metal in engine oil

[mentalQtip]

OK. '77 2 liter. Drained the oil and cleaned the screen etc. in a plastic tub. Poured the dirty mineral spirits in a jug and find quite an amount of metal left in the tub. Crap. Looked shiny strips and chips.
My first thought is of the camshaft and followers. Second is that I'm not driving this engine to Maupin this year. Any cheerful thoughts out there? Please?
Also, how could I evaluate a used replacement engine? Push/pull the crank pulley for "clunk"? Turn the engine and just listen for alien noises? Other considerations?
I'm trying to clean up a spare engine from another bus('77) but don't really know the condition except I thought it ran ok when I drove it two years ago.

Any thoughts appreciated.

[Amskeptic]

OK. '77 2 liter. Drained the oil and cleaned the screen etc. in a plastic tub. Poured the dirty mineral spirits in a jug and find quite an amount of metal left in the tub. Crap. Looked shiny strips and chips.
My first thought is of the camshaft and followers. Second is that I'm not driving this engine to Maupin this year. Any cheerful thoughts out there? Please?
Also, how could I evaluate a used replacement engine? Push/pull the crank pulley for "clunk"? Turn the engine and just listen for alien noises? Other considerations?
I'm trying to clean up a spare engine from another bus('77) but don't really know the condition except I thought it ran ok when I drove it two years ago.

Any thoughts appreciated.

How many miles since the last time you cleaned the strainer plate?
Who rebuilt it? Do you know what brand parts were used? How is the engine running? How many miles on it? Any strange valve adjustment variations or repeat offenders? Any weird noises?

You need to distinguish between a slow onset and a quick onset of this debris. I would pull a couple of lifters and look at the bottoms. Keep them indexed to the hole they belong in. If they are torn up and pitted, you do not want the camshaft to get wrecked. Replacement Febi lifters are about $180.00 for eight (though that was several years ago), you will need to do a typical camshaft break-in with new lifters just installed. Then drive it with a keen ear out for noises or difficult starting. Change the oil and clean the strainer plate again. If no metal, drive and drive.
Colin

[mentalQtip]

Thanks Colin.

Probably I cleaned the screen about eight thousand miles ago.
"rebuilt"? You mean the engine? No idea or how many miles since then. I've driven it about thirty thousand miles, I think.
It was running the best ever a few thousand miles ago and starting the best ever. Turn the key and it was running. Then it didn't start quite as well, cranked a bit, and then didn't feel as strong.
The last valve check the #4 exhaust was real tight.

Do I understand that I can pull the lifters without pulling the engine?

Thanks

[ruckman101]

You do understand. Yes.


neal

[Amskeptic]

Thanks Colin.

Probably I cleaned the screen about eight thousand miles ago.
"rebuilt"? You mean the engine? No idea or how many miles since then. I've driven it about thirty thousand miles, I think.
It was running the best ever a few thousand miles ago and starting the best ever. Turn the key and it was running. Then it didn't start quite as well, cranked a bit, and then didn't feel as strong.
The last valve check the #4 exhaust was real tight.

Do I understand that I can pull the lifters without pulling the engine?

Thanks

Assuming that your engine doesn't grenade, we have an appointment on July 30th. Get your to-do list to my PM inbox!
Colin!!

[Bleyseng]

and what kind of oil have you been using?

[mentalQtip]

I've been using Castrol GTX 20-50, only because I think Muir said he used Castrol.
I should also add that the engine is showing signs of age/wear.

#1 75lb
#2 135
#3 130
#4 140

and drips/uses alot of oil, as in something like one quart in 1-2 hundred miles.

It needs alot of help.

gratitude here.

[Xelmon]

Oh man... That blows man, I wish I could help.

Come down to the Lab tomorrow, we meessss u!

[Bleyseng]

Well, when you did the compression test did you squirt some oil into #1 and retest to see if the number got better? If it does then the rings are wearing in it. If not the #1 valves are starting to have a problem and should be repaired before there a bigger problem.

These days the modern oils are lacking in the zinc additive so run a high zinc oil such as Brad Penn (the Green oil) which is the "old" formulation for flat lifter engines including 'merican V8 and VW's.
I would be interesting to pull the lifters to see how they look and a way to also redo the pushrod seals at the same time. The lifters should be all the same length and not have a concave face.

[mentalQtip]

A squirt of oil into #1 raised the compression some. I'm going to try pulling the pushrod tubes and followers per Colin and go from there.

I'll look into the Brad Penn oil. Thanks

Joseph

[sailorkh]

Geno loves Brad Penn

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBrWUF1C ... ure=relmfu

I usually get mine by the case on that auction site...excellent stuff

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190516736447?ss ... 1423.l2649

[mentalQtip]

Ok. Pleading dumb ignorance here. What is the procedure for getting the pushrod tubes out and the followers out? What is the easiest way to do this not damaging the tubes?
Tristessa has already said he thinks that the metal I found in the oil looks like from a bearing. ugh. Double ugh.

[Amskeptic]

Ok. Pleading dumb ignorance here. What is the procedure for getting the pushrod tubes out and the followers out? What is the easiest way to do this not damaging the tubes?
Tristessa has already said he thinks that the metal I found in the oil looks like from a bearing. ugh. Double ugh.

A light squeeze with small visegrips where the tube widens just before it enters the head. Twist the tube and push towards head. It should eventually pop loose from the case. Remove visegrips and pull tube out. The lifter can be pulled out with your finger. May need to clean bore with carb cleaner so there is no "varnish ridge".
Colin

[dtrumbo]

The lifter can be pulled out with your finger.

A magnet-on-a-stick works well too.