Itinerant Air-Cooled

But not big enough to catch the bumper.





New exhaust, too. Straightened pretty easy with a long pipe slid over the pea shooter.





JB Weld?



neal

Try JB but that will be a trouble spot, hot and eventually rusty. A real weld would be better. Do it before it oxidizes.

ruckman101 wrote: JB Weld?
neal

Can't handle exhaust temperatures. A silicate-rich muffler putty may do the trick, but get the kind that requires water to activate, press it in enough to lock in the inside a bit. Clean artfully on the outside so it is smooth and not too thick. Avoid big rocks in the Ghia. Take the bus . . .
Colin

Fogged frosty windows, unfamiliar territory, early morning, reverse. Glad it bent back ok without snapping off.


neal

What about brazing it? Or even a quick weld-bead.

hambone wrote:What about brazing it? Or even a quick weld-bead.

Actually, my father-in-law (still getting used to that) recently picked up some goop he used to repair cracks in a wood stove. I think that will be the ticket.


neal

Wood stoves aren't under as much pressure as exhaust though....

Neither is neal, I'm guessing

Hey....man....like, pressure? So unchill.


neal

I went with the product my father-in-law had, which is actually made expressly for exhaust repairs.



Got things cleaned up some.



And applied.



I'll hit it with a touch of paint after the heat cure. The stuff is supposed to be good up to 1,000 degrees. We will see.


neal

Day tripper!

ruckman101 wrote:I went with the product my father-in-law had, which is actually made expressly for exhaust repairs.

I'll hit it with a touch of paint after the heat cure. The stuff is supposed to be good up to 1,000 degrees.
We will see.

neal

Let us know. That stuff looks interesting. Does it store well? That big can looks like it serve your needs for many decades.
Colin

It's actually a pretty small can. It was the dickens to stir up, but it did. According to the label, a shelf life of a year after opening, longer if you top the contents with a layer of their recommended thinning agent, which we don't have. Thinking of applying it to the heater boxes, as they are kinda loose at the exhaust pipes exchanger assemblies that go through them. A twenty four hour dry time between layers of no more than 1/4 inch, and then ideally heat cured at 400 degrees for a bit. In this case, running the engine.


day trippin' along,
neal