Oil Seal (Fan Side) Paranoia

[misszora]

Second time could be the charm. I loosened the bolts on the case just above and below the space where the crankshaft comes through the engine on the fan side. Added a little Permatex for lube and extra seal and tapped the second oil seal (cracked the first one) in as far as I could. Still not flush. I asked Shepski for advice and a little more muscle. He used a plastic scraper to help one edge tuck in and the rest went smoothly. However, there is a little indentation on the outside surface of the oil seal (not the up against the lip of the opening) and I wonder if that will be a problem. Opinions?

Thanks!
- paige


Straight on shot


Flush


Slight indentation - will this be a problem?

[Gypsie]

I am usually the guy that would say 'good enough' in this kind of situation but I will opine that this disfigurement may cause problems.

Here's my reckonin'. The seal is perfectly sized to hold the rubber against the shaft with just enough pressure to create the seal (after having the proper lubricant applied so that the heat of the spinning shaft doesn't warp the rubber). (I presume that you packed the interior cavity of the seal with lube? I don't see any smears inside...) After it goes through it's initial 20 minute breakin' the engine oil and packed grease will provide lubricant from that point on. Any area where the rubber will press harder on the shaft will get warmer and may become damaged.

Considering that the engine is where you can work with it and the seals are fairly cheap you may want to consider the third time's being the charm. It would also be a good time to investigate the outer sidewall of the seal and the inner wall of the case and determine if it is fully seated. It may be that it is fully seated even with the 1-2mm protrusion.

2 cents (man that second paragraph had me sweatin'> Just too many opportunities to be...uh.. to be...Gypsie).

[misszora]

Permatex all round the inside but I did not pack the interior. The DVD doesn't show this step and I did not see this mentioned in the books.

[misszora]

oh yeah, the indentation smoothed out.

[hambone]

It's a cheap part, if in doubt replace. If it's not dented on the shaft side then it's maybe ok.
Grease on the inside really helps. I didn't do it last time and it leaked. Had to pull the engine.

[misszora]

Well, you're right. If I have access to it, I might as well do it right so I have no lingering doubts.
I bought two just in case.

What kinda lube? I have several to choose from.

[Amskeptic]

Well, you're right. If I have access to it, I might as well do it right so I have no lingering doubts.
I bought two just in case.

What kinda lube? I have several to choose from.

Paige,
Think ahead of each operation your perform.

For example, rear main seal.
It has to go in a hole made by two different pieces of metal.
therefore
run your fingernail around the inside of the hole.
Is it perfectly smooth, or are the two pieces of metal (the crankcase halves) slightly not matched?
If your fingernail hangs up, so will the seal. Grab a trusty clean razor blade and drag it over the parting lines inside the hole and particularly over the chamfer around the outside edge. Carefully clean up any aluminum particles.
Yes a light coating of Permatex over the outside of the seal is good.
Tap the seal into the hole with a big socket that only contacts the seal at the outside edge of the seal. You can feel the seal bottom out as you tap.

When you install the fan hub, apply grease to the seal contact surface of the fan hub.
That should do it. And this thread is being shipped from Type 2 to Engine Forum too!
Colin

[misszora]

[
When you install the fan hub, apply grease to the seal contact surface of the fan hub.
That should do it. And this thread is being shipped from Type 2 to Engine Forum too!
Colin

oops...sorry about that. I get a little zombied out on the long days with the engine.
Any particular kind of grease?

[hambone]

Greasy grease, bearing moly it doesn't matter.

[misszora]

I loves me some greasy grease!