Contemplating FI

[luftvagon]

Fuel Injection is just amazing. When it works, it works great, but when it doesn't, well it just doesn't. My 30 year old fuel injection is showing its age. The wires are brittle, the connections are starting to fray. All the rubber I replaced several months ago (brake vacuum assist elbow, etc) is starting to show cracks already. The FI is great, but it takes a lot of effort to keep up with the vacuum, and keep the vacuum constant check.

Most of the parts are available:


Like this beautiful wire harness, injectors, and rubber.. but when you add-up the cost, we are well pass the Weber dual carb kit, and the kit pays for itself.

Has anyone bought these injectors (http://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=380114) from Bus Depot?
Has anyone adopted an o2 sensor to L-Jet?

Has anyone gone to dual Weber carb and regretted it?

[hambone]

When dialed in, FI is very robust and pretty trouble free. These guys bring their FI rigs camping all the time. I used to be a carb guy but now I'm sold on either.

[bajaman72]

I have seen dual Kadrons used as well but haven't heard much on the performance or drivability of it. I don't believe I have heard of a complaint with Dual Weber unless they were not set up correctly. Although no experience with the FI, if my bus had it, I would keep it. Just my 2c which isn't worth much ;)

[hambone]

2 cents at least, devalued of course in this terrible economy.

[luftvagon]

I am still tweaking the original FI I have in the bus. The previous owner closed the AFM bypass crew, due to all air leaks he had. Not sure if he played with any other adjustments... I've tried backing this out, and adjusting it, but on cold days, it has to crank for 10 or more seconds to get her started. On first crank she will start, but shut-off immediately.

I've fixed all of the vacuum leaks on the top of the engine -- the intake boot, the booster, fuel pressure vacuum.. etc.. etc. etc.

Should I be looking for any other leaks behind the firewall?
What other adjustments should I be making?

Once it warms-up, it runs good. Plug looks normal.

[Amskeptic]

I am still tweaking the original FI I have in the bus. The previous owner closed the AFM bypass crew, due to all air leaks he had. Not sure if he played with any other adjustments... I've tried backing this out, and adjusting it, but on cold days, it has to crank for 10 or more seconds to get her started. On first crank she will start, but shut-off immediately.

I've fixed all of the vacuum leaks on the top of the engine -- the intake boot, the booster, fuel pressure vacuum.. etc.. etc. etc.

Should I be looking for any other leaks behind the firewall?
What other adjustments should I be making?

Once it warms-up, it runs good. Plug looks normal.

That instantaneous fire-up followed by an immediate stall means that the CSV is working correctly, but that you have an issue following its job. Once the engine is running, additional air to overcome the cold oil is the next big need. This is normally handled by the AAR, which is calibrated to the fuel mixture offered by the ECU.

How long does it take to get the engine to idle by itself, and how slow is it, in comparison to the warm idle?
Colin

[luftvagon]

It warms up pretty fast (when I am on it). On its own, it revs a bit lower, and it takes a while to warm up. It also surges a bit.

[luftvagon]

Ok.. work was so busy for me the last few days, and I did not have time to play with the settings. Today, on my way home I stopped, after engine warm-up, and tweaked the settings with your procedures. I did not touch the static or dynamic adjustment yet. I did the idle adjustment, and raised up my idle a bit. It feels normal. We will see if she can cold-start with one or two cranks.

[luftvagon]

Today was a busy day troubleshooting everyone else's Internet routing problems. I tried to start the wan, same thing, fires up, stalls immediately, and its very hard to restart.

[Amskeptic]

Today was a busy day troubleshooting everyone else's Internet routing problems. I tried to start the wan, same thing, fires up, stalls immediately, and its very hard to restart.

Cold start valve works.
Check both TS I and TS II for at least 2,500 ohms.
If you do not have an 1,100 rpm idle at one minute, AAR may need to be opened up.
Warm mixture has a great effect on cold running, because ECU does an addition game on what it *expects* the mixture to be.

*if your warm mixture is too rich, cold start will be pig rich.
Try this experiment! Set warm idle mixture to slightly lean, and speed to a loony high rpm just before you shut the engine off for the last time today. See what start tomorrow is like.
Colin

[luftvagon]

Does 1981 Vanagon have AAR?

[SlowLane]

Does 1981 Vanagon have AAR?

Yes, it does. AAR stands for Auxiliary Air Regulator. It should be to the right and to the rear of the intake air plenum ("rear" as in "rear of the car") with a short hose coming from the plenum and a longer hose navigating to the S-boot. The rubber elbow that goes on the right side of the AAR is a very common failure item, frequently developing cracks on the underside where you can't see them during a cursory inspection.

Judging by the photos of your van and engine, it appears you may have a late '80 or very early '81. Clues are the lack of an EGR (though that may have just been removed at some point, pretty commonly done when the EGR filter rusts out), and the stamped-in metal vent grills on your air intakes (most '81s had the later plastic ones that are held on with screws).

[luftvagon]

Ok, I had the AAR confused with the brake booster. I have replaced the rubber boot, and recently I added a new vacuum line from the elbow to the boot. I'll take a look at it today.

[luftvagon]

Amazing.. I took to inspect the rubber on the new L boot that goes into AAR.. The metal insert was all the way to the bottom obstructing the air...
Took it off, adjusted the thing. Guess what.. The FI is spot on.. This thing started within 1 revolution and was purring like a kitten.. :(

The sad thing is problem gradually became worst. I guess as the engine heats up, and rubber softens up, this thing falls even deeper and obstructs the air. I will be soldering a copper 90 joint so that there one less thing to worry about.. also.. de-accel gizmo.. buh-bye.

[Amskeptic]

Amazing.. Guess what.. The FI is spot on.. This thing started within 1 revolution and was purring like a kitten.. :(

That is a : ) moment, not a :( moment.
Please disregard the "increase the idle speed to experiment" suggestion.