heater box alternative
-
- I'm New!
- Status: Offline
heater box alternative
Yeah so my exhaust heater boxes have long passed their actual 'heating' purpose. The box around what i assume looks more like a header is loose, rusty and collects oil and grime. Has anyone ever removed these boxes and reinstalled the 'inner pipes' in their simpler form? picture? I have been considering doing this and perhaps giving them a fiberglass tape wrap. They cant get much worse looking and that may keep some heat down. I recently bought a stock muffler and tail pipe to install, and would like to be able to use that. Alternativly has anyone ever found a heater box replacement header? Im not concerned about keeping any heating functions.
-steve - 73 bus
- chitwnvw
- Resident Troublemaker
- Location: Chicago.
- Status: Offline
I know it is Colin's belief that the heater boxes actually were part of the exhaust cooling system, that air was being forced over very hot exhaust header for a purpose other than to provide us anemic heat, and as such are integral to the vehicles well being and lively hood. That said, I have seen exhaust headers stripped of the heater boxes and they seemed just fine. But then I've seen buses without the engine seal, various tin and loads without thermostats...I'd say it is your call on how you want to ride.
- sped372
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Waunakee, WI
- Status: Offline
My understanding has been that a fully complete, leak-free system is best. The heater boxes help cool the front-most cylinders a bit.
If you can't go that route next best is J-tubes. Under no circumstances should you keep the heat-exchangers but remove the tubes from the fan shroud to the exchangers. You'll just end up with extra hot exchangers directly under your heads (not good!).
If you can't go that route next best is J-tubes. Under no circumstances should you keep the heat-exchangers but remove the tubes from the fan shroud to the exchangers. You'll just end up with extra hot exchangers directly under your heads (not good!).
1971 Karmann Ghia - 1600 DP
1984 Westfalia - 1.9 WBX
1984 Westfalia - 1.9 WBX
- Vdubtech
- IAC Addict!
- Location: East Syracuse, NY
- Status: Offline
Very true.sped372 wrote:My understanding has been that a fully complete, leak-free system is best. The heater boxes help cool the front-most cylinders a bit.
That doesn't even make sense. Have you seen what lurks inside a heater box? It's basically a j tube with some aluminum fins on it to help dissipate the heat. Removing the outer shell is essentially the same as a set of j tubes, especially if you removed the fins. I would always recommend especially on a T4 system to keep the stock heat exchangers in place and functional to help with cooling but if your heart is set on removing the outer shells, by all means....go for it.sped372 wrote:If you can't go that route next best is J-tubes. Under no circumstances should you keep the heat-exchangers but remove the tubes from the fan shroud to the exchangers. You'll just end up with extra hot exchangers directly under your heads (not good!).
My '79 Westy Rebuild Thread:
http://itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?t=6073
http://itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?t=6073
-
- I'm New!
- Status: Offline
Thanks for the input guys. Like i said, my boxes are a mess. Im sure a removel and nice under engine cleaning would be helpful. I did put the header wrap on the pipes of my motorcycle, and they defintily reduce the temp to the touch. Im thinking that should be helpful on any air cooled engine. If it traps water and tends to rot them,like ive heard they may, then hey they are pretty much done with already, ill snap a few photos when i do it
-steve - 73 bus
- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
- Status: Offline
The confusion in this thread I think is stemming from Type1/Type 4 crosstalk. The Type 4 exchangers cool both front and rear cylinders equally.sped372 wrote:If you don't remove the fins you have a larger thermal mass soaking up and storing heat.Vdubtech wrote:especially if you removed the fins
The mass of the fins serves heat conduction just fine. Any spiky load applied to the engine will be drawn out by the mass of the exchanger metal with the fins serving as additional heat transfer to the surrounding air. If the jackets are missing, the mass will never get ahead of the engine as far as storing heat, the Delta T is just too great. If the jackets were on, and the cooling air were entirely blocked and the car run up a long hill in 4th gear on a hot day, THEN we're talking problems.
This whole heat exchanger-as cooling-device people get their heads wrapped around the principle and then hug it to death. Really, it is only a deeply critical thing up at the extreme temperatures and loads where VW had to apply every trick in the book to keep those valves/seats intact.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
-
- I'm New!
- Status: Offline
Hmm so let me see, the heat exchangers helped as cooling assuming the heater fan was still installed in the engine bay, and assuming the heater fan tubes blowing through the engine tin were not just replaced with tape covering the holes?
And no towing up a long hill in fourth gear at 47 miles an hour?
muahahha, off they come
And no towing up a long hill in fourth gear at 47 miles an hour?
muahahha, off they come
-steve - 73 bus
- chitwnvw
- Resident Troublemaker
- Location: Chicago.
- Status: Offline