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Amskeptic
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by Amskeptic » Thu Oct 05, 2017 5:31 am
71whitewesty wrote: ↑Wed Oct 04, 2017 5:52 pm
No compression check yet. I just started it and swapped spots with bus 2. I believe the compression is good just the way it feels now compared to Bus 2. But still not running right. Runs much better when it's cold and the choke is still on.
And the truth of the matter is my pressure gauge has never been taken out of the package. I have never ever done a compression check, ever. Jeezus, you guys are going to make me open that thing up aren't you?!
Well, that is a fascinating new factoid. It runs well when the choke is on? Too lean when warm. NOTE the position of the mixture screw, and turn it out when warm. Does idle improve? Do you need to increase idle speed regardless? Then you turn out the big brass screw. They work together. If this is a Volksbitz carburetor rebuild, you might want to communicate with your vendor. Float levels and jet sizes and stuff . . . your electromagnetic cut-off IS working correctly, yes? Ignition on, engine off, pull wire, nice click at solenoid?
Brake booster hose is NOT leaking?
Colin
(if you successfully knock this out, you will be freed from compression test)
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
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71whitewesty
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by 71whitewesty » Thu Oct 05, 2017 9:01 pm
Yes a freshly rebuilt volksbitz 34 pic 3, German even.
Not much time today but took it for a 10 mile drive, now have 23 miles on it. Still trying to get timing and idle to settle I. Timing it now by ear, sort of.
But now distracted by is oil leak. It's leaking a drop a second. Far as I can tell it's coming from the area right around the moustash mount, upper right threaded bolt. Not coming out of the bolt but that area. Can't see it yet though. There's a plug above it and a couple case bolts near by but they don't seem to be leaking. Really leaking though. Not sure if it's coming out of the pulley either. I'll keep digging into it...been a bit busy with other things too, like getting the sno cat ready and getting me ready to do a windsurf contest on Maui and work and kids and you get the picture. I must figure out the leak.
Ps the 10 mile drive was ok but would die when I'd let off the gas and come up to a stop sign. I keep advancing it and I think it helps. Power is ok once it hits the right rpm.
Idle cut off is working and brakes feel good and no leaking that I can tell. Sprayed a fair amount of carb cleaner around today and no signs of a leak.
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Amskeptic
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by Amskeptic » Fri Oct 06, 2017 8:46 am
71whitewesty wrote: ↑Thu Oct 05, 2017 9:01 pm
A) Still trying to get timing and idle to settle.
B) oil leak. It's leaking a drop a second.
C) keep advancing it and I think it helps.
a/c) Don't muck with the timing. YES, it improves "performance" to advance the timing, but it is wrong, it is "meth" it is "crack" it is "speed" it is wrong. PLEASE swap another 34 Pict 3 carb onto the engine, and see if it idles correctly.
b) way no good, there is a gallery plug for the #3/4 main bearings under the pulley area you might want to clean/check (I also "painted" the block off plate hole). It should be easy to find at that prodigious bleed rate.
![Image](http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x133/73VW1800/misc%20ii/Gallery%20Plugs.jpg)
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
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71whitewesty
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by 71whitewesty » Fri Oct 06, 2017 9:56 am
Ok. I can swap a carb pretty easy. On the oil leak, I think I might have to put a jack under the engine and pull off the moustash bar and see if I can find it. Been looking hard but just can't see the source yet. If I'm careful it shouldn't do any damage to start it up and let it run without the moustash bar on there. I'd support the engine with the floor jack. Not ideal but not sure how else to do it.
And I do know that advancing it is like crack. I had a very similar thread on this issue a few years ago on the samba and it ended up being to far retarded due to mismarked timing marks made by me. On this engine the distributor can is turned to the right more than my other bus (counter clockwise) . But also wonder how the dist gear is lined up on this one. ..
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71whitewesty
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by 71whitewesty » Fri Oct 06, 2017 1:28 pm
Quick update. I have all the tin and crank pulley off looking for the oil leak. I'm going to start it and run it a minute or so and see if I can see the leak. Engine is cold now. Never ran the engine with out the pulley so feel free to stop me if needed.
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71whitewesty
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by 71whitewesty » Fri Oct 06, 2017 2:04 pm
I let it run about 3 or 4 minutes. No real obvious leak, it probably has to heat up more, but I'd guess it's coming out of the pump itself. Mainly the top of it. I'm going to take the cover off and pump out and have a look.
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by Amskeptic » Sat Oct 07, 2017 4:41 am
71whitewesty wrote: ↑Fri Oct 06, 2017 2:04 pm
I let it run about 3 or 4 minutes. No real obvious leak, it probably has to heat up more, but I'd guess it's coming out of the pump itself. Mainly the top of it. I'm going to take the cover off and pump out and have a look.
Kudos to your perseverence. Engine runs fine without pulleys for a while, let's say 3-4 minutes with five minute cool-downs in between, maybe three times. That should help you find the leak.
Oil pump. Does it have a big aftermarket steel plate? A stock plate? I have not had good luck with those red sealing nuts. I use real washers, real steel nuts, and only the finest Permatex Aviation sealant.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
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71whitewesty
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by 71whitewesty » Sun Oct 08, 2017 9:48 am
Ok here's the latest. I believe the leak is fixed now. I just took it out for a 10 mile drive and it's dry as a bone underneath. All I did was switch the pulley. Took off the brand new empi degree pulley and put a stock one on. Looking at the backs of each pulley, there is much more meat on the stock one where it slips over the crank, also has those groovy grooves to keep the oil in. Seems to be working like a champ. Also a touch larger in diameter cause I had to add several shims between the generator pulley to get the belt to fit right.
Before I switched the pulleys though I stared down that engine several times with it running and no pulley on to find the leak. Could not see it coming out of the oil pump and it took a while to see just a bit coming from the crank shaft area, so I figured I'd try another pulley. For sure no leaks from the case plugs or where the case splits. I actually think it's fixed now.
Still working on the timing and idle though. It wants to stumble when idle drops down, like when you pull up to a stop sign. I'll start trouble shooting more with the suggestions. It's running pretty good but I'm timing by ear at the moment.
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wcfvw69
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by wcfvw69 » Sun Oct 08, 2017 9:59 am
What distributor are you running on this engine? You said it's a dual port with a Volkzbitz restored German Solex 34-3 carb. Is the distributor a DVDA or SVDA? If it's a Bosch, what's the number on it? It should have a number like 113905205AN or similar.
1970 Westfalia bus. Stock 1776 dual port type 1 engine. Restored German Solex 34-3. Restored 205Q distributor, restored to factory appearance engine.
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71whitewesty
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by 71whitewesty » Sun Oct 08, 2017 10:43 am
I'm running a dvda 205q distributor. I have a few of them and I've tried two in this engine and they are working the same.
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by Amskeptic » Sun Oct 08, 2017 11:12 am
71whitewesty wrote: ↑Sun Oct 08, 2017 10:43 am
I'm running a dvda 205q distributor. I have a few of them and I've tried two in this engine and they are working the same.
Did you swap cars in the middle of all of this? Or are we dealing with the Volksbitz carb still?
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
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71whitewesty
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by 71whitewesty » Sun Oct 08, 2017 11:33 am
Still on the newly rebuilt voksbitz. Have not switched carbs yet. Idle screw will shut the engine off if screwed in a few turns. Only accelerates a bit when loosened up. Fuel mixture screw I screwed out one turn and just today turned it back to where it was, one turn in. Seems like some kind of vacuum leak around the low rpm range.
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wcfvw69
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by wcfvw69 » Sun Oct 08, 2017 2:27 pm
71whitewesty wrote: ↑Sun Oct 08, 2017 10:43 am
I'm running a dvda 205q distributor. I have a few of them and I've tried two in this engine and they are working the same.
Nice! My favorite distributor for a type 1 engine dual port bus. You've checked the vacuum canisters with a vacuum gauge to insure they both are working and HOLD vacuum? The carb Tim restored was set up for a DVDA? Those distributors time at 5* ATDC and I've found that having the dashpot in place on the carb helps during quick deceleration or quick off acceleration to idle.
1970 Westfalia bus. Stock 1776 dual port type 1 engine. Restored German Solex 34-3. Restored 205Q distributor, restored to factory appearance engine.
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by 71whitewesty » Tue Oct 10, 2017 8:38 am
I've put another 15 miles on it and still dry as a bone with no leaks. Still need to deal with the timing and idle drop but it's not too bad driving it around now. I'll be messing more with it but have been distracted by the sno cat and removing the pontoons for repair before winter hits. I'll keep updating this until I get it running perfect.
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by 71whitewesty » Sat Oct 21, 2017 8:08 am
Well it's been raining and winter is coming fast around here. Still distracted with the sno cat needed some attention and snow on the way. I'm now a certified Tucker pontoon puller. It sorta like changing a wheel with a few extra steps to it.
But when the rain lets up I've been driving Bus1 locally and now have about 85 miles on it. Still dry as a bone as far as oil leaks and all I did was change the Pulley back to a stock one. It's actually running pretty good too. Still haven't changed the carb or compression tested but I'm sure the compression is good because there is plenty of power (relatively speaking). Does still have a little idle drop and mostly timing by ear cause the marks are not lining up right, but running well enough to take on a trip I think. I will play around with carb adjustments and timing some more as I drive it. Bus 1 and Bus 2 are starting snuggle up under the carport though and the new car with heated seat sits outside ready to do battle with our PNW winters.