Hard To Shift When Cold

chitwnvw · Post by **chitwnvw** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 12:18 pm

When it was warmer out my bus shifted fairly smoothly. But now that it's cold ( around freezing her in the second city), I really have to push it into gear, it kind of pops. As I drive and everything warms up it get easier to shift. Also, I notice if I leave my hand on the shifter as I let off the gas, I feel a rhythmically tapping on the shifter.

Any thoughts?

DurocShark · Post by **DurocShark** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 1:09 pm

Try switching to synthetic gear oil?

Post by **Amskeptic** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 3:29 pm

chitwnvw wrote:When it was warmer out my bus shifted fairly smoothly. But now that it's cold ( around freezing her in the second city), I really have to push it into gear, it kind of pops. As I drive and everything warms up it get easier to shift. Also, I notice if I leave my hand on the shifter as I let off the gas, I feel a rhythmically tapping on the shifter.

Any thoughts?

More synchronized shifts will help. DO NOT FORCE SHIFTS. The synchronizers are trying very hard to match up gear/shaft speeds through cold oil. If it will not downshift readily, try putting transmission in neutral with your foot OFF the clutch, rev engine a bit, clutch back in and complete your shift.
Colin

chitwnvw · Post by **chitwnvw** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 6:52 am

I'm trying to take your advice to heart, and with some patience it can usually be coaxed into gear. This gets me some honks from behind (never noticed what a rush everyone is in). It is 15-20 degrees warmer and I'm sure that has something to do it's new found compliance.

Is this something that the trans refresh article on ratwells site might help?

Post by **Amskeptic** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 10:09 am

chitwnvw wrote: (never noticed what a rush everyone is in
Is this something that the trans refresh article on ratwells site might help?

That rush is looking more and more distracted
and meaningless to me every damn day.

Allow that your transmission has work to do that is more difficult when cold. If the transmission is also difficult to shift when the engine is off and the clutch is in, then you are dealing with selector parts issues, from the stop plate plate just under the gear shift all the way to the interlock assembly inside the nose cone. But if it is only hard to select your gear when driving, you are dealing with potential clutch disengagement, cold trans oil (try Redline Synthetic), and aforementioned coordination assist.
Colin

DjEep · Post by **DjEep** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 9:06 pm

Viva la Double Clutch!

Emily's Owner · Post by **Emily's Owner** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 1:38 pm

I'm experiencing a major forcing/shift issue on my '74. I had a new clutch put in a few months ago, and everything was just dandy. about a month ago, a gently grind ("grunch") going into 3rd was noticed (I adjusted by being gentle on this gear). Now, every gear is incredibly difficult to get into - and I'm going to bust something or get seriously stuck if I keep pushing the issue - I've done the search, but being mechanically challenged (getting better though) - what do I check first?

chitwnvw · Post by **chitwnvw** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 2:31 pm

I've heard switching to a nice synthetic trans fluid will help some things. I didn't get to this before my transmission went to a better place.

Ratwell describes a problem going into 3 and 4 likely being caused by:

Chances are that you don't have a problem with the shift rod but instead the shift ball inside the nose cone has distintegrated.

Mine looked fine. You'd need to unbolt the engine from it support bracket and remove the two bolts that hold the trans to the frame, so that you move the trans back enough to remove the nose cone. (Or drop the engine and trans and then work on it.)

Or your trans could be toast, mine was. When you drain your trans fluid examine the magnetic plug and the drained fluid for signs that something went horribly wrong. I found chunks of metal. (Warning remove the filler plug first to make sure you don't drain your fluid, and then can't refill it.)

Good luck.

vwlover77 · Post by **vwlover77** » Sun Jan 07, 2007 7:06 am

Emily's Owner wrote:what do I check first?

First, as Colin said, do you have the problem with the engine off and the clutch in? If so, " then you are dealing with selector parts issues, from the stop plate plate just under the gear shift all the way to the interlock assembly inside the nose cone", to quote Colin.

If it's only a problem when driving, the first and easiset thing to check would be the clutch cable adjustment. If there's too much play/slop/stretch in the cable, it will not fully disengage the clutch which will make shifting difficult.

Emily's Owner · Post by **Emily's Owner** » Sun Jan 07, 2007 4:28 pm

I went out and checked the clutch with the engine off. It easily moves through the gears without effort - I assume I can access the cable/wingnut without having to jack up the front of the bus, I can just wiggle my way up to adjust it, no? I was hoping it wasn't anything tranny associated - there's not many miles on this one....

Westy78 · Post by **Westy78** » Sun Jan 07, 2007 5:32 pm

Emily's Owner wrote:I went out and checked the clutch with the engine off. It easily moves through the gears without effort - I assume I can access the cable/wingnut without having to jack up the front of the bus, I can just wiggle my way up to adjust it, no? I was hoping it wasn't anything tranny associated - there's not many miles on this one....

Cable adjustment is done at the tranny end. Wiggle away but I always like to put the bus up on ramps for a little more room but you can do it without. Get a pair of vice grips on the cable end to keep it from spinning and tighten the wing nut till you have about 1" of free play at the pedal before you can feel resistance.

Emily's Owner · Post by **Emily's Owner** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 1:50 pm

Yippee, I did it, shifts like butteh now

...

Itinerant Air-Cooled

Itinerant Air-Cooled

Hard To Shift When Cold

Hard To Shift When Cold

Re: Hard to shift