Crank seal again

[Mulcheese]

So here is what I have. I had the tranny out in April to replace the throw-out bearing. While in there I replaced all seals and bearings in the tranny and engine that I had access to. Put it back in and drove it for a few hundred and all was good. We went on a summer trip and no problems for the first week but on the drive back it developed a bad leak from the bell housing/engine so we gunned it and headed for home. Once home I pulled the tranny to inspect and here is what I found. The leak had soaked all inside the bell housing. It was starting to come out of the starter bolts. The pressure plate was wet so I pulled it and the disk was dry and I didnt want to pull the flywheel but tried to look behind it and didnt seem to be to wet back there. From that I assumed that it was the tranny seal. I pulled the throw-out sleeve and gasket and there was oil behind. I replaced the seal and put it back together and now guess what? Yes it is leaking again.

Because of that much oil in the bell housing and the disk was dry I a figured it was the tranny seal. This time I had the ability to smell. I know it sounds odd but I have not been able to smell until surgery I had recently. After doing the smell test I figured that it was engine oil. Oops replaced the wrong seal.

Out with the tranny yesterday and just like before the bell housing was soaked, oil was coming out of the starter bolts, and the case was wet behind the flywheel. I inspected the seal and all looked good even though oil seemed to be leaking out on the flywheel side of the seal. With the flywheel on the bench I slid the seal on and it went on with very little resistance. It practically fell on. I would assume that there should be more spring tension.

The one I installed came from Gowesty Parts, German Crankshaft Seal #VWA006344. I have found that the seals to buy are the Reinz from BD or the Gowesty one. The Reinz seems to be what people get most.....? What do you think?????


Any other suggestions?????????????

[bajaman72]

I think the difference was in the thickness of the two seals. Your just falling in isn't right. Normally they need to be pounded in. Try a different seal. Check the tourque on the case bolts... if not I would think the case is trash.
Good luck

[DjEep]

The reinz are junk. they are too thin and basically worthless. Get a black SABO (I think that's the "GoWesty" one, though like everything, they mark it up like a million percent). Glue it in with a good sealant, like Curil, not RTV. Take a moment before install to chamfer the edge along the case, or the ribs on the seal will hang up and tear the seal. Replace the flywheel O-ring. Triple check your oil galley plugs. If you haven't already and have the ability, pull them out and tap them to take a brass plug. If you think a leaky fly seal is bad, try blowing a full-pressure galley plug at highway load.

[Mulcheese]

The reinz are junk. they are too thin and basically worthless. Get a black SABO (I think that's the "GoWesty" one, though like everything, they mark it up like a million percent). Glue it in with a good sealant, like Curil, not RTV. Take a moment before install to chamfer the edge along the case, or the ribs on the seal will hang up and tear the seal. Replace the flywheel O-ring. Triple check your oil galley plugs. If you haven't already and have the ability, pull them out and tap them to take a brass plug. If you think a leaky fly seal is bad, try blowing a full-pressure galley plug at highway load.

I thought the Reinz were the same thickness as the Sabo? Gowesty claims that they are the same thickness it is just that the Sabo has a stronger spring. From what I have seen in many posts the orange Reinz is in a lot of cases.

[Amskeptic]

The reinz are junk. they are too thin and basically worthless. Get a black SABO (I think that's the "GoWesty" one, though like everything, they mark it up like a million percent). Glue it in with a good sealant, like Curil, not RTV. Take a moment before install to chamfer the edge along the case, or the ribs on the seal will hang up and tear the seal. Replace the flywheel O-ring. Triple check your oil galley plugs. If you haven't already and have the ability, pull them out and tap them to take a brass plug. If you think a leaky fly seal is bad, try blowing a full-pressure galley plug at highway load.

I thought the Reinz were the same thickness as the Sabo? Gowesty claims that they are the same thickness it is just that the Sabo has a stronger spring. From what I have seen in many posts the orange Reinz is in a lot of cases.

It is getting more difficult to avoid the crap. A front seal should be a firm press/tap install. Don't even bother hoping that Curil or Permatex Aviation will hang in there if the seal goes in with an easy hand push. Find another seal. Otherwise, the easy-push seal will work loose over time when the crankcase expands at operating temperature. A good sealant will only forestall your day of reckoning with a loose seal. Do make sure that all crankcase fasteners in the vicinity are torqued up.
Colin

[reluctantartist]

I ended up going with the Sabo seal after having to replace mine twice. It is more stout than the others.

[grandfatherjim]

Aha! The case expanding at temp, yes. OK I have replaced the rear (rear of vehicle = fan side of engine) seal twice now. I do believe I botched it the first time so OK.
It went in too easily for my liking.
By memory it was 62x40x10, and some generic seal from a seal and bearing shop.
Is there a known superior brand seal for that end of the engine?
.
.
.
Then there is the possibility that the faint knock I think I maybe sometimes hear is that the hole for the rear main bearing has become a slight oval....

[Amskeptic]

Aha! The case expanding at temp, yes. OK I have replaced the rear (rear of vehicle = fan side of engine) seal twice now. I do believe I botched it the first time so OK.
It went in too easily for my liking.
By memory it was 62x40x10, and some generic seal from a seal and bearing shop.
Is there a known superior brand seal for that end of the engine?
.
.
.
Then there is the possibility that the faint knock I think I maybe sometimes hear is that the hole for the rear main bearing has become a slight oval....

Not that i know of. It is difficult for me to share brand loyalty, because it almost lulls people into not paying panicky proper attention to your immediate environmental variables. Be suspicious!

Ovalized #1 main bearing is not a knock so much as a thud thud thud, hot engine, such as loading the engine in let's say 4th gear at 1,000 rpm with the ebrake on.
Colin