New Owner, 70' Fasty

[Amskeptic]

I'd like to crash that party where in NY?

[wdollie6]

Colin,

My information comes from thesamba, see below:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... t=invasion

Ticonderoga, NY

We have confirmed dates for the 2024 Invasion!

June 20-23, 2024

My goal is to be ready, in whatever form that may be!

Wayne

[wdollie6]

Finally making some consistent progress. Most of paint removed, roof ding repairs fixed, moving on to the frunk hood which will be a challenge of its own as it has some challenging rust spots under the front lip. Not quite sure yet how to repair that, but will figure it out, like everything else.

Also used some Eastwood cavity product to coat the boxed cavities where the rear bumper mounts are located. Obviously can't see the coverage but had the fluid (whatever it is) flow out of several locations, regardless it will be protected better than it was. Utilized this for several other locations where it will be difficult to get painted, channel in rear trunk sides where the foam is located, rear of heater channels, etc..

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[wdollie6]

Over the last few days finished the body work on the nose, the rear valence and started on the front hood.

The nose was terribly dinged up from the apparent accident it was in at some point in its long life. Took quite a few hours to get everything flat and the edges on the nose straight. Looks presentable now. The rear valence wasn't as bad but I had to some rust repairs, which didn't go well, hopefully once the end product has some epoxy primer on it it will look okay.

Still haven't fixed the hood rust at the front edge as it is a little complicated. The inner panel is rusted to the point where the metal is gone, i.e. no longer in the outer skin crimp. I may shortcut this repair and look for a new hood as i am afraid if I unbend the crimp on the front, to remove the rusted inner piece, it may twist to the point of no recovery. I may repair the rust holes on the outer skin, remove what I can of the rust, rust convert, then use JB Weld as a filler. I know that isn't the proper way to complete this repair but in the interest of getting this done will give it a shot.

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[wdollie6]

Finally had the opportunity to epoxy primer the body, temps in the high 60s with lower humidity. All of the fenders, doors, hoods, etc. have all ready been epoxy primed and have been sanded down to 400 grit, they are ready for color... although I am not. I chose a single stage acrylic urethane (deep sea green, original color) and have read forum after forum that indicates the single stage products are difficult to work with. So I am a little hesitant to take the next step, especially based on limited painting experience (epoxy primer, yup first time), but frankly if the weather holds out I am going to attempt the body as it is all taped out and with a few small fixes (nose still needs more work) can be ready for a top coat.

I would like to get the body done and the doors so that I may begin reassembly of the car. The fenders and hoods can be done later if I run out of good weather.

The 5 year project continues!

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[wdollie6]

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Deep Sea Green in the house!

[wdollie6]

A lot darker than I anticipated, closer to black than green! Bugs were definitely an issue painting outdoors, to be expected, I yearn for a paint booth.

My wife, who originally wanted orange absolutely loves this color. The only orange was orange peel I'll have to take care.
Another first, painting top coat (only doors and frunk section for now.

Looks like a good painting window next week so will attempt to finish everything else. This allows for winter assembly.

[wdollie6]

The painting continues with an eye on reassembly of the car prior to the New Year. Had to repaint the doors as I had noticeable stripes from my inexperience with painting in general. Sanded them down and repainted, much better. I'll say it again, love this color.

Drooling in Delhi! Oh, and I still need a new nose section as to some degree I'm putting lipstick on a pig in that area. Had no luck finding one so moved forward but at some point it needs to be replaced as it is rough.

[wdollie6]

Apologize for the lack of pictures but the doors are now built up, fairly easy when you use this procedure from Colin:

https://itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewto ... 49&t=11341

Made the assembly much easier, although I struggled with the quality of the parts, however its done and they look better than any doors I had done previously.

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[wdollie6]

Also have this pile of parts to work with although the body has yet to be painted. Hopefully the paint booth will be available tomorrow. In addition to fenders and doors both hoods are now painted.

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I was hoping that the car would start once everything was back together but have had several problems pop up. First I found two of the bodies leaking on the fuel injectors so I replaced all 4 with SMP injectors from Rock Auto. They are installed and working however still wouldn't start. Ensured that the pressure was 28 psi (noted that it would drop back to 22 psi and hold, never had that good of an outcome before) and that there was fuel at all locations, checked and adjusted the point gap, validated that timing was correct, checked valve clearance, but still no go. Spraying a tad of carb cleaner created temporary life which suggest a fuel issue but I couldn't find the cause. I need to validate that the injectors are firing, yes the ground wires are cleaned and tight.

Will spend a little more time with it tomorrow before she heads to the paint booth.

[wdollie6]

So after 3 or 4 hours focused on resolving the no run condition I am no further ahead. Here are some of the steps I took:

1. Checked continuity of injector wires from controller to injector. All good. Did the same with grounds all good.

2. Checked voltage at each injector with key on and was surprised to see voltage, 12.5 volts, at each injector no matter where I rotated the engine. What in the world would cause that scenario. I pulled the distributor and then the trigger points to take a closer look, both appeared to be fine. Checked resistance at the trigger points and they were well within spec. Reassembled everything, reset static timing and same results.

3. My next step will be to focus on the TVS to see if somehow that is causing the constantly present voltage at the injectors. Not likely but worth the time to check. I pulled the wires at both the Trigger Points and the TVS and was surprised to see that the voltage was still constant at all injectors, WOW!

So now I am wondering if I have a Controller issue as why else would there be constant voltage at the injectors, makes no sense.

HELP! Hoping someone will look at this and provide some direction. I realize after today's efforts that I definitely need a new Fuel Injection harness as this one has seen better days, that being said it doesn't explain why the injectors have constant voltage. Again, the controller might be the issue, although it has been safely stored since I began the body work.

Frustrating but will continue to move forward. Looking forward to some technical feedback on this issue as I am apparently lost in the upstate NY wilderness, at least with this issue.

[Amskeptic]

So after 3 or 4 hours focused on resolving the no run condition I am no further ahead. Here are some of the steps I took:

1. Checked continuity of injector wires from controller to injector. All good. Did the same with grounds all good.

2. Checked voltage at each injector with key on and was surprised to see voltage, 12.5 volts, at each injector no matter where I rotated the engine. What in the world would cause that scenario. I pulled the distributor and then the trigger points to take a closer look, both appeared to be fine. Checked resistance at the trigger points and they were well within spec. Reassembled everything, reset static timing and same results.

3. My next step will be to focus on the TVS to see if somehow that is causing the constantly present voltage at the injectors. Not likely but worth the time to check. I pulled the wires at both the Trigger Points and the TVS and was surprised to see that the voltage was still constant at all injectors, WOW!

So now I am wondering if I have a Controller issue as why else would there be constant voltage at the injectors, makes no sense.

HELP! Hoping someone will look at this and provide some direction. I realize after today's efforts that I definitely need a new Fuel Injection harness as this one has seen better days, that being said it doesn't explain why the injectors have constant voltage. Again, the controller might be the issue, although it has been safely stored since I began the body work.

Frustrating but will continue to move forward. Looking forward to some technical feedback on this issue as I am apparently lost in the upstate NY wilderness, at least with this issue.

All injectors have 12 volts any time that the ignition is on. This improves their response time. The ECU grounds the injectors to fire them.
Figure out which of the two terminals inside of each injector plug has the 12 volts. The other must not have voltage. Make a little red sharpie marker mark on the side of the plug that has the 12 volts. The other side should give a little pulse/flash during cranking or running. Noid testers are good at this, test lights less so. I think you merely have an injection ground wire disconnected or bad.

[wdollie6]

While waiting for paint booth to have availability for painting the body I have taken some time to pull out the parts and pieces of vinyl and matting that I had saved from the Frunk and Trunk. These have been waiting in a box patiently (5 years plus) while I have been taking my merry time on the rest of the car. Probably wouldn't have messed with these at all except I stumbled across them while looking for a few parts that I'm missing (still missing). I layed them out in the car using common sense, but someone let me know if they are incorrect. When I pulled the car apart I also saved the matting that was underneath (asphalt ) but that is in poorer condition. Need to find some other, more modern, product to replace that, appears that the height is critical as it levels it out with the engine hatch.

Since these are in reasonably good condition I am hoping that I can clean them up and flatten enough to be reused. Does anyone have experience, or tips, on how to do that?

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