external oil coolers?

[Hippie]

what is hot for oil? 240-280?

That is hot for oil. 200-220 is not. Most motor oil begins to lose its lubricity, oxidize, and deposit varnish--all that bad stuff--around 250 F.

Like these guys said though, you shouldn't need any extra oil cooler unless maybe you are racing or running an off-road buggy.
Something is not right with the engine's tuning or mechanical condition, or your gauge is bad.

[urtheiz]

Thanks for all your advice, I pulled the engine today and gonna work on it this weekend. stock vales covers, gonna rebuild the carb (the plugs are brownish white). it's just a stock bus, mostly fwy driving, 65 maybe 70, never in the fast lane.

[dtrumbo]

Your oil never (or shouldn't) gets anywhere near the heads so cooling the oil won't help that particular situation.

Well, sorta. The volume under the valve covers is full of oil mist coming off of the rocker assemblies, which cools off on contact with the valve cover. Which reminds me: got chrome valve covers? If so, get rid of them and put on some good quality old boring black covers. The valve covers help to cool some of the oil by transferring heat to the outside world. As do the pushrod tubes, which drain oil back in to the crankcase. If either one of those items are shiny chrome, the effectiveness of the heat transfer is reduced and oil temperatures go up.
Same goes for those bitchin' aftermarket aluminum bolt-on valve covers, which, in addition to being leak-prone, place an additional mechanical stress on the outer rocker-arm studs.

Oops! Forgot about that. I was thinking the "hot" side of the heads, ie combustion side.

Good on ya 'iz for inspecting the situation further. Let us know what you find and the best of luck on your endeavor!

[bajaman72]

Wish I lived a lil closer I would love to pop in and lend a hand, unfortunatley I was not blessed with a local job. 1.5 hrs each way, I've been driving my baja latley and even in the triple digits yesterday I was flying UP the 14 doin about 75. Inspect under the cylinder covers at your cylinders. Im thinking the fins are full of stuff.

[urtheiz]

my engine update(new, but maybe THE problem)-pulled the engine, took it down to basically long block status. cleaned everything. kept the stock cooler, replaced the oil pump, rebuilt the carb, put in rebuilt generator, etc. etc. was finishing up with the last of it, puttin' the gen belt on before reinstalling it into the bus AND i noticed the gen and crank pully's wern't aligned right!(gen pully was 1/4" -1/2" further back than crank pully) In the bus i don't think i would'd noticed that. Neighbors bug ('67) gen pully's right over the crank one (both stock). my crank pully is an after market "degree'd" pully and the gen one is stock.
Before i proceed any further, does anyone have any advice or words of wisdom to fix this? Thanks!

[RSorak 71Westy]

Maybe you have an early generator on a 71 fan shroud. The 71 generators were longer as they put out more amps.

[urtheiz]

My question is, is it safe to run that way or should i return it and get one that matches and lines up right (which i'm guessing)?

[RSorak 71Westy]

No your belt will not last anytime if the pulleys are not lined up.

[hambone]

Oh I went thru this on an engine I built recently. The crank pulley needed shims (basically fat washers, for a sand seal I think) to push it out further. Worked well, still does and I do not throw belts.

Just make sure the fan shroud is centered on the lower tins, and you've put together the generator/backing plate correctly. Also, look on the generator: bus generators are 38 amp and beetles are 30 amp. Should be stamped right on there.

But don't drive it that way! Fix it first.

[SlowLane]

Just make sure the fan shroud is centered on the lower tins, and you've put together the generator/backing plate correctly. Also, look on the generator: bus generators are 38 amp and beetles are 30 amp. Should be stamped right on there.

And make sure the backing plate is the correct one for the generator. The longer 38A generator needs a "dished" plate, which allows the front face of the longer generator to sit further forward (ie towards the front of the car. Front is front), which brings the generator pulley in line with the crank pulley.

[Amskeptic]

Just make sure the fan shroud is centered on the lower tins, and you've put together the generator/backing plate correctly. Also, look on the generator: bus generators are 38 amp and beetles are 30 amp. Should be stamped right on there.

And make sure the backing plate is the correct one for the generator. The longer 38A generator needs a "dished" plate, which allows the front face of the longer generator to sit further forward (ie towards the front of the car. Front is front), which brings the generator pulley in line with the crank pulley.

The retainer strap has to reside within the lines on the generator. That is your base alignment. Then you get to see of you have the correct backing plate/ pulley/ shims/ fan/housing/ crank pulley/ belt/ retirement plan/ incontinence medication.