Itinerant Air-Cooled

Im trying to make a decision. Will be doing my first true auto paint job this spring painting the westy.

I can't decide between single stage or base and clear. I'm not looking for show quality. I will be taping off windows. Removing handles and lenses and..... Some sanding to bare metal and some spots of filler.

I'm not to concerned about the end results because whatever I do will turn out awesome. I might even consider a rattle can job but I'm looking for a bit more quality and longevity.

So, what are the pros and cons of these two different jobs? Would one fit my requirements better than the other?

I like single stage, no messin around or clearcoat peelin' someday.

Mulcheese wrote: I might even consider a rattle can job but I'm looking for a bit more quality and longevity.

Rattle can. Eight years old. Single Stage. E-Z touch-up.

Yes I have seen this before, looks nice, but I want to get some guns and learn that process.

hambone wrote:I like single stage, no messin around or clearcoat peelin' someday.

I have been leaning towards single stage. Someone told me the problem is if I need to touch up that is difficult. Also it is my understanding that there is a lot of wet sanding for a quality job. Is that the case?

hambone wrote:I like single stage, no messin around or clearcoat peelin' someday.

Yup, if you don't do it right "How come all this is peeling off?"

Single stage is easy to sand, buff out minor mistakes. Wet sand with 1500 grit and use the sitex bars and a buffer with a lambswool disc to make it smooth. That is how I painted cabinets in SU for 4 years with auto paint. Everyone wanted a high gloss finish!

Mulcheese wrote:

Amskeptic wrote: Rattle can.

Yes I have seen this before, looks nice, but I want to get some guns and learn that process.

Therefore, you don't want to do a rattle can job.
So, you are not "I might even consider a rattle can job".
Colin

Amskeptic wrote:

Mulcheese wrote:

Amskeptic wrote: Rattle can.

Yes I have seen this before, looks nice, but I want to get some guns and learn that process.

Therefore, you don't want to do a rattle can job.
So, you are not "I might even consider a rattle can job".
Colin

Yes, wrong choice of words. I should have said "I have considered a rattle can job but now want more". Why I mentioned a rcj is to emphasize that I am not looking for the chow quality job, not that yours wasn't.

Mulcheese wrote: I am not looking for the chow quality job, not that yours wasn't.

I have never been so insulted as now.
Colin

Amskeptic wrote:

Mulcheese wrote: I am not looking for the chow quality job, not that yours wasn't.

I have never been so insulted as now.
Colin

Oops. Sorry I guess that is what the preview button is for. I meant show quality.

Wet sanding is only necessary if you screw up. I got good at it.
Actually the biggest challenges I faced was proper air pressure, distance from surface, and time to dry, all things that come with experience.

hambone wrote:Wet sanding is only necessary if you screw up. I got good at it.
Actually the biggest challenges I faced was proper air pressure, distance from surface, and time to dry, all things that come with experience.

I don't bother to wet-sand engine tins and chassis parts, but I have never sprayed a finished finish right out of the can. I think there are trillions upon trillions of minute imperfections that allow paint to hold onto urban air pollution until you get the finish down. If you run your hand along the paint after a wax job and feel virtually no friction, yer there.
Colin

Amskeptic wrote:
If you run your hand along the paint after a wax job and feel virtually no friction, yer there.
Colin

This is not the level that I am trying to achieve. What I do want is.... Sand the surface rust, fill the minor dents, throw down some good primer, cover with a lasting color. All for under $500. Is that beyond reality????

Why not try to achieve that level, as long as you are doing this?

Jivermo wrote:Why not try to achieve that level, as long as you are doing this?

Yes I will make the best effort possible and if I get there great but if not I will still be pleased with the results. I just want to improve on what I currently have.

I ain't no painter, as my projects show...but here's my cost break down on my new bug:

Primer: Napa quart size: $49
Primer: Tractor Supply Gallon: $35
Paint: Tractor supply Gallon: $29
Add-ins (reducer and hardener): Tractor Supply, small cans: $30
Sand Paper...dear lord...sandpaper: Harbor Freight: $55 (about $1 per sheet)
Super fine: 1500 / 2000 / 3000 grit: nearly $40 (Much less paper required, but, $4-$7 per sheet)
Clear Coat: O'reilley's $25

So, I'm in about $265 on paint for the topside of the car. I also used about a bajillion cans of RustReformer, at $6 per can (Harbor Freight), and a quart of black auto gloss on the chassis.

I already had a gallon of Bondo, from Walmart...don't remember the cost...I also already purchased the sprayer, which was about $50-60.

My Vanagon, using the Napa store brand stuff I mentioned in the other post, ran a little more than $800 in paint costs. I used only rattle can black on the chassis of it, after rust reformer.

A note...no matter how tempting, don't use a grinder on the rust spots... Spend money on the sand paper. I screwed up royally on the van that way.