Bus Rear Brake and Backing Plate Inspection

[Mr Blotto]

A few years back (before I would touch working on my bus), my ACVW mechanic at the time told me that I needed new rear backing plates becuase when he tried to turn the star adjusters (to adjust the brake), the rusted plates prevented him from doing a correct adjustment (I don't know if the adjusters would not turn or if they would not hold). After he adjusted them, my brakes were great for a week or two, then went back out of adjustment. Recently, my parking brake hardly takes hold and the parking brake lever comes almost all the way out with very little resistance. Also, my brake pedal has some initial resistance near the top, but it then loosens up 3/4 way from the top, then catches for good at half-way (does that make sense????).

Could the backing plates really be casing these issues?

I am contemplating redoing the brakes myself My only other experience with brakes is when I replaced the front rotors, and calipers on my old Toyota 4x4 pickup. I don't like messing with those springs on rear drum brakes!

Thanks

[Vdubtech]

There are only two springs on Bus rear brakes. It's almost idiot proof. Back plates can be a problem if they're rusted or if the little "arms" for the star adjusters are broken off. They prevent the adjusters fram backing back up after they're adjusted, and are only available with backing plates. If the adjusters are simply frozen, take them apart, clean up the threads with a wire wheel or a wire brush, anti seize the shit out of em and put it all back together. Rear brakes on a Bus are one of the easiest ones out there. You can do it. Take it one wheel at a time (ONLY DISASSEMBLE ONE WHEEL AT A TIME) so that when you forget how something goes, you still have the other wheel as a reference. Take it apart and assess what you're going to need. If the wheel cylinders are questionable, replace them. They're cheap. Same goes for shoes, hardware, e-brake cables, etc etc. Figure out what you need, get the parts, grab your Bentley and dive in.

Take this:


And turn it into this:

[Mr Blotto]

Thanks VDub...

Other than leaking, are there any other visual signs that the wheel cylinders are bad? Should I just plan on replacing them?

Also, if I put new shoes on, do I have to get the drums resurfaced, or can I get away with not?

Lasty, any special tools needed for this, including removing the big hub nut to replace the backing plate?

Guess I shoulda posted this in the "Brakes" forum ......my bad. HEY WAIT - IT WAS MOVED - THAT WAS FAST!!!

[Amskeptic]

Thanks VDub...

Other than leaking, are there any other visual signs that the wheel cylinders are bad? Should I just plan on replacing them?

Also, if I put new shoes on, do I have to get the drums resurfaced, or can I get away with not?

Lasty, any special tools needed for this, including removing the big hub nut to replace the backing plate?

Guess I shoulda posted this in the "Brakes" forum ......my bad.

Wetness is your clue. Be sure to check under the rubber boot lips at each wheel cylinder end.

Do NOT turn your priceless drums unless you have a pedal that pulsates under your foot. Use the 45* cross-hatch sanding method with 180 or 220 grit paper.

Big nut could use a 3/4" breaker bar and pipe cheater, or one of those trick nut holder/hammer bashers.

OMG, we're in "Brakes" now. You are no longer "bad".
Colin

[Mr Blotto]

Do NOT turn your priceless drums unless you have a pedal that pulsates under your foot.

No pulsating at all, so no turning for me!

Now, just gotta scrape some cash together to get the parts...

Thanks

[Manfred]

What are you guys painting your backing plates and hubs with, POR-15?

[Vdubtech]

I used Krylon gloss black. Hit everything with a wire brush first, couple good coats of primer, then a couple good coats of paint. It dries in 10 minutes and looks pretty good.

[chitwnvw]

What are you guys painting your backing plates and hubs with, POR-15?

Anything is better than nothing. Clean, clean. Some rust killer followed by a coat of something something.