothly!

It looks good. What method is used to prevent it from backing out if your plug gets a little too stubborn?
. . . which it won't, because YOU are going to make SURE henceforth and always to lubricate the threads.
Colin

Is there a recommendation for copper vs. silver (nickel?) anti-seize on a copper threaded insert? I also read that using engine oil on the threads can gum up and make removal a little stickier. Do you know of any merit in this?

RobbieThreaded#3

The time-sert has a few threads at the bottom that have more material left on them than the rest. As you drive the timer-sert in with the special driver tool, you get some resistance toward the end as you force those thicker threads into the threads you made in the aluminum head. Theoretically, this locks the time-sert in place.

I suppose time will tell if this is sufficient.

Not sure about the merits of alternative anti-siezes. Going to use what I have on this one, and every other thing I put back together.

Doing some heat exchanger tin brazing today. Hoping to tighten them up a bit before re-installation. Colin's tale of papers being blown off his dash with the incredible force of his defrost flow has motivated me a little.

asiab3 wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 10, 2017 10:19 am

Is there a recommendation for copper vs. silver (nickel?) anti-seize on a copper threaded insert? I also read that using engine oil on the threads can gum up and make removal a little stickier. Do you know of any merit in this?

RobbieThreaded#3

Robbie - I have always used the silver stuff and under tightened a little because the torque values for plugs are given dry. Some plug manufactures give the tightness by % of a turn when a new washer is used and a small % of turn when a plug is reused. Denso and NGK both say no anti-seize but I have had plugs very hard to take out in aluminum heads, especially VW's, when they are put in dry. Usually a plug takes about 1/2 turn new and 1/12th turn used unless new washers are used. SparkPlug.com used to sell a bag of plug washers for those who wanted to reuse plugs after cleaning them etc. At any rate, I use the silver stuff and tighten about 20% less than the factory spec not to exceed the degrees given (like 1/2 to 3/4 turn new, 1/12th used) In the old days I came close to stripping some plugs following torque guidelines and using anti-seize. Some folks like to chase the threads each time to be sure carbon isn't building up.

sgkent wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 10, 2017 7:55 pm

Some folks like to chase the threads each time to be sure carbon isn't building up.

You got one?
Colin

Another good anti seize....Milk of Magnesia.

After purchasing a bottle leave it open to allow the liquid carrier to evaporate. Once evaporated use the remaining magnesium to coat the threads. This stuff is amazing.

72Hardtop wrote: ↑

Sun Jun 18, 2017 10:42 pm

Another good anti seize....Milk of Magnesia.

After purchasing a bottle leave it open to allow the liquid carrier to evaporate. Once evaporated use the remaining magnesium to coat the threads. This stuff is amazing.

Great idea, how does it hold up under high temperatures? And who buys milk of magnesium for what reason?
Colin

Amskeptic wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:16 am

72Hardtop wrote: ↑

Sun Jun 18, 2017 10:42 pm

Another good anti seize....Milk of Magnesia.

After purchasing a bottle leave it open to allow the liquid carrier to evaporate. Once evaporated use the remaining magnesium to coat the threads. This stuff is amazing.

Great idea, how does it hold up under high temperatures? And who buys milk of magnesium for what reason?
Colin

We used it in the Navy on jet engines (TF-30) and (F-110). Holds up to heat better than copper anti seize.