'75 Turn signal cancelling
- chitwnvw
- Resident Troublemaker
- Location: Chicago.
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'75 Turn signal cancelling
How does the '75 bus cancel the turn signal? Can find the older mechanical style in the Bentley, but not the newer (electrical?) ones.
- spiffy
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Walla Walla, WA
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- chitwnvw
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- Location: Chicago.
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It blinks fine, just after you turn it doesn't turn itself off.spiffy wrote:Different critter but I tried to clean out the switch pod on the 67 and I still have to hold it at stops so it will blink. Prolly have to get a new one....last I checked they were over $100
Yeah, f**k that
Looks like $52 bucks for me
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/Detai ... 211953513K
But I was hoping for a little elbow grease and a price tag of zero!
- skin daddio
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chitwnvw wrote:It blinks fine, just after you turn it doesn't turn itself off.spiffy wrote:Different critter but I tried to clean out the switch pod on the 67 and I still have to hold it at stops so it will blink. Prolly have to get a new one....last I checked they were over $100
Yeah, f**k that
Looks like $52 bucks for me
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/Detai ... 211953513K
But I was hoping for a little elbow grease and a price tag of zero!
i believe it has a wavy spring and two plastic tabs and if one tab is broken off your ska-rood. real easy fix brah, get the horn button off, look for the three parts, and get them back together with replacements. no need for a whole new switch here.
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I don't know if the '75 is the same as a '77. On a '77 there is an allen head socket screw that is recessed into a hole in the plastic housing by your left knee. Loosen the screw and lift the whole ass'y up toward the steering wheel. There should be a very small gap between the steering wheel hub and the turnsignal wiper switch housing. If your horn doesn't work you may find that it works after you lift the housing back up to where it belongs. On mine I had to go find a new screw that was a wee bit longer. The clamp is only made of pot metal and the threads were a bit munged up. The longer screw reached in far enough to engage good threads and I haven't had a problem with it for 2 years. I found the screw in a hardware store nuts and bolts section. Brought the old screw with me to determine the proper size and pitch. Cost maybe 30 cents.
1/20/2013 end of an error
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
- chitwnvw
- Resident Troublemaker
- Location: Chicago.
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I think I am on to something thanks to vdub73. Except I don't have anything in that hole. When I peer into the hole in the plastic shell I see all the way through the metal bracket. When I lift up the assembly I get my turn signal canceling and even a horn! Never had a working stock horn. But then it slides down within a minute of driving.vdubyah73 wrote:I don't know if the '75 is the same as a '77. On a '77 there is an allen head socket screw that is recessed into a hole in the plastic housing by your left knee.
I went to grab the screw off of my parts bus and it has a funky round looking cone in the hole, which I have no idea on how to remove.
Any ideas? How do you get the plastic outer shell off? Do I have to remove the steering wheel and work my way down? Sure like an easy fix on this one...
-
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Don't remember the pitch or diameter but it is about the same as the tin screws or cv joint bolts. Someone else may chime in with the size, or go to the hardware store and buy a couple different sizes in that are close to that. trial and error, it'll cost less than a rack of brew. Then either return the ones that don't fit or toss 'em in your nut and bolt bucket.
1/20/2013 end of an error
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
- karl
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- Location: Coos Bay, Oregon
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That was a shear-head bolt. It was made as a anti-theft device. The head shears off after you tighten it. Read this post I did on the type 2 list:
http://www.type2.com/archive/type2/047997.html
Yes they cancel. 2 things can be wrong: 1)The hub which holds the turn
signal/wiper switch has slid down or 2) the cancelling spring has fallen
off.
For the 1st one: Look between the steering wheel and the black section below
it. On the right side you will see the cancel leg. How much of a gap is
there? Barely any or over 1/4"?
For the 2nd one: Get a 24mm socket. Remove the black horn button with a
little screwdriver. The silver ring STAYS on the wheel. Pop the button out
of the silver ring! Disconnect the horn wire. Remove the nut. You will see a
mark on the shaft and the wheel hub, indexing the position. Remove the
wheel, it lifts off with a little wiggle. On the right side you should see a
squiggly spring between 2 white plastic hooks. Is it there? Or is the bottom
hook broken off and the spring gone?
If it is still there, #1 is your problem. To correct this, look for the hole
in the left side of the black plastic hub. Inside the hole is what's left of
a shear bolt. The head of this bolt is gone. It is designed this way. The
head shears off when you tighten it. You need to remove it and replace it
with a Allen head bolt. To remove it: Get a narrow chisel, narrow enough to
fit in the hole. Get a big hammer. Hit the chisel enough to cut a groove in
the shear head for a big screw driver to fit in and turn the screw. Then
remove it and replace it with a 8 x 1.25 x 30mm Allen bolt. Before you
tighten the bolt, put the steering wheel back on and slid the hub up to the
wheel as far as you can. When you put the wheel back on with the index mark
matching, the wheels should be pointing straight ahead and the cancelling
lug should be on the right side.
http://www.type2.com/archive/type2/047997.html
Yes they cancel. 2 things can be wrong: 1)The hub which holds the turn
signal/wiper switch has slid down or 2) the cancelling spring has fallen
off.
For the 1st one: Look between the steering wheel and the black section below
it. On the right side you will see the cancel leg. How much of a gap is
there? Barely any or over 1/4"?
For the 2nd one: Get a 24mm socket. Remove the black horn button with a
little screwdriver. The silver ring STAYS on the wheel. Pop the button out
of the silver ring! Disconnect the horn wire. Remove the nut. You will see a
mark on the shaft and the wheel hub, indexing the position. Remove the
wheel, it lifts off with a little wiggle. On the right side you should see a
squiggly spring between 2 white plastic hooks. Is it there? Or is the bottom
hook broken off and the spring gone?
If it is still there, #1 is your problem. To correct this, look for the hole
in the left side of the black plastic hub. Inside the hole is what's left of
a shear bolt. The head of this bolt is gone. It is designed this way. The
head shears off when you tighten it. You need to remove it and replace it
with a Allen head bolt. To remove it: Get a narrow chisel, narrow enough to
fit in the hole. Get a big hammer. Hit the chisel enough to cut a groove in
the shear head for a big screw driver to fit in and turn the screw. Then
remove it and replace it with a 8 x 1.25 x 30mm Allen bolt. Before you
tighten the bolt, put the steering wheel back on and slid the hub up to the
wheel as far as you can. When you put the wheel back on with the index mark
matching, the wheels should be pointing straight ahead and the cancelling
lug should be on the right side.
- chitwnvw
- Resident Troublemaker
- Location: Chicago.
- Status: Offline
Good stuff, Karl. The '75 which has the canceling problem doesn't have anything in the hole, shear head, hex or otherwise. It doesn't seem to have any threads and I am wondering if someone got creative and drilled out the shear head bolt taking the threads with it. In that case I will tap it to the next size up.
- karl
- Getting Hooked!
- Location: Coos Bay, Oregon
- Status: Offline