1974 Bus - Gas in the oil

[jrbo]

I just checked my oil today and found it way over full and it smells like gas? In my opinion??? the first thing to check is the fuel pump ,could it be leaking into the oil??? Then the carb float on this weber progressive I have?Maybe leaking and cleaning out my pistion walls.I do have some excessive water/condisation from the exhaust??? OR MAYBE the PO installed new fuel line hoses before I bought the bus.They look to large to me / maybe causing to much fuel pressure/volume to the carb?? could the excess fuel going down to the cylinders??? ANY IDEAS?? your help is needed?? 1974 bus T4 Engine / carb....Thanks jrbo....

[Amskeptic]

The last time my crankcase filled up with gasoline, it was the needle valve on the carb that would not shut off.

A ruptured fuel pump diaphragm would also give you lousy fuel pump performance.

The size/diameter of the hoses is immaterial.

If you have an electric fuel pump, over-pressure is a slight possibility.

Extremely warm conditions can increase static fuel pressure due to the expansion of gasoline in hot fuel lines. If it was 48* when this happened you can scratch this possibility.

Colin

[jrbo]

Thats what I forgot to mention...The fuel pump is mechanical..I have another mechanical pump I am waiting for the flange and the gaskets.The carb is another story...any ideas where to get a kit for a weber progessive.??? OR can the needle /seat just be cleaned out CAREFULLY ? The weather/tempiture has been cold/snow...but i do understand the temp can effect fuel operation...THANKS....jrbo

[Amskeptic]

Thats what I forgot to mention...The fuel pump is mechanical..I have another mechanical pump I am waiting for the flange and the gaskets.The carb is another story...any ideas where to get a kit for a weber progessive.??? OR can the needle /seat just be cleaned out CAREFULLY ? The weather/tempiture has been cold/snow...but i do understand the temp can effect fuel operation...THANKS....jrbo

Weber has decent parts support, but I studiously avoid all but the original Solexes, so hit the internet and good luck.

I do not find it at all necessary to replace needle valves because of a one-time flood. I just blow hard into the inlet and work the float up and down to feel for a positive stop-action. Check for no binding anywhere, particularly at reassembly time. My flood came from a brand new needle valve seat that I did not break-in with the above method. Half a tank of gas in the crankcase greeted me the next morning.
Colin

[jrbo]

Thats what I forgot to mention...The fuel pump is mechanical..I have another mechanical pump I am waiting for the flange and the gaskets.The carb is another story...any ideas where to get a kit for a weber progessive.??? OR can the needle /seat just be cleaned out CAREFULLY ? The weather/tempiture has been cold/snow...but i do understand the temp can effect fuel operation...THANKS....jrbo

Weber has decent parts support, but I studiously avoid all but the original Solexes, so hit the internet and good luck.

I do not find it at all necessary to replace needle valves because of a one-time flood. I just blow hard into the inlet and work the float up and down to feel for a positive stop-action. Check for no binding anywhere, particularly at reassembly time. My flood came from a brand new needle valve seat that I did not break-in with the above method. Half a tank of gas in the crankcase greeted me the next morning.
Colin

That sounds just like what is going on here.1/2 tank in the crankcase is just about what I have...Tomorrow I'll take the carb off and check the float/seat to verifty what the heck is going on....At least I have a good starting point.... Any help is greatly accepted.....THANKS...jrbo

[glasseye]

All of which begs the question from a n00b. On a carbureted bus, who needs a fuel pump? The tank's above the carbs. Why didn't VW make it gravity feed?

[satchmo]

All of which begs the question from a n00b. On a carbureted bus, who needs a fuel pump? The tank's above the carbs. Why didn't VW make it gravity feed?

I may (and probably am) wrong, but I think you only want gas flowing to your carburetor when the engine is actually running.

Gravity feed can make for a lot of gas in the crankcase in case of needle valve malfunction (like how about 10 gallons?), and it can make for an even bigger fire in the event you have a little flame in the engine bay (heaven forbid).

That help?

Tim

[Amskeptic]

All of which begs the question from a n00b. On a carbureted bus, who needs a fuel pump? The tank's above the carbs. Why didn't VW make it gravity feed?

Tank is not far enough above the carb(s) . And modern carburetors want pressure to positively close the needle valve.
Colin

[jrbo]

Well I got my carb kit and I pulled off the carb yesterday.I took it all apart and let it soak overnite in some carb cleaner. Today after carefull cleaning of all the blue silicone rubber from the bottom of the carb base plate and the rest of the carb. Things went back together very fast. Dont you just hate things like that? finding silicone in your carb along with all the other wrong adjustments that some and ...I will use the term lightly...(Mechanic )did before you had your bus/VW??? Anyway, it sure ran better...tomorrow the new fuel pump and gas lines....

[glasseye]

All of which begs the question from a n00b. On a carbureted bus, who needs a fuel pump? The tank's above the carbs. Why didn't VW make it gravity feed?

Tank is not far enough above the carb(s) . And modern carburetors want pressure to positively close the needle valve.
Colin

Motorcycles do well with gravity feed, is why I asked. Their fuel head can't be much different from the bus. On bikes, absent a manual petcock, a vacuum-operated or solenoid valve stops fuel from flowing when the engine's off.

Actually, before someone jumps in, really modern bikes do have fuel pumps, but only because they're FI.

So, supposing your fuel pump dies, say halfway between Rock Springs and Rawlins, WY. Could you re-plumb and run with gravity? Just askin'