Oregon72 wrote:I'm working on getting the nerve up to attempt to tune my stock dual carbs. DAMMIT!!!
Aw, we all say that.
The cutoff can be repaired if you are feeling adventurous and poor.
Are you feeling adventurous. . . and poor?
Find a male spade somewhere somehow. Notch it near where it enters the solenoid, along the edge about a millimeter from the end. This notch will allow you to insert it in the plastic hole and snag the plastic as you pivot/push the spade in. this is just a test fit. Pull it back out. Get your handy hi-performance soldering gun. Put a small vise-grip on the male spade and pre-heat it along the edge that will be going in shortly for real. As soon as your rosin core solder "melts" along the edge, cram it in the solenoid, engage your hook and pivot push the spade in firmly with the soldering iron pumping in heat. Apply a bead of solder along the flat side at the plastic border. When the solder melts, it will wick into the solenoid and probably melt the plastic a bit too. Release the soldering gun and let things cool as quickly as possible (we do not want to melt the windings inside). If the spade is holding well enough, test for correct operation. I pull the black wire to coil (+) #15, turn on the ignition, ground the body of the solenoid on the coil bracket or some other metal, touch the ignition wire terminal to the solenoid and lightly tap the plunger on the end of the solenoid. If it retracts, yer good. (you have to tap it in order for it to work. It cannot pull itself back without this little tap. Installed, the plunger has a slight preload to help it retract. Many people have condemned these things not knowing about this preload) Now get a fresh female push-on connector and crimp a 2" length of wire onto it. Put a male on the other end of the wire and plug in the wire that used to go directly to the solenoid to this male. THIS is your new plug/unplug point. When you insert the female onto the solenoid, you are going to do it with the precision of a spacewalk. It is the first and last time that the solenoid will ever take any force on the spade you just soldered.
The elbow with the nipple. Take it off the engine and clean with hot soapy water gently but thoroughly. Dry it but good. Smear it with black RTV so all the cracks are filled and a layer coats the whole mess. Let it cure overnight. The nipple needs a hose that goes from it to the INBOARD nipple on the air horn thermostatic switch. The outboard nipple on the air horn thermostatic switch goes to the preheater valve diaphram on the air cleaner intake.
Any other question o' bits?
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
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