Stripped-Out Plug - Type 4

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drober23
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Re: Stripped-Out Plug - Type 4

Post by drober23 » Wed Jun 07, 2017 3:35 pm

Time-sert installation went smoothly!

Now to clean everything, replace the fuel lines, paint the tin, and reassemble.

Image
DJ

'75 Westfalia, '79 Deluxe
(plus more busses than sense)

In a time of chimpanzees I was a monkey

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Amskeptic
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Re: Stripped-Out Plug - Type 4

Post by Amskeptic » Sat Jun 10, 2017 6:40 am

drober23 wrote:
Wed Jun 07, 2017 3:35 pm
Time-sert installation went smoothly!


It looks good. What method is used to prevent it from backing out if your plug gets a little too stubborn?
. . . which it won't, because YOU are going to make SURE henceforth and always to lubricate the threads.
Colin
BobD - 1978 Bus . . . . . . . . . . . 112,660 miles
Chloe - 1970 bus . . . . . . . . . . . 206,820 miles
Naranja - 1977 Westfalia . . . . . 112,220 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,570 miles
Alexus - 1991 Lexus LS400 . . . 78,885 miles

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asiab3
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Re: Stripped-Out Plug - Type 4

Post by asiab3 » Sat Jun 10, 2017 10:19 am

Is there a recommendation for copper vs. silver (nickel?) anti-seize on a copper threaded insert? I also read that using engine oil on the threads can gum up and make removal a little stickier. Do you know of any merit in this?

RobbieThreaded#3
1969 bus, "Buddy."
119k miles with me.
296k miles on Earth.

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drober23
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Re: Stripped-Out Plug - Type 4

Post by drober23 » Sat Jun 10, 2017 10:38 am

The time-sert has a few threads at the bottom that have more material left on them than the rest. As you drive the timer-sert in with the special driver tool, you get some resistance toward the end as you force those thicker threads into the threads you made in the aluminum head. Theoretically, this locks the time-sert in place.

I suppose time will tell if this is sufficient.

Not sure about the merits of alternative anti-siezes. Going to use what I have on this one, and every other thing I put back together.

Doing some heat exchanger tin brazing today. Hoping to tighten them up a bit before re-installation. Colin's tale of papers being blown off his dash with the incredible force of his defrost flow has motivated me a little.
DJ

'75 Westfalia, '79 Deluxe
(plus more busses than sense)

In a time of chimpanzees I was a monkey

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sgkent
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Re: Stripped-Out Plug - Type 4

Post by sgkent » Sat Jun 10, 2017 7:55 pm

asiab3 wrote:
Sat Jun 10, 2017 10:19 am
Is there a recommendation for copper vs. silver (nickel?) anti-seize on a copper threaded insert? I also read that using engine oil on the threads can gum up and make removal a little stickier. Do you know of any merit in this?

RobbieThreaded#3
Robbie - I have always used the silver stuff and under tightened a little because the torque values for plugs are given dry. Some plug manufactures give the tightness by % of a turn when a new washer is used and a small % of turn when a plug is reused. Denso and NGK both say no anti-seize but I have had plugs very hard to take out in aluminum heads, especially VW's, when they are put in dry. Usually a plug takes about 1/2 turn new and 1/12th turn used unless new washers are used. SparkPlug.com used to sell a bag of plug washers for those who wanted to reuse plugs after cleaning them etc. At any rate, I use the silver stuff and tighten about 20% less than the factory spec not to exceed the degrees given (like 1/2 to 3/4 turn new, 1/12th used) In the old days I came close to stripping some plugs following torque guidelines and using anti-seize. Some folks like to chase the threads each time to be sure carbon isn't building up.
Thank You -

Merlin The Wrench

Machine Work/Shop Recommendations: http://kentcomputer.com/77VW/machinework.pdf

Pointers on rebuilding an engine: http://kentcomputer.com/77VW/rebuilding_a_vw_engine.pdf

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Amskeptic
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Re: Stripped-Out Plug - Type 4

Post by Amskeptic » Sun Jun 11, 2017 4:40 pm

sgkent wrote:
Sat Jun 10, 2017 7:55 pm
Some folks like to chase the threads each time to be sure carbon isn't building up.
You got one?
Colin
BobD - 1978 Bus . . . . . . . . . . . 112,660 miles
Chloe - 1970 bus . . . . . . . . . . . 206,820 miles
Naranja - 1977 Westfalia . . . . . 112,220 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,570 miles
Alexus - 1991 Lexus LS400 . . . 78,885 miles

72Hardtop
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Re: Stripped-Out Plug - Type 4

Post by 72Hardtop » Sun Jun 18, 2017 10:42 pm

Another good anti seize....Milk of Magnesia.

After purchasing a bottle leave it open to allow the liquid carrier to evaporate. Once evaporated use the remaining magnesium to coat the threads. This stuff is amazing.
1972 Westy
2056cc T-4 - 7.8:1 CR
Weber 40mm Duals - 47.5idles, 125mains, F11 tubes, 190 Air corr., 28mm Vents
96mm AA Biral P/C's w/Hastings rings
42x36mm Heads (AMC- Headflow Masters) w/Porsche swivel adjusters
71mm Stroke
Web Cam 73 w/matched Web lifters
S&S 4-1 exhaust w/Walker 17862 quiet-pack
Bosch SVDA w/Pertronix module & flamethrower 40K coil (7* initial 28* total @3200+)
NGK B5ES @ .028
002 Trans
Hankook 185R14's

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Amskeptic
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Re: Stripped-Out Plug - Type 4

Post by Amskeptic » Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:16 am

72Hardtop wrote:
Sun Jun 18, 2017 10:42 pm
Another good anti seize....Milk of Magnesia.

After purchasing a bottle leave it open to allow the liquid carrier to evaporate. Once evaporated use the remaining magnesium to coat the threads. This stuff is amazing.


Great idea, how does it hold up under high temperatures? And who buys milk of magnesium for what reason?
Colin
BobD - 1978 Bus . . . . . . . . . . . 112,660 miles
Chloe - 1970 bus . . . . . . . . . . . 206,820 miles
Naranja - 1977 Westfalia . . . . . 112,220 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,570 miles
Alexus - 1991 Lexus LS400 . . . 78,885 miles

72Hardtop
Old School!
Location: Seattle, WA./HB. Ca./Shizuoka, Japan
Status: Offline

Re: Stripped-Out Plug - Type 4

Post by 72Hardtop » Mon Jun 19, 2017 9:51 pm

Amskeptic wrote:
Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:16 am
72Hardtop wrote:
Sun Jun 18, 2017 10:42 pm
Another good anti seize....Milk of Magnesia.

After purchasing a bottle leave it open to allow the liquid carrier to evaporate. Once evaporated use the remaining magnesium to coat the threads. This stuff is amazing.


Great idea, how does it hold up under high temperatures? And who buys milk of magnesium for what reason?
Colin
We used it in the Navy on jet engines (TF-30) and (F-110). Holds up to heat better than copper anti seize.
1972 Westy
2056cc T-4 - 7.8:1 CR
Weber 40mm Duals - 47.5idles, 125mains, F11 tubes, 190 Air corr., 28mm Vents
96mm AA Biral P/C's w/Hastings rings
42x36mm Heads (AMC- Headflow Masters) w/Porsche swivel adjusters
71mm Stroke
Web Cam 73 w/matched Web lifters
S&S 4-1 exhaust w/Walker 17862 quiet-pack
Bosch SVDA w/Pertronix module & flamethrower 40K coil (7* initial 28* total @3200+)
NGK B5ES @ .028
002 Trans
Hankook 185R14's

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