Please recommend a rust-converting primer-Update:Doors Done!
- bretski
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Please recommend a rust-converting primer-Update:Doors Done!
I am starting to get a tiny bit of rust on the bottom of my doors. Want to make sure it gets stopped in its tracks. I plan to pull-off the door panels, as my guess is that some water has pooled in there.
What is a good rust-catalyzing primer to use? Seems a spray can would work best to get into the nooks and crannies of the inner-door...
edited to add/ask: Maybe the Eastwood product? It comes in a rattle-can.
What is a good rust-catalyzing primer to use? Seems a spray can would work best to get into the nooks and crannies of the inner-door...
edited to add/ask: Maybe the Eastwood product? It comes in a rattle-can.
1978 Deluxe Westfalia - "Klaus"
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio
- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
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I use any rust-catalyzing primer in an aerosol can. Clean all drain holes and blow out the entire inner door and vacuum the recesses. Then wash with soapy water. Rinse. Rinse again. Dry for a few days. Blast with compressed air again. Let dry if any moisture was apparent. Light surface rust from water will help the rust catalyzing primer bond. Spray with abandon. If you have an air supply, use the blow-nozzle to blast the hell out of the place while you are spraying the rust-catalyzing primer into all the nooks and crannies. Allow to dry for at least a few days. Then follow with a thin coat of any paint that would look nice in there.
Colin
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
- bretski
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I don't have a compressor, but will do my best nonetheless. Ended up getting some Loctite brand rust converter @ hardware store, and it seemed to work fine on a spot behind my front wheel. Thanks for the tips, Colin! Will let you know what I find in the doors.
1978 Deluxe Westfalia - "Klaus"
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio
- bretski
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The inside of the driver's door wasn't too bad. Just a few greasy fuzz areas and a little light surface rust in a couple spots. Gave it 2 coats of the rust catalyzer and will check it again in the morning. Need to get some plastic to replace the vapor barrier.
Does anybody sell the little rubber grommets that the door panel clips fit into? Wolfsburg West, maybe? I'm missing about half of them, and the rest are rotting away...
Does anybody sell the little rubber grommets that the door panel clips fit into? Wolfsburg West, maybe? I'm missing about half of them, and the rest are rotting away...
1978 Deluxe Westfalia - "Klaus"
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio
- DurocShark
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http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp? ... 13-857-219bretski wrote: Does anybody sell the little rubber grommets that the door panel clips fit into? Wolfsburg West, maybe? I'm missing about half of them, and the rest are rotting away...
- bretski
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Follow-up questions:
I haven't put the new seals on yet, as I'm a little worried about the bead of rust I'm seeing around the edge of the door (sandwich layer that forms the lip for the seal. So far, I've hit the lip with the catalyzer 3 times, but there's so little surface area, that I'm not sure it's doing a lot of good.
If I apply por-15 or masterseries, will this cause too much build-up of the paint in the area? Which would be better, considering that the area already has converter/primer on it? (have a can of por, and masterseries is shipping today) Should I try to sand it, or will the spray catalyzer have given the area enough tooth? It feels pretty rough.
I haven't put the new seals on yet, as I'm a little worried about the bead of rust I'm seeing around the edge of the door (sandwich layer that forms the lip for the seal. So far, I've hit the lip with the catalyzer 3 times, but there's so little surface area, that I'm not sure it's doing a lot of good.
If I apply por-15 or masterseries, will this cause too much build-up of the paint in the area? Which would be better, considering that the area already has converter/primer on it? (have a can of por, and masterseries is shipping today) Should I try to sand it, or will the spray catalyzer have given the area enough tooth? It feels pretty rough.
1978 Deluxe Westfalia - "Klaus"
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio
- DurocShark
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- bretski
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- DurocShark
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- bretski
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M'kay, that's what I'll do, then. Since I have the por in-hand, guess I'll give that a go. Now, if the weather will just hold up for a day or two (afternoon t-storms have been killing my after-work bus projects)...DurocShark wrote:I would give it a gentle 350 grit sanding just to be sure.
1978 Deluxe Westfalia - "Klaus"
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio
- bretski
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FYI to bus owners: These are too large. They are designed to fit in a beetle. The only vendor I've managed to find that sells the correct size is Wolfsburg West. Bad news: they are 89 cents EACH! Ugh. I think I'm gonna make due without.DurocShark wrote:http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp? ... 13-857-219bretski wrote: Does anybody sell the little rubber grommets that the door panel clips fit into? Wolfsburg West, maybe? I'm missing about half of them, and the rest are rotting away...
1978 Deluxe Westfalia - "Klaus"
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio
- DurocShark
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- bretski
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Got a bag of them. The circumference is too large, and won't fit into the clip holes. (I compared them to my few remaining to confirm).DurocShark wrote:I've got some and they work fine. Who said they're too large? (And sykboy doesn't count. They're all too large for him. )
Talked to several vendors, and apparently the bus clip seals are NLA (except from WolfWest, who makes them--hence the 89 cent raping). If you have extra, I'll gladly take them off your hands.
1978 Deluxe Westfalia - "Klaus"
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio
- bretski
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Just finished painting the sandwich layer and bottom/inside of doors with Por-15. Hopefully this will take care of the rust that was starting to form. Will spray some more catalyzer in there after the Por15 has cured (for the spots I couldn't reach with the brush.
Bought some 4mil plastic sheeting at the downtown Ace to replace the old vapor barrier. Then the new German door seals go on, and I will call it done for the next several years.
Bought some 4mil plastic sheeting at the downtown Ace to replace the old vapor barrier. Then the new German door seals go on, and I will call it done for the next several years.
1978 Deluxe Westfalia - "Klaus"
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio
- bretski
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Didn't have time to take any pics, but my door project is complete.
After letting the por-15 cure for several days, I painted the edges and bottoms. New German door seals are also installed. Spend the money, and get the good hand-made door seals. They fit, and have the little triangular bits in the corners (unlike the Brazilian et al seals).
I also received 20 square feet of this:
Second Skin Damplifier
Highly recommended! The Damplifier product is excellent. It comes in 12"x24" sheets that can be cut to size with scissors. I used about 2-1/2 sheets total for the front doors. Most of it went in the outer door metal, and a little on the inside metal. Adheres very well, and it very workable. If you mis-place a piece, the adhesive will release to give you a chance to fix it before it permanently adheres. Used a plastic seam roller to get any air bubbles out.
As I installed the Damplifier, I kept banging on the outside of the door. You could really hear the difference. No more tin-can sounding clang. The door now closes with a very satisfying "THUD!" Just like a German car is supposed to sound!!!
New vapor barriers consisting of fresh 4mil plastic sheeting from Ace. Replaced the door panels (managed to only break about 3 clips total). Hint: You can use the beetle door clip seals in the smaller bus holes. The trick is to use a T20 torx driver to GENTLY push the seal into the hole. Only tore 1 of them using this method. Overall, I am very pleased with the final results. The cockpit is significantly quieter now, and as an added benefit, my speakers sound waaaaaay better.
...and I can't help but slam the doors just to hear them go, "THUD!"
After letting the por-15 cure for several days, I painted the edges and bottoms. New German door seals are also installed. Spend the money, and get the good hand-made door seals. They fit, and have the little triangular bits in the corners (unlike the Brazilian et al seals).
I also received 20 square feet of this:
Second Skin Damplifier
Highly recommended! The Damplifier product is excellent. It comes in 12"x24" sheets that can be cut to size with scissors. I used about 2-1/2 sheets total for the front doors. Most of it went in the outer door metal, and a little on the inside metal. Adheres very well, and it very workable. If you mis-place a piece, the adhesive will release to give you a chance to fix it before it permanently adheres. Used a plastic seam roller to get any air bubbles out.
As I installed the Damplifier, I kept banging on the outside of the door. You could really hear the difference. No more tin-can sounding clang. The door now closes with a very satisfying "THUD!" Just like a German car is supposed to sound!!!
New vapor barriers consisting of fresh 4mil plastic sheeting from Ace. Replaced the door panels (managed to only break about 3 clips total). Hint: You can use the beetle door clip seals in the smaller bus holes. The trick is to use a T20 torx driver to GENTLY push the seal into the hole. Only tore 1 of them using this method. Overall, I am very pleased with the final results. The cockpit is significantly quieter now, and as an added benefit, my speakers sound waaaaaay better.
...and I can't help but slam the doors just to hear them go, "THUD!"
1978 Deluxe Westfalia - "Klaus"
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio
"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio