Jetting Recommendations for Weber 44s

Post by **Sluggo** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 6:01 pm

Tried using the 60 idles today. Horrible. Lots of bogging and I had to turn my mixture screws out to 2 turns just to get it to idle correctly. Went back to the 65s with 1 1/2 turns on the mixture.

For some reason the idle jumped up to 2000 out of nowhere. Then, about 20 minutes later, it went back down to 950. Wierd.

vdubyah73 · Post by **vdubyah73** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 6:53 pm

check yer linkage again. look for any hints of binding. may have to put an additional return spring on it.

Bill

Post by **Sluggo** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 7:06 pm

vdubyah73 wrote:check yer linkage again. look for any hints of binding. may have to put an additional return spring on it.

Bill

No binding.

I had taken the extra return spring off 2 days ago. If it happens again I'll put it back.

Post by **Sluggo** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 2:43 pm

Sluggo wrote:
vdubyah73 wrote:check yer linkage again. look for any hints of binding. may have to put an additional return spring on it.

Bill
No binding.

I had taken the extra return spring off 2 days ago. If it happens again I'll put it back.

It happened again so I put it back and it solved the problem.

Tried to balance everything today. If I open up the air adjusters enough to balance things out, I get popping. Does that mean I'm too lean?

Got my replacement Vacuum Gauge from Summit today. My vac is back down to 13 (was 18 last week). What can (did) I do?

vdubyah73 · Post by **vdubyah73** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:03 pm

When you balance barrels you need to adjust the mixture on the barrel that you opened the idle air screw on again. Dual two barrel setups are kinda like a dog chasing his tail. You make one change and you have to check everything again, including timeing. If you get popping off idle at any given speed or pedal position but idle is good and it pulls hard under heavy throttle, your linkage is probably the culprit. Most peopl think that you synch the carbs at idle and you are done, nope thats the easy part. You have to get the linkage to open both carbs smoothly and evenly from idle to wot.
I figure out what throttle position causes the pops, not rpm but throttle position. Lite, moderate or heavy throttle. then go around back and hold the throttle at that position. I pull plug wires off to find which side makes a bigger difference. That will tell you which carb is ahead of the other. Now the hard part, what do you do to fix it? If you just adjust the down rod all you're likely to do is move the problem to a different throttle position. Thats what I did. You could mess with the geometry by sliding the hex bar levers around, but geeze thats rocket science to me. How the heck would you measure it. My very slight roughness is just off idle position only noticable when below 1500 rpm in 3rd = 4th lugging it ( not a prob in a 1500# buggy ) you wouldn't do that in a bus.It's noticable in 1st + 2nd so I shift and give it a little more.

Hope that made some sense Bill

Post by **Sluggo** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:13 pm

To bring the unisyn on #3 up close to #4 I had to open the mixture scew almost all the way. Had to open #2 about half way to match #1. I think #3 may be the problem. I did richen the mixture on #3 & #2

I know how to do the balance the linkage. Colin showed me that. Twice.

vdubyah73 · Post by **vdubyah73** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:34 pm

How far off were they? Is the unisyn the floating ball one? I used the snail and my barrels were all within one point. I don't use anything anymore! Can't get anything on top of the stacks under the buggy body. I pull plug wires one at a time and fiddle until every plug makes the same difference when disconnected

. Kinda hack, but my CPR longblock 2275 mini D port and polish, blueprinted and balanced, Engle 120 with 1.25 ratio rockers 9 to 1 cr, 44 IDF's 1 5/8" trimill exhaust estimated 150rw hp drives like a stock engine till you mash the go pedal.

I'd maybe look for vacuum leaks on the barrels that don't need any air correction. New or used carbs? If used check throttle shafts on the affected side, put a blob of grease all over the throttle shaft where it exits the body of the carb and see if that makes a difference.

Bill

Post by **Sluggo** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 9:04 pm

vdubyah73 wrote:How far off were they? Is the unisyn the floating ball one? I used the snail and my barrels were all within one point. I don't use anything anymore! Can't get anything on top of the stacks under the buggy body. I pull plug wires one at a time and fiddle until every plug makes the same difference when disconnected . Kinda hack, but my CPR longblock 2275 mini D port and polish, blueprinted and balanced, Engle 120 with 1.25 ratio rockers 9 to 1 cr, 44 IDF's 1 5/8" trimill exhaust estimated 150rw hp drives like a stock engine till you mash the go pedal.

I'd maybe look for vacuum leaks on the barrels that don't need any air correction. New or used carbs? If used check throttle shafts on the affected side, put a blob of grease all over the throttle shaft where it exits the body of the carb and see if that makes a difference.

Bill

I have both but used the floating ball.

I'm gonna try cleaning out the Pump Jets & Mixture screws on the offending cylinders.

I closed the #3 cylinder Air Adjusters off somewhat (it was so open you could hear it hissing before).

Used carbs but I just rebuilt them with a crappy italian rebuild kit. I'm gonna do it again when I get a good kit. Anyone have a recomendation on a good Weber rebuild kit?

I didn't rebuild the throttle shafts because I couldn't get the butterflies removed on either carb. And my rebuild kit didn't include parts for it. I just looked in the book and it doesn't show any seals or gaskets there. How do you seal it?

vdubyah73 · Post by **vdubyah73** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:54 am

If thats where the leak is I think you have to send 'em out to someone. Its over my head. you can take the nut off each end remove the linkage arms and springs. there's a washer behind all that and then a bearing. I haven't been able to even get the bearing out on an old set I have. tom find out if thats the problem you could take it down that far and pack that cavity with heavy grease, if the problem resolves itself there it is. If you park your Bus for the winter send those puppies out for a rebush. mharney, from thesamba, has a start up bussiness for servicing Webers.

Those butterfly screws are either peened or super locktited in so the engine won't suck 'em in. Just leave the throttle shaft alone when you try grease.

Bill

chitwnvw · Post by **chitwnvw** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 7:40 am

Rimco does it. I bet most machine shops would do it. I believe they drill it out and put a sleeve in, so that the tolerances are in spec.

Like vdub said above you can put some grease on it and see if that stops the leak. At least you'd know that you have the problem.

Adventurewagon told me about a a guy in Italy that sells rebuild kits on Ebay. Cheap and he's used them.

Post by **Sluggo** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 11:11 am

chitwnvw wrote:Adventurewagon told me about a a guy in Italy that sells rebuild kits on Ebay. Cheap and he's used them.

That's Alfa1750. He's who sold me the crappy italian rebuild kit with 2 needle valves that failed out of the box and caused my crankcase to fill with gas. I'll pass. The kit on CIP1 looks good. But it's $40 or $80 for the pair.

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Jetting Recommendations for Weber 44s