Fuel leaking (wetness) from dual carb nipple
- Oregon72
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Sherwood, Oregon
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Fuel leaking (wetness) from dual carb nipple
Holy cow! I found something scary that may have existed all the while I've owned my bus and I'd like some advice on fixing it once and for all.
In looking at my engine after a drive this evening, I found some wetness at the fuel inlet on my right carb. I figured that I had damaged the hose with the hose clamp I had put on during my recent rebuild so I cut a new lenght of hose and replaced it. I started up the engine again and what do you know - problem was not fixed, wetness developing at the same spot
It appears to me that the brass inlet/nipple that is inserted in the carb body is not fitting perfectly tight. Moving it side to side, I can detect just the slightest jiggle - enough for a small amount of fuel to get by when under pressure.
Just for chuckles, I pulled up a photo of my engine before my rebuild to see if I could find any evidence of prior leaking. Lo and behold, you can see the exact spot on the top of the right carb. If you look very close, you can see the area has been "washed" clean by gasoline at the fuel inlet. (it was the only clean part on the whole engine by the way ).
The fuel must have been seeping out of there all along and that's scary - just enough to be a little wet and evaporate relatively quickly. This explains the gas odor that would linger for an hour or so in the garage after a drive and the garage door closed. I figured all along, this was just the destinctive smell of a Volkswagen - I was wrong to assume that and I can't believe I've never noticed this.
So for the remedy, what would be the best way to secure this nipple in a tight, permanant, and leak-free fashion??
- thankful my bus is not burnt toast -
In looking at my engine after a drive this evening, I found some wetness at the fuel inlet on my right carb. I figured that I had damaged the hose with the hose clamp I had put on during my recent rebuild so I cut a new lenght of hose and replaced it. I started up the engine again and what do you know - problem was not fixed, wetness developing at the same spot
It appears to me that the brass inlet/nipple that is inserted in the carb body is not fitting perfectly tight. Moving it side to side, I can detect just the slightest jiggle - enough for a small amount of fuel to get by when under pressure.
Just for chuckles, I pulled up a photo of my engine before my rebuild to see if I could find any evidence of prior leaking. Lo and behold, you can see the exact spot on the top of the right carb. If you look very close, you can see the area has been "washed" clean by gasoline at the fuel inlet. (it was the only clean part on the whole engine by the way ).
The fuel must have been seeping out of there all along and that's scary - just enough to be a little wet and evaporate relatively quickly. This explains the gas odor that would linger for an hour or so in the garage after a drive and the garage door closed. I figured all along, this was just the destinctive smell of a Volkswagen - I was wrong to assume that and I can't believe I've never noticed this.
So for the remedy, what would be the best way to secure this nipple in a tight, permanant, and leak-free fashion??
- thankful my bus is not burnt toast -
-'72 Westy-
- midatlanticys
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- werksberg
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And on TS they show how to safety wire it from the clamp to the body too.
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- Oregon72
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Sherwood, Oregon
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No, the hose is not the problem, it is the brass nipple that is part of the actual carb.werksberg wrote:And on TS they show how to safety wire it from the clamp to the body too.
Can the brass nipple just be pulled straight out with pliers, loctite applied and brass nipple re-inserted? Those aren't threaded in there are they? In other words, how can one remove the nipple from the carb without damage??midatlanticys wrote:Blue Loctite - 242
-'72 Westy-
- covelo
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Are you sure this is a '72? Either you are a contortionist or you are very good at aiming your camera from a distance. I have never been able to get anywhere near that nipple.
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'91 Toyota Pickup (4WD long bed) - 199,960 miles
1987 Alfa Spider Veloce - 166,400 miles
2017 VW E-Golf - 5,600 miles
- Sluggo
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AFAIK Safety Wiring is to relieve tension on the nipple and help make sure it doesn't pop out. Why would they pressure fit a fuel supply nipple anyway?Oregon72 wrote:No, the hose is not the problem, it is the brass nipple that is part of the actual carb.werksberg wrote:And on TS they show how to safety wire it from the clamp to the body too.
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- Bookwus
- IAC Addict!
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Hiya Troy,
The brass nipple will pull out with a little gentle persuasion from Mr. Pliers.
When I rebuild carbs I always slighty "knurl" the mating surface of the brass nipple by rolling it over a file a few times. Then I lightly coat that same surface with JB Quickweld epoxy and tap it into place. I finish the job by doing the safety wire routine mentioned above. Easy to do and this has worked very well for me.
The brass nipple will pull out with a little gentle persuasion from Mr. Pliers.
When I rebuild carbs I always slighty "knurl" the mating surface of the brass nipple by rolling it over a file a few times. Then I lightly coat that same surface with JB Quickweld epoxy and tap it into place. I finish the job by doing the safety wire routine mentioned above. Easy to do and this has worked very well for me.
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- midatlanticys
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Sorry, Troy, I just assumed that'd be a threaded barb! Mike's got it right! JB Weld is the call. . . .Oregon72 wrote:. . . Those aren't threaded in there are they?midatlanticys wrote:Blue Loctite - 242
Oregon72 wrote: - thankful my bus is not burnt toast -
Man-o-man . . . you're not the only one!!! =D> =D>
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- satchmo
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Ding, ding, ding! We have a winner. Just knurl or score that brass pipe and hammer it home for a very nice interference fit. Use some JB weld, locktite or some liquid pipe thread sealant if you are worried about any gas leaking around it.Bookwus wrote:Hiya Troy,
The brass nipple will pull out with a little gentle persuasion from Mr. Pliers.
When I rebuild carbs I always slighty "knurl" the mating surface of the brass nipple by rolling it over a file a few times. Then I lightly coat that same surface with JB Quickweld epoxy and tap it into place. I finish the job by doing the safety wire routine mentioned above. Easy to do and this has worked very well for me.
Tim
By three methods we may learn wisdom:
First, by reflection, which is noblest;
second, by immitation, which is easiest;
and third, by experience, which is bitterest. -Confucius
First, by reflection, which is noblest;
second, by immitation, which is easiest;
and third, by experience, which is bitterest. -Confucius