$50 paint job

hambone · Post by **hambone** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 9:11 am

Does anyone know where to get a pint of color matched enamel (I guess oil would be better for cars?) here in Portland, where they scan the color and match it? It seems more accurate than paint codes.

tristessa · Post by **tristessa** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 8:07 pm

hambone wrote:Does anyone know where to get a pint of color matched enamel (I guess oil would be better for cars?) here in Portland, where they scan the color and match it?

I'd start by checking with Industrial Finishes on SE McLaughlin .. don't know the address but south of Holgate on the west side of the road. Even though the name says "industrial", they have automotive finishes. And if they can't do it, they probably know who does.

NWbuspilot · Post by **NWbuspilot** » Wed Jul 18, 2007 1:16 am

tristessa wrote:How'd I miss this topic?

Yeah, I've done a bit of tryout work with this method, painted the rear trunklid and license light on my Fastback. Came out nicely, still looks good after a year sitting outside .. except for the inevitable layer of dust.

Just FYI, if you go this route you don't have to be limited to the colors available from Rustoleum. Find yerself a TrueValue store and look at the paint chips -- just about any of those shades can be made in XO-Rust, which is the private-label Rustoleum equivalent (holds up just as well). I think Ace Hardware has an equivalent rust-paint base they can tint & mix in-store, but I'm not sure .. I don't work at an Ace.

I have an Ace about 3/4 mile from my house. I also have some Senegal Red and Pastel white color swatches (digital) I wonder if they could match those.

Vdubtech · Post by **Vdubtech** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:57 pm

I've rolled a couple of Buses...first was a '72 Westy that was just horrid...the other was my '62 15 Window that the farmer's son thought it would be fun to spray paint all over. I didn't really get too involved with it...Both were done over the course of two days, one color a day. The first I did with a Behr exterior gloss enamel. Worked ok, but the Rustoleum oil based high gloss from Home Depot was both easier to apply and looked better afterwards. Two coats of the Rustoleum is what I used. It was almost 100 degrees when I painted it so by the time I got one coat on, it was dry enough for the next. Pics speak for themselves.

Post by **Amskeptic** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 7:37 pm

Vdubtech wrote:I've rolled a couple of Buses...first was a '72 Westy that was just horrid...the other was my '62 15 Window that the farmer's son thought it would be fun to spray paint all over. I didn't really get too involved with it...Both were done over the course of two days, one color a day. The first I did with a Behr exterior gloss enamel. Worked ok, but the Rustoleum oil based high gloss from Home Depot was both easier to apply and looked better afterwards. Two coats of the Rustoleum is what I used. It was almost 100 degrees when I painted it so by the time I got one coat on, it was dry enough for the next. Pics speak for themselves.

Man, you been busy, are these recent jobs? Look good by the way.
Colin>Colorado

Vdubtech · Post by **Vdubtech** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 9:11 am

Amskeptic wrote:
Vdubtech wrote:I've rolled a couple of Buses...first was a '72 Westy that was just horrid...the other was my '62 15 Window that the farmer's son thought it would be fun to spray paint all over. I didn't really get too involved with it...Both were done over the course of two days, one color a day. The first I did with a Behr exterior gloss enamel. Worked ok, but the Rustoleum oil based high gloss from Home Depot was both easier to apply and looked better afterwards. Two coats of the Rustoleum is what I used. It was almost 100 degrees when I painted it so by the time I got one coat on, it was dry enough for the next. Pics speak for themselves.
Man, you been busy, are these recent jobs? Look good by the way.
Colin>Colorado

Nahhh...actually they are both long gone. The '72 went to a guy in PA and the '62 went to the UK. I drove the '62 for a season...never let me down even driving to Culumbus, OH loaded with camping stuff and 98 degree heat on the Thruway. Miserable ride for sure, but it never so much as hiccuped. That's one Bus I do regret selling, but the price was right at the time.

Post by **Sluggo** » Fri Jul 27, 2007 8:59 am

tristessa wrote:Just FYI, if you go this route you don't have to be limited to the colors available from Rustoleum. Find yerself a TrueValue store and look at the paint chips -- just about any of those shades can be made in XO-Rust, which is the private-label Rustoleum equivalent (holds up just as well). I think Ace Hardware has an equivalent rust-paint base they can tint & mix in-store, but I'm not sure .. I don't work at an Ace.

I was gonna ask this. My local favorite hardware store is a True Value franchise and they only sell XO-Rust. Plan on painting the new Bus black & white (even though Bottomend is against it) after I make the swap.

spiffy · Post by **spiffy** » Fri Jul 27, 2007 12:09 pm

How close to a sprayed on finish does this method get you?

Any special roller, brush that you ahd to use?

tristessa · Post by **tristessa** » Fri Jul 27, 2007 3:26 pm

spiffy wrote:How close to a sprayed on finish does this method get you?

Any special roller, brush that you ahd to use?

Depends on a number of things, and how good of a "sprayed on finish" you're comparing it to.

For example, I see plenty of just-off-the-floor new cars with atrocious paint,
particularly when it comes to orange peel, but sags & runs as well sometimes. Seriously, look at the factory paint jobs on new & new-ish cars in a parking lot sometime. Fairly often, a "professional" sprayed paint job is just as bad. I was up at the DDB shop this morning and they were scuffing down a car they'd *just* gotten back from the paint shop before taking it somewhere else that'll hopefully do a better job than Avanti on SE 82nd did.

The roll-on job it can come out quite nicely if you do it right. But you've gotta be prepared to spend at least a week laying on the coats, wetsanding between every other coat, polishing after the final coat has dried. The more time & effort you put into it, the better it comes out -- there's a process that has to be done, you aren't just slapping paint on.

4-inch high-density foam rollers and some of those foam brushes (to get into small areas, etc) are the tools to use. Oh, and plenty of mineral spirits to thin the paint with. You want it to be roughly the consistency of 1% milk before you put paint on, and when you lay the paint it's more of a "wet the surface" coat than a "hide the stuff underneath really quick" coat.

spiffy · Post by **spiffy** » Fri Jul 27, 2007 6:25 pm

Hmm

Sounds like auto painting allright

Just no overspray....sounds like a good option.

NWbuspilot · Post by **NWbuspilot** » Sun Aug 19, 2007 5:36 pm

I saw a post on the other site a while ago where a guy used the Rustoleum thinned 50/50 and painted with an electric HVLP sprayer from harbor freight.

Itinerant Air-Cooled

Itinerant Air-Cooled

$50 paint job