Underbody

[turk]

I like using a very low viscosity spray rust-converter with compressed air nozzle assist to really hit the crevasses which Por 15 hasn't a prayer of reaching.

I see POR-15 has a sprayer applicator they sell now. You have to dilute the paint by no more than 5% to use it. I'm going to try it anyhow.

[Amskeptic]

I like using a very low viscosity spray rust-converter with compressed air nozzle assist to really hit the crevasses which Por 15 hasn't a prayer of reaching.

I see POR-15 has a sprayer applicator they sell now. You have to dilute the paint by no more than 5% to use it. I'm going to try it anyhow.

Let me know how you like it. Did you send me a deposit without your username in the subject? PM me with response. I have a mystery deposit. . .
Colin

[MConverse]

I did the underbody of the bus today - cleaned as well as I could with compressed air and wire brushes to get any loose flakes off. Used rust catalyzing primer on any patches of surface rust, and also sprayed it inside all drip holes, and up into the frame rails using the compressed air to make sure it got spread around.

It took a total of 8 cans of undercoating to do the entire underside.

About 75% of the work was getting it all cleaned off, then about another 20% taping off shocks, rubber stops, bottom of the bumper etc.

Make sure you wear gloves, eye protection and long sleeves.

Spraying went nice and easy - but man does it make a mess. Took about a 30 min shower with scrubber to get all the undercoating off my hands/arms.

Colin - I'm happy you did the write up on how to do this, made the job much easier. I just wanted to let all the other folks know how many cans to get ahead of time, so they don't have to go back to the store for more like I did :)

Mike

[Amskeptic]

Make sure you wear gloves, eye protection and long sleeves.

That's what I forgot to mention. . . . I looked like a radioactive speckled chimney sweep when I was done.

Colin - I'm happy you did the write up on how to do this, made the job much easier. I just wanted to let all the other folks know how many cans to get ahead of time, so they don't have to go back to the store for more like I did :)

Do you have a topcoat over visible rust-primer spots and rubberized undercoating over all of that?

How does it feel to have the underbody done with this method?
If I was picking up the car from a shop that applied undercoating, I would not have any of the feeling of trust that I have for having done it myself so thoroughly.
ColinJustBackFromSaltHell

[MConverse]

Do you have a topcoat over visible rust-primer spots and rubberized undercoating over all of that?

Yes, on any surface rust I found, I wire brushed the area good, hit it with an emery cloth to rough it up, used the rust catalyzing primer, hit it with flat black paint, then covered it with rubberized undercoating.

How does it feel to have the underbody done with this method?

It seriously took me the entire day, and I know had I taken it to a shop there is no way they would have been as meticulous as I was - nor could I have afforded to pay shop hours to have the job done right.

I'm sure any shop would have taken 1 hour, not taped off shocks, rubber, etc, let alone the 2 lower feet of the body that I taped off. I doubt they would have even removed the wheels, let alone wax them, and my hubcaps like I did. I *know* they would not have sprayed primer/top coat up into the frame rails, and drip holes either.

Seriously this is a job that requires absolutely NO mechanical ability, there is no reason anyone should avoid it. Yes, it's messy, but it's damned cheap, and the feeling of satisfaction, and the knowledge the the bus is not going to "rust out" from under you is unbeatable.

I doubt I'll do it every year, I already marked my calendar to just hit the drip holes, and under the wheels next year.


Colin, once again, thank you for your time, your knowledge, and your willingness to *share* it for free on this forum. You are truly an asset to this air cooled community.

And Sluggo - thanks for Hosting it, and your bandwith :)

Mike

[chitwnvw]

It seriously took me the entire day,

Wouldn't it take more than one day? Don't you need to let the rust catalyzing primer do it's thing for 24 hours or so before you apply anything over it?

[spiffy]

Also heard a good way of degreasing and cleaning the underside prior to undercoating. Just make a thick slurry of tide or other detergent and hot water and scrub with a bristle brush, let it soak and then rinse.

[Amskeptic]

Also heard a good way of degreasing and cleaning the underside prior to undercoating. Just make a thick slurry of tide or other detergent and hot water and scrub with a bristle brush, let it soak and then rinse. . . . .

. . . . . then let light surface rust occur as water dries because this helps the rust catalyzing primer bite. As MConverse mentions, the satisfaction of doing it to your own standards is unbeatable.
Colin

[Runamuck Bus]

I figured that the work on the under carriage was the cheapest thing I could do; as mentioned - requires NO mechanical talent. I spent hours chipping and scraping loose under coat, wirbrushing and sanding exposed metal and finally hand washing and air blasting the section between the front and rear wheels. Somebody call Mike Rowe - this is a dirty job! Here are some snapshots - before, be-after, rust products. The wheels, front clip and engine area come later as does some touch up (the camera flash shows everything missed!). I spent about 13 hours applying the rust proofing, used 3 brushes (1 1/2 & 2 in) and a little over 1/2 gallon of 'tar' and 6 pair of vinyl gloves (oh yeah, 1 TYVEK disposable over suit).


Weapons of War

Hire somebody

Looks Great when Finished

Use Big Brushes


No Way anyone else would ever do this kind of job on your bus!

[Manfred]

I just read this. What a great resource. This is the first thing I'm going to do once I get into my garage.