Re: Whats w this motor?
Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 8:31 am
why is it that the worst of the worst vw rebuilders are all 3 letter companies?
JCS, GEX and AVP
JCS, GEX and AVP
Tech and Community Help For Air-Cooled VWs
https://itinerant-air-cooled.com/
I hope HFM doesn't join that list, though it could be headed that way.airkooledchris wrote:why is it that the worst of the worst vw rebuilders are all 3 letter companies?
JCS, GEX and AVP
Cuz wee suk.airkooledchris wrote:why is it that the worst of the worst vw rebuilders are all 3 letter companies?
JCS, GEX and AVP
A 20# increase in wet over dry compression reading points to rings, and is mostly expected. You have valve seat recession or wear on #1. You can conceivably do just upper end work if the lower end has easily adjustable end play reading and no known history of lousy oil pressure.AZ Landshaper wrote:Alrighty now that we've created list of don't go theres. Many people want to know where to go. Obv Raby but other options? Anyone ever dealt w the dude now running Boston Bobs operation?
In my case I have done the compression tests and readjusted the valves and run the motor and readjusted valves ( no change) and done a compression test again. Numbers are all above 110 w exception of cyl 1. 80lbs. After a squirt of oil and a few slow revolutions the numbers went up by 20 lbs all around.
I'm judging by that that there may be some valve work required in cyl 1. In addition the exhaust valve adjust screw (on no.1) is quite a bit longer on the outside than the other 4 screws. This is further info leading me to say. Problems in cyl1 w valves.
Looking for some input before I tear this down and start further eval of that area of my motor and don't forget I'm only pulling 11hg of vacuum for some unknown to me reason.
Timing should be OK. Easily adjusted endplay means getting it back within spec through 3 different size shims between the crankshaft and flywheel to keep main bearings happy, if it has good oil pressure as of now, the bottom end should be able to be brought back into spec. I stripped my 2.0 vanagon to the short block, with it still in the bus in a little over three hours. I removed the same engine and had it on an engine stand in short block form in 1 hour 45 min. Its really not a big undertaking considering the size of the vanagon engine bay. A top end build is pretty easy and straightforward. $400 for head machining, new valves and springs. $50 gasket kit, and $190 for new pistons, rings,and cylinders. $650 with you doing the assembly. PM me and I can walk you through the details. Don't buy the video. Ive got you covered there too.AZ Landshaper wrote:I'm under impression that my timing spec is 7.5btdc or 28 WOT hose off. Do you have reason to think otherwise? And what do u mean by easily adjustable end play reading ?
I'll order bug me 8 today. I've got three hours to watch j raby work a type 4.
Guy I used to go off-roading with (fusername on TOS and STF) used to work with Bob as well as the new owner. From what he's told me, it's business as usual.AZ Landshaper wrote:Alrighty now that we've created list of don't go theres. Many people want to know where to go. Obv Raby but other options? Anyone ever dealt w the dude now running Boston Bobs operation?
In my case I have done the compression tests and readjusted the valves and run the motor and readjusted valves ( no change) and done a compression test again. Numbers are all above 110 w exception of cyl 1. 80lbs. After a squirt of oil and a few slow revolutions the numbers went up by 20 lbs all around.
I'm judging by that that there may be some valve work required in cyl 1. In addition the exhaust valve adjust screw (on no.1) is quite a bit longer on the outside than the other 4 screws. This is further info leading me to say. Problems in cyl1 w valves.
Looking for some input before I tear this down and start further eval of that area of my motor and don't forget I'm only pulling 11hg of vacuum for some unknown to me reason.
We all adjust to 28* BTDC @ 3,200-3,400 rpm. I am not suggesting otherwise.AZ Landshaper wrote:I'm under impression that my timing spec is 7.5btdc or 28 WOT hose off. Do you have reason to think otherwise? And what do u mean by easily adjustable end play reading ?
I'll order bug me 8 today. I've got three hours to watch j raby work a type 4.
You won't actually "mess" with crank, you just set its aft, and forth movement so it doesn't beat a main bearing to death and block an oil passage. If you have did a valve job, then pulling pistons and cylinders should be no worries. I forgot you had mentioned your engine code already, 1700cc correct? Your timing will be something ATDC...AZ Landshaper wrote:You have that video? I'd like to see it either way. If you want to part w it or lend it whatever. Sounds like a great way to feed my thirst for more Aircooled information.
Oh man, I need to be more specific, specifically "IF and only if you have / had a vacuum retard unit on your actual engine's distributor, hooked up and functional, would 11 in vacuum be no cause for concern.energyturtle wrote:You won't actually "mess" with crank, you just set its aft, and forth movement so it doesn't beat a main bearing to death and block an oil passage. If you have did a valve job, then pulling pistons and cylinders should be no worries. I forgot you had mentioned your engine code already, 1700cc correct? Your timing will be something ATDC...AZ Landshaper wrote:You have that video? I'd like to see it either way. If you want to part w it or lend it whatever. Sounds like a great way to feed my thirst for more Aircooled information.
Scottie