Itinerant Air-Cooled

Alrightey then. Going to start tackling Bertha's floor, hopefully able to finish before we head over to Maupin this year. And yep, have questions.

Here is the floor currently.



We have replacement floor panels. So first question, should I keep as much original metal as possible? Just brush away the rust and clean and prep, taking off the paint, too, I presume? Or should I cut out everything and leave a lip to weld the replacement panel to?


neal

I would do the POR15/fiberglass mat. Your floor looks still-savable.
See here:
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com/2013/ ... ug-to.html

Yes the general rule is too keep solid original metal.....and only replace the areas that need it. But some people value their time over this path and sometimes its quicker to just replace the entire patch area.

Forging ahead with replacement panels spot welded with a seam sealer followup. BUT, the replacement panel on the driver's side wants to tuck under the plate at the base of the steering column, and for the life of me, I can't figure out how to move that plate up the steering column. There's a plastic clamp that is throwing me. What am I missing?

It seems to be the last hurdle I'm facing with the pre-welding prep.



neal

ruckman101 wrote:Forging ahead with replacement panels spot welded with a seam sealer followup. BUT, the replacement panel on the driver's side wants to tuck under the plate at the base of the steering column, and for the life of me, I can't figure out how to move that plate up the steering column. There's a plastic clamp that is throwing me. What am I missing?
It seems to be the last hurdle I'm facing with the pre-welding prep.
neal

Do you have your Bentley? It has a steering column write up. I personally would not remove the steering wheel. I would label/remove the turn signal switch wires and the ignition switch wires, then remove the steering box shaft clamp (I don't think you have to match-mark, but do it to be extra-diligent) under the bus and let the whole coupler/flange come up with your steering assembly. You need to remove the two screws holding the base plate to the floor, remove the steering column bracket from the air plenum/dash, remove the four screws between the upper steering column support and the ignition housing, and then you can rotate the ignition switch/steering lock assembly with the housing free of the support, and lift! up! off the steering box. Then you have room to work.

Not the same car, but hey.

The flange at the base is integral? It doesn't just slide up? Dang it. Trimming the replacement panel sounds the simpler solution.


neal

ruckman101 wrote:The flange at the base is integral? It doesn't just slide up? Dang it. Trimming the replacement panel sounds the simpler solution.


neal

It is not integral. Your steering column tube is *insulated* from the base plate (your word is "flange", I think) with that plastic piece. This is necessary for the horn. You have this big old steering shaft coming up through the floor. You want it out of there or else no floor pan is going to get into position.

I think you want good floor pan metal properly tacked/welded into place. Bite the bullet. Do it right. You and Bertha for the rest of your days. You want that floor pan welded to the front sheet metal at least as well as the factory which wasn't all that good when you look at how minor collisions pop the spot welds. Your feet may thank your diligence some day.
Colin Still Sore AnkleBones Some Days

Cutting the replacement panel back. It isn't complete as it is, in terms of having or needing a hole for the steering column, from the very nose edge, it stops short of the brake pedal, and that corner is missing, but for a small bit of arc that wants to tuck under the base plate of the steering column. So even if I get it under, the base plate is then on an uneven platform to tighten down, which suggests gaps and a proneness to leaking. So I'm going to trim it back. I'll get some photos up this evening.


neal

ruckman101 wrote:Cutting the replacement panel back. It isn't complete as it is, in terms of having or needing a hole for the steering column, from the very nose edge, it stops short of the brake pedal, and that corner is missing, but for a small bit of arc that wants to tuck under the base plate of the steering column. So even if I get it under, the base plate is then on an uneven platform to tighten down, which suggests gaps and a proneness to leaking. So I'm going to trim it back. I'll get some photos up this evening.


neal

Got it. I had visions of something larger than what you are talking about.
Colin

I am lame on the photos, but working on it. The panels get spot welded into place last week, and today I'm doing the wash in readiness to apply the metal treatment so Por 15 and seam sealer adheres.

Here's the question, Por 15 or seam sealer first? I'm leaning seam sealer with Por 15 over it all as a finish.



neal

ruckman101 wrote:I am lame on the photos, but working on it. The panels get spot welded into place last week, and today I'm doing the wash in readiness to apply the metal treatment so Por 15 and seam sealer adheres.

Here's the question, Por 15 or seam sealer first? I'm leaning seam sealer with Por 15 over it all as a finish.
neal

Would seam sealer not be able to adhere to a POR 15 finish?
If so, seam sealer then Por15.

But if seam sealer doesn't care, I would do the POR15 first. Then, when the seam sealer cracks or deteriorates, there is still a protected layer under it. IIRC, VW had phosphate primer under their seam sealer before the application of top coat after.
Colin

hambone wrote:I would do the POR15/fiberglass mat. Your floor looks still-savable.
See here:
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com/2013/ ... ug-to.html

Hey Hammy, I read most of the Bug blog, fascinating capture of a restoration. It makes you think both the Bug and the blog story will survive us all. Your work with fiberglass and POR 15, I need to do that on my Bus, a little at a time. I want to try it out on my floorboard first, is there a process to blend it into the metal an not stand out as an obvios patch? How does it blend in covering holes?