Lost my head

Trotsky · Post by **Trotsky** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 9:29 am

Driving home from the firehouse on Sunday morning I heard the bang, felt the loss of power and heard the loud chugging noise that has become all too familiar for me lately.

For the third time in a year I have blown #1 spark plug out of the cylinder head on my 77 westy. First time I put an insert in and it lasted a few weeks before going out again. Last time I had Trafton do it for me and it lasted for several months. Now I need a new head since I am not able to put in any more inserts.

I have a few questions for all the helpfuls out there:

*Do I have to replace both heads or can I get away with doing one?

*Do they come ready to bolt on or do they need additional tinkering before I bolt to the engine and re-install?

*Where do I buy them from? Keeping in mind I don't want to have to sell my kids to pay for them.

*What could be causing the plug to keep blowing?

Thanks in advance

hambone · Post by **hambone** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 9:32 am

Check the fancypants build thread, this has been discussed in length lately.
I'd say you have metal fatigue on the head. I'd replace it.
You only need to replace one side.

pj · Post by pj » Thu Feb 04, 2010 10:44 am

Three times in a year? Man that sucks, hope you can find the head you need to get back on the road.

dingo · Post by **dingo** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 12:22 pm

there should be someone in that town who can alum weld and then tap a new thread, no? yes, alum welding is a specialized artform, but its not rocket science

hambone · Post by **hambone** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 1:20 pm

Good point. Have you taken it to Hall's yet?

Trotsky · Post by **Trotsky** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 1:46 pm

Halls?

Haven't taken it anywhere. Drove it home about 5 miles after the bang and it has been on my driveway since. Been using my pickup to get to work and back since then.

Once I clear out the garage a bit I can pull the westy in and start pulling the engine.

What is Halls?

hambone · Post by **hambone** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 1:51 pm

The only decent VW machine shop in Portland, on NE Killingsworth. Lots of us have had work done there.

Trotsky · Post by **Trotsky** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 2:07 pm

So if i take the head off and run it up there they might be able to rebuild it for me instead of paying for a new one?

Apologies for my ignorance

Gypsie · Post by **Gypsie** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 2:15 pm

Might be able to. Have them tell you what they can do and weigh your pros and cons about fix vs replace. You can get an amc head from Halsey.

Once you have it off you can look around and see if the valves will tell you anything about the cylinder in question. How have valve adjustments been lately? Big changes in #1?

Personally, I would just plan on a swap out.

Trotsky · Post by **Trotsky** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 2:26 pm

Gypsie wrote:Might be able to. Have them tell you what they can do and weigh your pros and cons about fix vs replace. You can get an AMC head from Halsey.

Once you have it off you can look around and see if the valves will tell you anything about the cylinder in question. How have valve adjustments been lately? Big changes in #1?

Personally, I would just plan on a swap out.

Sounds like a plan. I will take the head up there and have them look at it once I get it all apart. I will take some pics so you guys to poke fun at my engine innards.

As for valve adjustments, I haven't done any in a while. Trafton gave it a tune up when they replaced the CAT and he never mentioned anything about valve adjustment issues. I have hydraulic lifters so not sure there is gonna be much to notice. Especially for a novice like me.

Gypsie · Post by **Gypsie** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 2:36 pm

The hydros will accommodate changes to the valve train without needing adjustment if things are changing a little, but they can still tell you a story when it comes to what's happening.

Once you set them at 1 1/2 to 2 turns in you can check them later (say 500-1000 miles) by counting how may turns it takes to get them back to the starting point. If you don't know what I mean, then I recommend you come out to a "Lab Monday" so's we can chat.

Even though hydros are good for 'set it n ferget it" they are still decent indicators for valve train wear.

Once you have done a few valve adjustments you will find it is no harder than spark plug changing and it may become part of your tune up procedure.

bretski · Post by **bretski** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 6:28 pm

Gypsie wrote:Even though hydros are good for 'set it n ferget it" they are still decent indicators for valve train wear.

Gypsie, Gypsie, Gypsie....tsk. "Set it n ferget it" has no place in the ACVW lexicon, neither solids or nor hydros.

I know the good-natured place you're coming from, and I know you'll show Trotsky how easy it is to adjust hydraulic valves once he joins you all for a pint and rap at the Lab. I just don't want somebody to come upon this thread at a later date and read it as a perpetuation of the myth that hydraulic valves don't need regular adjustment.

Hugs and kisses from frozen Colorado,
-B

Bleyseng · Post by **Bleyseng** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 7:09 pm

I don't even like the idea of fixing just one head. Unless they are fairly low mile heads that just one plug got stripped out, I would take em both in. Unless you are totally cash strapped....

Gypsie · Post by **Gypsie** » Fri Feb 05, 2010 12:56 pm

bretski wrote: Gypsie, Gypsie, Gypsie....tsk. "Set it n ferget it" has no place in the ACVW lexicon, neither solids or nor hydros.

Yes. Agreed. Duly noted. thank you sir may I have another..

What I should have said was:
Even though hydros are purportedly good for 'set it n ferget it" they are still decent indicators for valve train wear and should be checked regularly.

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Lost my head

Lost my head