Leaky Pushrod Tubes

[dhoch14]

6k on my rebuild and I'm starting to notice quite the leaky pushrod tube seals. Not all seals leak, maybe 3 or 4 of them. Of course they leak onto my nice freshly painted and installed heater boxes. Maybe it's the burning oil I'm smelling with winter driving, but I don't have any confidence the new seals will hold.

Green o-rings w/o any sealant were used before. Mr Colin explained that a sealant should not be used as you want the tubes to be able to slightly move.

What is the consensus on the best method for replacing the pushrod tube seals?

[fancy pants]

The key, as I understand it, is to go nice and slow so that you don't pinch the seals. You said yours were green seals - I believe one end should be red and the other green. They are different. And I think I may have used a drop of oil on each seal to help it slide into place without pinching.

[Amskeptic]

6k on my rebuild and I'm starting to notice quite the leaky pushrod tube seals. Not all seals leak, maybe 3 or 4 of them. Of course they leak onto my nice freshly painted and installed heater boxes. Maybe it's the burning oil I'm smelling with winter driving, but I don't have any confidence the new seals will hold.

Green o-rings w/o any sealant were used before. Mr Colin explained that a sealant should not be used as you want the tubes to be able to slightly move.

What is the consensus on the best method for replacing the pushrod tube seals?

Use the brown Viton. You are suffering the bane of the green seals. They don't like cold after a hot summer. Cleanliness is critical, and the shape of the seals' grooves is critical too, any squished ends from bashing them into place, must be straightened.
Colin

[vdubzen]

never seen green seals. i normally use the orange ones, but the last engine rebuild, they sent me white ones.

[fancy pants]

Mine were green on one end, orange on the other

[Westy78]

Permatex pipe thread sealant. Seals any small nicks in the seals that may occur while installing the tubes and stays supple (doesn't dry completely) to allow the tubes/seals to move during expansion and contraction. Not a drop from mine in nearly 10k miles so far.

[dhoch14]

correction: I double checked my seals and they are red not green. doh.

Westy78 I have heard of permatex pipe thread sealant before. I think that is what Raby uses.

Guess I'm going to have to take out the valve train and give it a new go.

[hiwaycallin]

Use the brown Viton. You are suffering the bane of the green seals. ...
Colin

Uh oh, I just got these (not installed yet). You mean these are the ones that are no good?

[vdubyah73]

try twisting the pushrod tubes in place before you tear into it. mine leaked for a bit after the rebuild. mentor wally suggested twisting them in place, settles the seals again. cleaned up the area with a can of brakecleaner, so it was dry, and I could see continued leaking easily. fixed for the price of a can of brakecleaner and the time to r/r the tin. use pliers or vice grips if you have to, just don't bend the tube. doesn't take much to make them turn on a recently assembled engine.

[Amskeptic]

Use the brown Viton. You are suffering the bane of the green seals. ...
Colin

Uh oh, I just got these (not installed yet). You mean these are the ones that are no good?

I am not going to say conclusively. You would have to ask Scott if they are actual Viton now offered in fresh spring pastel green!
I do know that the Victor Reintz gasket kit seals are green and very unlikely to be Viton. My green seals that let go in October in Saint Louis in 2003 were Victor Reintz supplied. I only replaced the leaky one, and got another 100,000 miles out of the others.
Colin

[Bleyseng]

I have used both green and brown (viton) seals but the best results have been with using the Permatex white thread sealant Jake sells. Yup, no leaks from the pushrod tubes anymore...still have to fix that rear seal, but I am not pulling the motor with only one arm.

[Mark]

I might be the only one who does this, but I like to take a bit of time and polish the pushrod tube ends in where the seals rides against. I don't use any sealant, just a little oil for installation. The seals are the Viton ones that Scott sells and are green.

[Gypsie]

I also like to prep the case side holes with some emery cloth to take down any sharp edges from machining the holes. (kinda round over the sharp shoulders), lube with moly and then rotate as the tube is seated. Gives the seals a chance to get in with out being pinched.

Which side is leaking: case or head? Likely case side, that seems to be the most likely place for seal pinching.

[Amskeptic]

I also like to prep the case side holes with some emery cloth to take down any sharp edges from machining the holes. (kinda round over the sharp shoulders), lube with moly and then rotate as the tube is seated. Gives the seals a chance to get in with out being pinched.

Which side is leaking: case or head? Likely case side, that seems to be the most likely place for seal pinching.

May I respectfully scream in panic please.
Do not let emery cloth anywhere near the opened case holes. Nonponononononono, no. Grit can easily score and destroy, and fall down the drain slots in each hole. Just use a paper towel or lintless cloth soaked with GumOut.
Thank-you,
Colin

[Westy78]

I also like to prep the case side holes with some emery cloth to take down any sharp edges from machining the holes. (kinda round over the sharp shoulders), lube with moly and then rotate as the tube is seated. Gives the seals a chance to get in with out being pinched.

Which side is leaking: case or head? Likely case side, that seems to be the most likely place for seal pinching.

May I respectfully scream in panic please.
Do not let emery cloth anywhere near the opened case holes. Nonponononononono, no. Grit can easily score and destroy, and fall down the drain slots in each hole. Just use a paper towel or lintless cloth soaked with GumOut.
Thank-you,
Colin

What about during a rebuild as prep before the case is sealed though? Followed by copious cleaning and rinsing.