Crikey! Not Again.

[ruckman101]

I'm on hold a bit. Seriously breached integrity of that seal there on the transaxle side of the CV assembly.

Gave the axles a look and there is a ridge there for the no longer needed washer, that suggests it could perhaps be included, dished away from the CV, but it was a speculative dry run, and none of the new CVs slid easily onto the axles. Gonna take a vice and a bit of persuasion.

I do admit, the bit of engineering there eludes my search for purpose or need. But if it fits, why not?


neal

[Amskeptic]

I'm on hold a bit. Seriously breached integrity of that seal there on the transaxle side of the CV assembly.

Gave the axles a look and there is a ridge there for the no longer needed washer, that suggests it could perhaps be included, dished away from the CV, but it was a speculative dry run, and none of the new CVs slid easily onto the axles. Gonna take a vice and a bit of persuasion.

I do admit, the bit of engineering there eludes my search for purpose or need. But if it fits, why not?


neal

I use the concave washer. It keeps the inner hub from moving on the driveshaft, it keeps the circlip bound in its groove. Over time, axial movement will erode the splines and bang up the circlips. I have happened across inner hubs that just fall off the axles once this erosion takes hold. Do NOT HAMMER the inner hubs off the driveshaft, as seen in the Type2 write-up. That beavered shoulder is ugly. A simple two-jawed puller is the humane way to go.

Orientation:
The single ridge line on the outer hub faces the flange to which it is bolted.

I have seen the inner hub shoulder both ways, but generally I put the smooth flat edge of the inner hub against the concave washer (bottom of the dish against the ridge on the driveshaft itself)

The cage has a subtle chamfer on the inside edge on one side only. This chamfer goes towards the drive axle. It allows the axle shaft to rotate nearby at a nasty angle without touching.

Cleanliness is so critical, but we can get lazy around the mess.
Colin

[ruckman101]

I totally missed the chamfer on the one side of the inner cage, but luckily only had to dismantle one assembly to set it straight.

Single groove to the flange



Concave washer in place, dish out. If it were dish in, I'm certain the circlip would never properly seat. Flat side of inner race to washer.



Circlip properly seated, raised side of inner race to flange.



No chamfer on this side of cage.



Chamfer. I think I got it.



Mushroom.



Mushroom.



Mushroom.



Back yard.



Already had snow mixed in with the rain the other morning. Cold. Sorry, no kittens. Onto the grease.



neal

[ruckman101]

Ok, maybe a couple kitten shots.








There ya go, had to get the cute factor back. I know Hambone would be disappointed otherwise.
neal

[tristessa]

mmm .. delicious kittens.

[hambone]

Eating? I thought they were for

[dtrumbo]

Hopefully that engine will purr just as sweet!

[Amskeptic]

Concave washer in place, dish out. If it were dish in, I'm certain the circlip would never properly seat. Flat side of inner race to washer.

Concave washer goes the other way, Sr. Certain.

The outside edge of the concave washer spreads its force against the flat surface of the inner hub. The inside edge of the concave washer butts against the ridge on the driveshaft. It is SUPPOSED to be compressed as you seat the circlip! That is what keeps things nice and tight even when the driveshaft gets a workout. It is not difficult to seat the circlip with the concave washer in place. You merely press down on the edges of the circlip with your fingers as you spread the edges with your expanding pliers so you can push the circlip over the entire end of the driveshaft. Once it is going down to meet the driveshaft groove-almost-hidden-by-the-hub, you just hit the circlip with a hammer on a 30? 36? mm socket over the end of the driveshaft and it plinks into place in the groove, oh ye of little faith.
Colin
(do not worry about it at this point in time, the fact that it is present at all, will limit movement)

[ruckman101]

Dang it. They're all lubed up and in place. Just need to torque them down. Would have had the engine in today at the latest if my back hadn't decided to treat me to excruciating pain upon the slightest movement. Just got back from the chiropractor, no miracles.

Going to supervise Cheryle through the process Saturday. She won't let me near Bertha at this point.



I'm going to cry,
neal

[hambone]

I wish you were closer, we could save our sob-water and make some kind of winter sake.
Hang in there, it's all you can do. I would help you if I wasn't up to my ears in my own cat-asstrophy.

[Amskeptic]

I wish you were closer, we could save our sob-water and make some kind of winter sake.
Hang in there, it's all you can do. I would help you if I wasn't up to my ears in my own cat-asstrophy.

I'll join in and we can have hot sake.
Hot Tears for Hot Heads.

[ruckman101]

How many steps back?

My snip fashioned cylinder head deflector tins seemed to work pretty well. Here's the thermostat side. Rod moves freely.



However, something is off.



I get the thermostat threaded on, and the rod must be backwards somehow with the little bit of curve, as the bracket won't even touch the stud much less tighten down. Sure, I could tighten it down, but then everything would be bound up and inoperable.



Here it is, pulled down, flaps closed. Rather than spacers and a longer stud, gonna have to pull the shroud and scratch my head some and get this figured out. At least I decided to get the thermostat adjusted before engine went into Bertha.




neal

[Amskeptic]

the bracket won't even touch the stud much less tighten down.

Was this the case before your head deflectors were installed?

If yes, rod may be in wrong hole passing through the head.

If no, fix the head deflector position.

Colin

[ruckman101]

This was the first time I had tried to mount the thermostat into it's bracket. Rod is fine at it's current relaxed position in terms of working the flaps. So I'm pretty sure it's a rod issue. Although, I referenced positioning based on Bertha's set-up, obviously not necessarily a proper set-up, but it worked.

Rod is fed through the cylinder head hole closest to the case, but the end curve would at first glance appear to be 90 degrees off. Processing, processing, yes, haven't left out the deflector orientation as a potential conflict, either.


neal

[SlowLane]

Hey Neal, I think you have the deflector installed the wrong way around. Both Colin's original photo and my Beetle Bentley show the slot facing towards the cylinder side of the head, not the rocker side.