Heater tube "Y" rusted away: Simple Fixes?

[jules]

Hi,

The Y junction of heater tubes, where the right and left side heat streams meet, has almost completely rusted away underneath the (fiberglass?) insulation.

Anyone have and cheap solutions? For instance, in the past, to fix the long run center tube I've successfully employed stovepipe and clothes dryer tubing.

Before I go out and start aimlessly wandering around Home Depot and Lowes does anyone know of any commonly available home products I can use to fab up a new "Y"

thanks
jules
(various buses in various states of functionality)

[vwlover77]

I think I would try to fashion a new one by bending up two sheets of aluminum to make top and bottom halves of the Y and then pop-riveting them together.

(My center pipe is currently 3 inch black PVC pipe with flexible plumbing couplings connecting it to the Y-pipe and distribution plenum!)

[grandfatherjim]

I think I would try to fashion a new one by bending up two sheets of aluminum to make top and bottom halves of the Y and then pop-riveting them together.

(My center pipe is currently 3 inch black PVC pipe with flexible plumbing couplings connecting it to the Y-pipe and distribution plenum!)

The VW mechanic up the road tells me that guys used to make the Y out of black PVC fittings too, and that they can take the heat oK. Looking under mine at the time I didn't think there was room for much of a diameter of pipe though.
Haven't gone any furthur, but have the same dilemma of which you speak.
Heat someday,
Jim

[Westy78]

I'd be worried about the off gassing of the PVC. Not the best smelling stuff when heated and those tubes get up above 120° if your heating system is in decent shape. I'd try to fab something out of HVAC piping first.

[grandfatherjim]

Now that you mention it, maybe the black drain/waste/vent stuff is ABS. Not sure whether that makes a difference re: off gasing as I have a mental block about chemistry and plastic...

Jim

[satchmo]

I would check the wrecking yards, Busted Bus, and theBusCo to see if they have that part.

http://bustedbus.com/Default.aspx

http://www.thebusco.com/

Tim

[jules]

1 Piece of 3" Galvanized heat ducting
2 3" adjustable duct junctions
sheet metal screws
hose clamps
metalic tape

Total cost ~ $20

result, working junction:



It took a little bit of work getting the angles right and cutting the duct junctions correctly. Then I used a few sheet metal screws to join it all together and the metallic tape to seal the joints airtight.

progress.

[Amskeptic]

It took a little bit of work getting the angles right and cutting the duct junctions correctly. Then I used a few sheet metal screws to join it all together and the metallic tape to seal the joints airtight.

That looks pretty serviceable. =D> Have you tested the heat yet?
Colin

[jules]

We're getting there. At idle I was able to confirm that warm air was making it to the front distribution pipe junction underneath the splash pan.

Looks like the 1600 in this bus is now leaking oil... will have to investigate and fix before I can take a long drive and really test the heat.

So many projects so little time.

[ruckman101]

So many projects, so little time. I hear that.

I haven't even taken the moment it takes to shimmy under my bus to close my flaps that the less than robust heat that manages to enter into the equation can. And here it's our first onslaught of wintry freezing maybe snow weather. I'm real scared to remove the insulation on my center pipe. I've heard it may be the only thing of the assembly providing structural integrity.

Sigh.



neal

[Sylvester]

I'm real scared to remove the insulation on my center pipe. I've heard it may be the only thing of the assembly providing structural integrity.

Me too, when that happens it will be a whopper of a day. I think mine is a cardboard tube with insulation and plastic covering it. What has people used to replace that long tube? PVC pipe?

[jules]

For replacement of the long run I'd recommend:

Inner tube: 3" Galvanized heat duct, two pieces, if I remember correctly.
Outer insulating layer: flexible 4" dryer exhaust hose.
An assortment of large clamps (two 4" and two 3")

Another under $20 repair.

[Sylvester]

For replacement of the long run I'd recommend:

Inner tube: 3" Galvanized heat duct, two pieces, if I remember correctly.
Outer insulating layer: flexible 4" dryer exhaust hose.
An assortment of large clamps (two 4" and two 3")

Another under $20 repair.

Sounds like a heating and air conditioning installers easy task! Wait till I go to Lowe's to buy this and tell the salesman where it is going.

I appreciate you posting this fix, I will need to do this and now have a weekend Bus project lined up sometime in January.

[JereandJess]

I would check the wrecking yards, Busted Bus, and theBusCo to see if they have that part.

http://bustedbus.com/Default.aspx

http://www.thebusco.com/

Tim

We got the unit from Ken at thebusco.com for $45 I believe. I used an angle grinder to release the old rusted part out. There were a few (3 I believe) that needed to be ground off. It then just popped off, slid the new one in and had our neighbor tack weld it in.

Ken was even able to give us a green one, so it matches our sage green perfectly!

Finding the replacement for the long center tube is certainly harder. I like the idea posted above of the galvanized tubing. Would love to see someone do a photo documentation of the job....

[Hippie]

Very clever. =D>