$50 paint job

bottomend · Post by **bottomend** » Sat Mar 24, 2007 1:37 am

Anybody up for the challenge?

http://rickwrench.com:80/50dollarpaint.html

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... art=1&vc=1

vdubyah73 · Post by **vdubyah73** » Sat Mar 24, 2007 8:36 am

Boat paint such as Pettit Easypoxy or Interlux Brightside would be a better choice than Rustoleum. More shine and durability in the sun. These paints are made to with stand a hostile environment.

Bill

bottomend · Post by **bottomend** » Sat Mar 24, 2007 1:09 pm

Great tip! Has anyone here done/heard about a roller job personally?

vdubyah73 · Post by **vdubyah73** » Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:09 pm

Used to paint my 22' boat that way, about every 4 years. Follow directions to the letter and you can get a real nice job. The paint is self leveling and the brush marks flow out. It's applied with a foam roller and tipped in with a high quality brush.

Bill

hambone · Post by **hambone** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 9:28 am

Interesting...I know Tristessa was experimenting with that method.

RSorak 71Westy · Post by **RSorak 71Westy** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 9:39 am

I just painted the pop-top on my 71 using this method.....It looks much better.

StevesBug · Post by **StevesBug** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 9:53 am

I used Rustoleum Pro and sprayed the interior, rolled the exterior. It's
not perfect but very acceptable. For those of us that don't have the equipment,
expertise or $ to do regular automtive paint, it allows a good looking
finish that can be repaired ( or replaced ) without a great deal of trouble.

These are after sanding and compounding. I'll do the final polish after
the body is back on the pan.

Post by **Sluggo** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 10:47 am

VERY NICE! =D>

Post by **Amskeptic** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 11:13 am

StevesBug wrote: rolled the exterior. It's not perfect but very acceptable.

Man. . . Second that.
Colin

dhoch14 · Post by **dhoch14** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 3:36 pm

looks like I'm going to give the rolling paint a try.

my only issue is keeping the two tone white on top and red on the bottom.

anyone have an experience with taping off the lines?

found this site useful: rollyourcar.com

Post by **Amskeptic** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 4:22 pm

dhoch14 wrote:looks like I'm going to give the rolling paint a try.

my only issue is keeping the two tone white on top and red on the bottom.

anyone have an experience with taping off the lines?

found this site useful: rollyourcar.com

White first. Let cure for a couple of weeks at least. Use weak tape when you do the red. Yoo shore don't want to peel the white off when you remove the tape. Pull tape at a 45* down and pull in the direction you are going. You can practice technique by trying to get Breyers 8 oz. yogurt foil off in one piece.
Colin

NWbuspilot · Post by **NWbuspilot** » Wed Jul 11, 2007 3:48 am

I think I'm gonna try this out sometime soon. I've been trying to find a panel to practice on, and it looks like I'm gonna need a new driver's door. So... why not pick up the door and paint it? I also have about 15-20 BB-marble sized dents to fill, 2 decent ones, and one softball width, 1/2" deep one underneath the front passenger's turn signal.

One of the dents is in the belt line of the passenger's door, and looks like it will be near impossible to work with. So I may even get to practice on 2 doors before I start the whole bus. But, I too will be faced with 2 tone red/white paint and matching up the lines.

'55 Ragtop · Post by **'55 Ragtop** » Wed Jul 11, 2007 7:28 am

Napa Auto Parts sells a few standard colors of industrial paints that are fairly cheap, about $35 per gallon. I used the white for the poptop section and came out fine.

NWbuspilot · Post by **NWbuspilot** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:47 pm

Well I was cleaning house today and found a half pint of Regal Red colored enamel. I think I am going to start by painting my old, old, craftsman toolbox. Maybe I'll even paint the bottom red and the top white to match my bus!

tristessa · Post by **tristessa** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 8:58 am

How'd I miss this topic?

Yeah, I've done a bit of tryout work with this method, painted the rear trunklid and license light on my Fastback. Came out nicely, still looks good after a year sitting outside .. except for the inevitable layer of dust.

Just FYI, if you go this route you don't have to be limited to the colors available from Rustoleum. Find yerself a TrueValue store and look at the paint chips -- just about any of those shades can be made in XO-Rust, which is the private-label Rustoleum equivalent (holds up just as well). I think Ace Hardware has an equivalent rust-paint base they can tint & mix in-store, but I'm not sure .. I don't work at an Ace.

Itinerant Air-Cooled

Itinerant Air-Cooled

$50 paint job

$50 paint job