Battery tray rust repair

[glasseye]

My coach battery tray is rusted right though in a couple of places. I've made a template for the new floor and I'm about cut it out of quarter-inch plastic sheeting. It'll self-support on the tray area that's left, but the underside will still be exposed to the weather.

Other than making a new place for the battery to live, what's the appropriate procedure for sealing the tray area from future weather damage?

[satchmo]

My coach battery tray is rusted right though in a couple of places. I've made a template for the new floor and I'm about cut it out of quarter-inch plastic sheeting. It'll self-support on the tray area that's left, but the underside will still be exposed to the weather.

Other than making a new place for the battery to live, what's the appropriate procedure for sealing the tray area from future weather damage?

No takers on your inquiry, eh?

I am of the opinion that it doesn't matter much what you do, as long as you allow for water to drain out. The bus originally came with a hole under the battery with a funky little grommet that let water drain out, but not splash in. You can imagine how much water goes in that tray while you are moving 60mph down the hiway in a driving rain storm.

They make nice, inexpensive, metal replacement trays that fit well and have a way to secure the bottom of the battery, just the way the factory intended. Trouble is, it takes serious welding skills to do a complete replacement.

If you use the metal aftermarket piece, a neat trick is to cut the old tray out leaving a lip of about 2 cm all the way around on the perimeter. Cut the bent edges off the replacement tray. and just set it on top of the lip that remains of the old tray. Now you can weld or rivet the piece in there without major surgery on the rear panel of the bus. Use a good automotive seam sealer on the joint to keep water from collecting in there. You can also use some roofing cement around the joint on the pavement side of the repair to make sure water doesn't splash up there. And keep the hole under the battery open for drainage.

Also, I would NOT use one of those 'acid absorbing' pads under the battery to prevent future damage. This will just trap more moisture and lead to more rust.

Other folks have used plywood, etc, which will prevent your battery from falling out behind your rear tire at inopportune moments, but I think it is wise to have a way to stop the rust and prevent your battery from jumping around back there.

Good luck, Tim

[OB Bus]

I have zero welding skills, and I am frugal.
The way I did it was...
Clean up the rust and treat it with rust destroyer or POR or Hammerite or Rustbullet, etc.
Use Kool Patch or Bedliner or ? to seal in the POR, etc.
Bolt in the plywood patch, (do try to use exterior plywood) liberally painted with exterior house paint.
Seal the whole thing in Kool Patch or Bedliner or ?

Mine has been in for 4 years now and is still solid.

[Sluggo]

I used Por 15 & fiberglass.

[bretski]

I used Por 15 & fiberglass.

+1

I need to repair mine, and this is what I plan to use (I might use Eastwood, though, since I have more of that in the garage).

[glasseye]

Thanks, gang. What with your rigorous, detailed and complete instructions and a good Skype session with germansupplyscott, I'm READY!

I love this place.

[OB Bus]

I used Por 15 & fiberglass.

Fiberglass is good if you have a smaller hole to fill. Mine was rusted out within 2 inches of the edge on all sides of the tray.