Weber sprung a leak on the right port

[dtrumbo]

As you mentioned earlier, check your fuel pressure. Webers DO NOT like excessive fuel pressure. 3 to 4 PSI MAX.

[turk]

Which side do you test, the outlet to the carbs? They flooded again. It started briefly, but died. The carbs started leaking again.

[Amskeptic]

Which side do you test, the outlet to the carbs? They flooded again. It started briefly, but died. The carbs started leaking again.

Test the fuel pressure at the end of the hose to either carb. You can run the engine just long enough to get a reading.

Did you do the blow-the-nipple-while-pressing-the-float-test? Did the needle valve definitively stop your air?

While you are attempting to start with known excessive fuel, do you practice Known Flooding Technique start method?
(accelerator to the floor, leave it there, leave it even as you relieve the starter motor for thirty seconds, leave your accelerator pedal on the floor until it begins to catch, do not spaz, release accelerator only to prevent too much revs if it really does look like it is going to start, but never never never pump the accelerator)

[turk]

Too bad. I already wresteld the outlet line from the fuel pump. I can wrestle it back on. Right now the gauge is attached to the pump, everything clamped off. I didn't try anything yet as I am not sure what is the best method to test it and don't want too much gas spewing around. But before all of this, it started on the first try, struggled a little, then I think I did pump the gas pedal. Then I went around to inspect. No leak at first . It looked wet on the airhorn gasket though. Eventually it started dripping again. Especially around the bottom. The throats of the carbs looked full of gas. I opened the gas cap, and clamped the line from the gas tank to mitigate the vacuum of gas draining to carbs.. Still, since the carbs were full, I guess most of that initial gas went into the manifold. I unscrewed the idle mixture screws a bit. I guess I thought that would keep gas from leaking into the crankcase again. Well, as of now it seems to have stopped leaking.
Lemme get this straight. The fuel pressure gauge ( a hose with a PSI needle gauge) is put right on the gas line? I don't get it. Gas will be trying to go into the gauge.
What a pain. I need to drain the oil again and put fresh oil in.


Oh yaeh, I did the blow test on the needles and seats into the inlets several times. It stopped dead each time the needle was seated, which the floats are adjusted at 10 10.5 mm. So I was pretty sure that was not a problem.

[Amskeptic]

The fuel pressure gauge ( a hose with a PSI needle gauge) is put right on the gas line? I don't get it. Gas will be trying to go into the gauge.

Ayep. The gauge doesn't really care if it is liquid or air "inflating" the Bourdon tube that moves the needle through a rack and pinion inside the gauge.

[Hippie]

In layman's terms, Colin is saying that any delta P on either side of the gauge is irrespective of a fluid's molar volume.

[turk]

I see. I just 1/2 presumed there would be a mess, considering the mess that seems to occur everytime I have tried to start it up. But logically, the gauge will somehow just cap the pressure coming from the line. So, this needs to be done with the engine running I presume. So there needs to be some gas in the carbs to start. I was going to check from the outlet on the pump itself, just by turning the key so it activated the pump but not the engine. I see that wouldn't be a true test of pressure, yet, the problem has always been without the engine on thus far anyway.
I might just take the carbs off AGAIN, but really, the floats were in perfect condition, the needle and seats are fine, the play is fine, the needle cuts off the flow at exactly resting against the seat, etc.. Maybe there's binding but I checked that too. The play was fine after assembly. I could hear it.
I'm rechecking the valves and keeping them a hair loose. I hate to think some of that crap the previous rebuilder slathered all around the flanges fell into the crankcase. It probably did.
One thing seemed troubling: the leak seems mostly at the the bearing at front of the left carb (on the throttle-spindle), but it was basically leaching around the flanges. I saw it. The oil seems okay, but I will probably refresh it before the next attempt. I bought fresh 10W40. I will fire it and keep the pedal depressed once, no pump.

[turk]

It started up per your advice. Thanks again. I am outta practice. So, the gauge said a bit over 2 psi. I had it attached to the left fuel line. It was running and I noticed this drip, drip, drip coming from this, so I killed the engine and took the carb off and will inspect. Everything else seems okay. Of course the other carb wasn't hooked up to the fuel line. I hope I didn't overtorque this fitting or something. I hope it was undertorqued. I guess the torque should be no more than 10 lbs. I dunno.

Thanks so much. I woulda been lost otherwise.

[Amskeptic]

It started up per your advice. I hope I didn't overtorque this fitting or something.

Looks like it is ready for a little more torque. A general rule states that an assembly put together with 13mm nuts can take up to 12 ft/lbs, 15mm can take up to 18 ft/lbs and 17mm can take up to 25 ft/lbs. With brass, I'd reduce those numbers a bit.
Make It Work And Hit The Road!
Colin

[dtrumbo]

FWIW, when I rebuilt my carbs they leaked at that same brass plug. I reached in with my wrench and tightened 'em up another 1/8 turn and they quit leaking. I have no idea what the torque spec is supposed to be, but pretty tight wasn't good enough so pretty tight plus an eighth seems to be holding.

Don't over-think it. Like Colin said, make it work and hit the road!

[chitwnvw]

Anyone ever use teflon tape on those things?

[Amskeptic]

Anyone ever use teflon tape on those things?

I have seen teflon tape used on Chevy Ford fuel lines to Carter Holly Rochester carb inlets with no problem.

I have seen teflon tape used on pipe thread oil senders on VW engines that have cracked the case due to reduced thread friction allowing the taper to crack-split the magnesium like a woodcutter's wedge.


Colin

[turk]

New plugs, wires, rotor and cap, and the bus started right up just turning the key. Now I have to set the timing and fuel air mix.

[Amskeptic]

New plugs, wires, rotor and cap, and the bus started right up just turning the key. Now I have to set the timing and fuel air mix.

Then we will end this technical forum fuel delivery saga and see you in the Type 2 forum where you shall amuse the audience with tales and photos and adventures and perhaps ask questions about bus projects.
Colin

[turk]

After this, which seems like it could be okay, a few other tech problems must be addressed. Then, soon, as the weather continues to be a little warmer, perhaps I can count on chitwnvw's free time and outdoor enthusiasm, and there are numerous adventures of eclectic curiosity we both share. The old canals and portages in N. Illinois (I&M Canal Trail -bike and paddle with a paddleable old aqueduct crossing over the Aux Sable Creek which is also paddleable-, the Hennepin Canal which locks into the Rock River, which has an historic portage with the Wisconsin River; The Grand Calumet thru the heavy industry of Gary Indiana - the US Steel Gary Works in view; The Fever River in Wisconsin and NW Illinois in spring, when water is high; a HUGE cabin I have access to in Sauk Co. Wisc. CHEAP, sleeps over a dozen; The Little Calumet through the City of Chicago out to Lake Michigan and portage in Hammond Indiana to Wolf Lake and back; The Yellow River to the Kankakee and the the 2$ campspot in Indiana on the Kank; just to speculate on a few local destinations..